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cacatation

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just insalled the solars prop on my 04 RXP and from a dead stop i get cavatation
but if im movin slow she grabs and gos anyone no whats up with that??
 
ya had to rubber mailit the new ring in and the prop fit is amazingly close but not scraping bigjake where is this seal, I screwed the green colar into the prop witch
the drive shaft goes into where did i go wrong?
 
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...em/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=18&A=118&B=12&Action=O

the carbon ring is part #40. The pressure of the bellows #41 creates a seal between the carbon ring and the Stainless Steel ring #34. If the carbon seal is worn, you will suck air into the pump. For a quick test, you can put a film of waterproof grease between the carbon ring and the SS ring to see if it improves the seal and solves your problem. The grease is not real good for the carbon seal ring so just use it for a quick test and wipe it off. You can also put a zip tie around the bellows to increase the pressure between the carbon ring and SS ring but again too much presssure will cause premature wearing of the carbon ring. If the carbon ring shows to be the problem, some people have put a shim (like a thin washer) between the thru hull fitting and the bellows to get a better seal and get a little more use out of the carbon ring before replacing.

Be aware that the seal between the Carbon ring and Stainless Steel ring is keeping water from leaking into the hull. the bellows fills with water to cool the carbon ring when the ski is in the water. if the ring wears too much and leaks, it can sink your ski in minutes.
 
bingo now i see, is it better to just replace the carbon and ss seal???
is it a big job, and do i go through the grate or through the pump area or both???
how much $$$ and is the air coming from inside the hull?? thanks bigjake
 
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you just replace the carbon seal. You pull the pump, then the drive shaft slides out. yes, if the carbon seal is worn it sucks air from inside the hull.
before removing the pump, you have to pull back on the carbon seal so you can remove the c-clip from the driveshaft that holds the SS ring in place. If you click on PARTS above the carbon ring is $73.49. Be careful not to lose the rubber bumpers on each end of the drive shaft when you pull it. Takes about an hour. I would do the waterproof grease test to verify the carbon ring is the problem first.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=118&B=12
 
are you sayin theres a rubber chunk in between the drive shaft and prop
one never went back in never saw one come out :toetap05:
 
good news, thanks for taking the time and showing me the ropes
I guess if i have to take it apart to try the grease thing
ill just put one in and call it a day
 
you don't have to take it apart for the grease test. simply pull back on the carbon ring (ie compressing the bellows). it's a little hard to pull back but you should be able to get enough separation betweein the carbon ring and the SS Ring to smear some grease on
 
from inside the hull, I'm not familiar with your ski but there is likely a plastic cover over the driveshaft held on with 2 wingnuts, remove the cover and you have access to the carbon seal
 
You will have the rubber seal retaining clip around the shaft bearing to remove, I have done the very same job copious amounts of time, word of advise, when you complete the job check for engine oil leak at the shaft bearing.
 
Is there a chance of disturbing this area causing a leak
or just a good time to look things over?
also just got a bug yesterday as to painting my ski so I ripped
here limb from limb how do you post pics on here?
every thing from the bumper strip up is gone minus handlebars
lookin at a 2011 viper red paint job but a white upper hull
and a cool seat i saw on ebay :D
 
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