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Bowser's WaveRunner
- Thread starter Bowser
- Start date
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I seen this posting on Marketplace and it reminded me of you @Bowser . After looking at the machines in your thread, I think this one is different, but anyways I thought the graphics they must have put on this, made it look pretty good.
I seen this posting on Marketplace and it reminded me of you @Bowser . After looking at the machines in your thread, I think this one is different, but anyways I thought the graphics they must have put on this, made it look pretty good.
Bowser
Active Member
Bought a replacement exhaust manifold guide since my original piece had severe corrosion. First time seeing the flush port has a cap installed over it? The other three (LOL) WR's I've tinkered on all had tubing coming out of this port. I guess this is the OEM set up- I hope the hose adapter I bought fits in there...
Aside though this replacement piece is pretty mint. Hoping to get some time this wknd to prep it for install..
@burtshaver2021 That livery does look nice! I'll keep it in mind. Especially like handles on the rear of the seat.
Aside though this replacement piece is pretty mint. Hoping to get some time this wknd to prep it for install..
@burtshaver2021 That livery does look nice! I'll keep it in mind. Especially like handles on the rear of the seat.
Bowser
Active Member
Motor back in the hull!
Fit in super smooth, just need to tidy up the connections.
I took note of the shims used when I pulled out the motor originally from the first WR. However I don't know for sure if that shim-set up will work 100% for this new installation since it's in a different hull with different mounts..
This hull is a WR500"F" model and I had bought a rubber dampener that the parts catalogue says is for the "G" models but I think it'd still work here too.
Fit in super smooth, just need to tidy up the connections.
I took note of the shims used when I pulled out the motor originally from the first WR. However I don't know for sure if that shim-set up will work 100% for this new installation since it's in a different hull with different mounts..
This hull is a WR500"F" model and I had bought a rubber dampener that the parts catalogue says is for the "G" models but I think it'd still work here too.
I’ve removed the shims before, kept track of number and location with no problem, but if replacing with a different engine and new motor mounts I would definitely be using an alignment tool. In a Seadoo anyways, never worked on a Yamaha
Bowser
Active Member
Got it running!!
Took some coercion with dribbles of fuel in the cylinders but once the tubes got primed it would start up nearly every time.
No more exhaust leaks either.
Need to take it to the river and fine-tune the carb screws while it sits on the trailer but MAN I'M HAPPY.
Took some coercion with dribbles of fuel in the cylinders but once the tubes got primed it would start up nearly every time.
No more exhaust leaks either.
Need to take it to the river and fine-tune the carb screws while it sits on the trailer but MAN I'M HAPPY.
That’s great, I know the excitement you are feeling. Good job 
Bowser
Active Member
Thanks! 
Also in wanting to make sure everything's proper before really testing on the water.. . does this sound like a failed bearing in the driveshaft coupler?
There's no play at all in that section. I can't really hear it when the motor is running either- sounds like rubber rubbing against something with slight resistance to being spun whenever it rubs. Yay. Noise is only limited to the thru-hull driveshaft and not the engine. It made this sound before I installed the motor (which sounds great btw no issues)
Also also the gas tank does not seem to be depressurