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Bowser's WaveRunner
- Thread starter Bowser
- Start date
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I seen this posting on Marketplace and it reminded me of you @Bowser . After looking at the machines in your thread, I think this one is different, but anyways I thought the graphics they must have put on this, made it look pretty good.
I seen this posting on Marketplace and it reminded me of you @Bowser . After looking at the machines in your thread, I think this one is different, but anyways I thought the graphics they must have put on this, made it look pretty good.
Bowser
Active Member
Bought a replacement exhaust manifold guide since my original piece had severe corrosion. First time seeing the flush port has a cap installed over it? The other three (LOL) WR's I've tinkered on all had tubing coming out of this port. I guess this is the OEM set up- I hope the hose adapter I bought fits in there...
Aside though this replacement piece is pretty mint. Hoping to get some time this wknd to prep it for install..
@burtshaver2021 That livery does look nice! I'll keep it in mind. Especially like handles on the rear of the seat.
Aside though this replacement piece is pretty mint. Hoping to get some time this wknd to prep it for install..
@burtshaver2021 That livery does look nice! I'll keep it in mind. Especially like handles on the rear of the seat.
Bowser
Active Member
Motor back in the hull!
Fit in super smooth, just need to tidy up the connections.
I took note of the shims used when I pulled out the motor originally from the first WR. However I don't know for sure if that shim-set up will work 100% for this new installation since it's in a different hull with different mounts..
This hull is a WR500"F" model and I had bought a rubber dampener that the parts catalogue says is for the "G" models but I think it'd still work here too.
Fit in super smooth, just need to tidy up the connections.
I took note of the shims used when I pulled out the motor originally from the first WR. However I don't know for sure if that shim-set up will work 100% for this new installation since it's in a different hull with different mounts..
This hull is a WR500"F" model and I had bought a rubber dampener that the parts catalogue says is for the "G" models but I think it'd still work here too.
I’ve removed the shims before, kept track of number and location with no problem, but if replacing with a different engine and new motor mounts I would definitely be using an alignment tool. In a Seadoo anyways, never worked on a Yamaha
Bowser
Active Member
Got it running!!
Took some coercion with dribbles of fuel in the cylinders but once the tubes got primed it would start up nearly every time.
No more exhaust leaks either.
Need to take it to the river and fine-tune the carb screws while it sits on the trailer but MAN I'M HAPPY.
Took some coercion with dribbles of fuel in the cylinders but once the tubes got primed it would start up nearly every time.
No more exhaust leaks either.
Need to take it to the river and fine-tune the carb screws while it sits on the trailer but MAN I'M HAPPY.
That’s great, I know the excitement you are feeling. Good job 
Bowser
Active Member
Thanks! 
Also in wanting to make sure everything's proper before really testing on the water.. . does this sound like a failed bearing in the driveshaft coupler?
There's no play at all in that section. I can't really hear it when the motor is running either- sounds like rubber rubbing against something with slight resistance to being spun whenever it rubs. Yay. Noise is only limited to the thru-hull driveshaft and not the engine. It made this sound before I installed the motor (which sounds great btw no issues)
Also also the gas tank does not seem to be depressurizing right. There's a check valve and some tubing coming out if it I think may be the culprit. I can tell when unscrewing the gas cap air is rushing out which I do not think is normal.
Also in wanting to make sure everything's proper before really testing on the water.. . does this sound like a failed bearing in the driveshaft coupler?
There's no play at all in that section. I can't really hear it when the motor is running either- sounds like rubber rubbing against something with slight resistance to being spun whenever it rubs. Yay. Noise is only limited to the thru-hull driveshaft and not the engine. It made this sound before I installed the motor (which sounds great btw no issues)
Also also the gas tank does not seem to be depressurizing right. There's a check valve and some tubing coming out if it I think may be the culprit. I can tell when unscrewing the gas cap air is rushing out which I do not think is normal.
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You got it, the check valve that allows air to escape from the fuel tank isn’t working. You could try spraying it with simple green, then clean water and mild compressed air. If that doesn’t work I would think a pressure relief valve for a Seadoo would work. As for the noise, I have no idea what it is your doing there in the video, sorry
Bowser
Active Member
Right on. I'll work on cleaning it before replacement of the check valve.
- The sound in the video is coming from me manually turning the crank shaft by hand.
Since this video I've lubed it more but it still makes the noise. . I THINK it'd be ok to test on the water still despite the noise.
- The sound in the video is coming from me manually turning the crank shaft by hand.
Since this video I've lubed it more but it still makes the noise. . I THINK it'd be ok to test on the water still despite the noise.
Bowser
Active Member
SO the gas tank check valve appears to be working right. Let's air in one way but not the other. I used compressed air to blow out the tube it's connected to etc. and air rushes out ok.
Now what I can't figure out is if the air pressure whoosh I hear when I open the gas cap is a normal amount. I guess this is just situation normal for it to have some pressure release when opening.
There's an arrow next to the word "Tank" on the check valve that I'm assuming tells me to point the arrow towards the tank to let air IN.
Now what I can't figure out is if the air pressure whoosh I hear when I open the gas cap is a normal amount. I guess this is just situation normal for it to have some pressure release when opening.
There's an arrow next to the word "Tank" on the check valve that I'm assuming tells me to point the arrow towards the tank to let air IN.
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Bowser
Active Member
Uploaded a quick vid of the motor running on the trailer when I first got it going.
Since this video I cleaned the vent check valve + tube. Also replaced the pre-carb fuel filter. When I went to turn over the engine after maintenance on the these two parts it started up immediately.
Though now having some difficulty since then with keeping it running, I figure it is just some air in the lines.
I really want to get it in the water on the trailer to test it longer than 6 - 7 seconds each go. Should be able to this wknd.
Since this video I cleaned the vent check valve + tube. Also replaced the pre-carb fuel filter. When I went to turn over the engine after maintenance on the these two parts it started up immediately.
Though now having some difficulty since then with keeping it running, I figure it is just some air in the lines.
I really want to get it in the water on the trailer to test it longer than 6 - 7 seconds each go. Should be able to this wknd.
Good luck, fingers crossed
Bowser
Active Member
Success! !
Finally got a free hour to trailer the ski to the water. Started right up no issues, made sure everything was tight, then hopped on for a test ride !!
Felt great overall. No more leaking exhaust into the hull. Throttle control was good and somewhat responsive. It would get up on plane pretty easy and had a bit of oomph to it too
I did not reach WOT since I didn't wanna push my luck on the first outing. Now to get it registered and get back out on the water!
Woohoo! !
Bowser
Active Member
Few brief test runs later and it's starting up and running well as far as I can tell. Reaches WOT without much issue, definitely need to tune the high/low screws. The hull of this ski is so flat and easy to slide across the water. 
The steering cable has been giving me some trouble though- ski will turn right properly but not left. Jet nozzle seems to go to the right side fully but not the left.. I'm thinking there's some fine adjustment I can do.
Worse so, I was wondering how extra water was finding its way into the hull... took another look today and saw water was hemorrhaging in through the steering cable pass thru.. woo. hoo.
Previous owner fumbled the steering cable replacement in more than one way.. grrr. Only way to address it is to remove the ride plate and check out the grommet.
Over all still a win in my books haha
The steering cable has been giving me some trouble though- ski will turn right properly but not left. Jet nozzle seems to go to the right side fully but not the left.. I'm thinking there's some fine adjustment I can do.
Worse so, I was wondering how extra water was finding its way into the hull... took another look today and saw water was hemorrhaging in through the steering cable pass thru.. woo. hoo.
Previous owner fumbled the steering cable replacement in more than one way.. grrr. Only way to address it is to remove the ride plate and check out the grommet.
Over all still a win in my books haha
That’s great news, This Yamaha will run forever to, almost thereFew brief test runs later and it's starting up and running well as far as I can tell. Reaches WOT without much issue, definitely need to tune the high/low screws. The hull of this ski is so flat and easy to slide across the water.
The steering cable has been giving me some trouble though- ski will turn right properly but not left. Jet nozzle seems to go to the right side fully but not the left.. I'm thinking there's some fine adjustment I can do.
Worse so, I was wondering how extra water was finding its way into the hull... took another look today and saw water was hemorrhaging in through the steering cable pass thru.. woo. hoo.
Previous owner fumbled the steering cable replacement in more than one way.. grrr. Only way to address it is to remove the ride plate and check out the grommet.
Over all still a win in my books haha
Bowser
Active Member
I’ve had a handful of successful, brief, outings with the ski. Even captured some footage with my GoPro -
In the start of the clip I turned the idle speed screw down some, I'm not sure how much more lower of an idle it should go though since the carb has an aftermarket intake if that matters for engine longevity here.
I’ve been riding solely with the fuel selector valve on Reserve in case there’s not enough fuel in the tank since I’m only doing a gallon or two at a time. Last ride I toyed with the valve to get the fuel flowing through the normal "On" pathway but the motor kept cutting out likely due to no fuel in that part of the line. I tested this three times without any luck getting the fuel to flow through the On lines.. maybe still has air in them or a blockage..
Also still stumped by its inability to turn left. The fine tune adjustments have been as far adjusted as possible which leads me to believe the steering cable that had been replaced may not be the right part. Hard to tell since there’s no number stamped along the side of it..
I must have been trippin’ when I thought I saw water gushing in around the steering cable thru-hull too. Maybe water was coming in before adjusting the cable better.. I don’t know but it sure looks sealed now. lol.
Awaiting the DMV’s cert of title and registration in the mail.
I installed a rope hole on the bow, one from a different Yamaha since I liked the full circle style of the grommet instead of the original. A lil’ elbow grease and hydrogen peroxide bath made a good glow up for the plastic. Replaced the OEM handlebar grips pretty easily too.
First time putting the engine on the yard hose went well. I ran it for 50 seconds or so, everything sounded/ looked good just loud with the hood open and engine on.
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Note for WR500 owners in the future- Atlantis Hose Adapter part numbers 8588 and 8589 are the proper adapters for this model. Using a brass hose barb with a M8 1.25 pitch screw on the end if you want to DIY your own adapter for the wash port.
In the start of the clip I turned the idle speed screw down some, I'm not sure how much more lower of an idle it should go though since the carb has an aftermarket intake if that matters for engine longevity here.
I’ve been riding solely with the fuel selector valve on Reserve in case there’s not enough fuel in the tank since I’m only doing a gallon or two at a time. Last ride I toyed with the valve to get the fuel flowing through the normal "On" pathway but the motor kept cutting out likely due to no fuel in that part of the line. I tested this three times without any luck getting the fuel to flow through the On lines.. maybe still has air in them or a blockage..
Also still stumped by its inability to turn left. The fine tune adjustments have been as far adjusted as possible which leads me to believe the steering cable that had been replaced may not be the right part. Hard to tell since there’s no number stamped along the side of it..
I must have been trippin’ when I thought I saw water gushing in around the steering cable thru-hull too. Maybe water was coming in before adjusting the cable better.. I don’t know but it sure looks sealed now. lol.
Awaiting the DMV’s cert of title and registration in the mail.
I installed a rope hole on the bow, one from a different Yamaha since I liked the full circle style of the grommet instead of the original. A lil’ elbow grease and hydrogen peroxide bath made a good glow up for the plastic. Replaced the OEM handlebar grips pretty easily too.
First time putting the engine on the yard hose went well. I ran it for 50 seconds or so, everything sounded/ looked good just loud with the hood open and engine on.
-
Note for WR500 owners in the future- Atlantis Hose Adapter part numbers 8588 and 8589 are the proper adapters for this model. Using a brass hose barb with a M8 1.25 pitch screw on the end if you want to DIY your own adapter for the wash port.
Bowser
Active Member
The WR500 is now titled & registered!
I submitted an application to title the ski and received the registration number last week ! Had to jump through a few hoops to prove my attempt to contact the previous owner but it all worked fine- just paperwork.
So how much did it take to get this Yamaha running?
1.62 replacement nuts for the carb studs
28.5 for Mikuni needle & seat size 2.5 for the 34mm body
38.47 for carb kit Mikuni BN34
14.81 Safety lanyard
14.19 Carb base gaskets
43.87 for Prok 2.75” flame arrester
12.95 for Pre-filter Prok
65 for mechanic’s removal of PTO coupler from shank
26 for impeller spline tool
23.16 exhaust gasket silencer 6K8-14755-A1-00
15.53 gasket upper casing (the leak spot) 689-45113-01-00
94.29 motor mounts, shims, bolts
12.45 Liqui Moly Marine Grease for drive shaft splines
7 gasket maker copper RTV
62.18 for replacement exhaust guide assembly
= $460
and to title / register it:
42 for title and registration app fees
20.7 for shipping to confirm PO has no title
16.85 to mail to Dept. Wildlife Resources
= $80
This was well worth the effort and investment
The ski itself didn’t have an exact price since the motor is from my first, free WR500 and the hull was from a bundled sale with another WR500 + boat trailer. So maybe ~$100 MAX for the ski..
_ _ _ _
Over the winter I plan to replace the steering cable and make some cosmetic repairs.
Intention is set to re-focus back to the 1995 SPX motor replacement too since this right here was a success
Ya boy is PROUD
I submitted an application to title the ski and received the registration number last week ! Had to jump through a few hoops to prove my attempt to contact the previous owner but it all worked fine- just paperwork.
So how much did it take to get this Yamaha running?
1.62 replacement nuts for the carb studs
28.5 for Mikuni needle & seat size 2.5 for the 34mm body
38.47 for carb kit Mikuni BN34
14.81 Safety lanyard
14.19 Carb base gaskets
43.87 for Prok 2.75” flame arrester
12.95 for Pre-filter Prok
65 for mechanic’s removal of PTO coupler from shank
26 for impeller spline tool
23.16 exhaust gasket silencer 6K8-14755-A1-00
15.53 gasket upper casing (the leak spot) 689-45113-01-00
94.29 motor mounts, shims, bolts
12.45 Liqui Moly Marine Grease for drive shaft splines
7 gasket maker copper RTV
62.18 for replacement exhaust guide assembly
= $460
and to title / register it:
42 for title and registration app fees
20.7 for shipping to confirm PO has no title
16.85 to mail to Dept. Wildlife Resources
= $80
This was well worth the effort and investment
The ski itself didn’t have an exact price since the motor is from my first, free WR500 and the hull was from a bundled sale with another WR500 + boat trailer. So maybe ~$100 MAX for the ski..
_ _ _ _
Over the winter I plan to replace the steering cable and make some cosmetic repairs.
Intention is set to re-focus back to the 1995 SPX motor replacement too since this right here was a success
Ya boy is PROUD
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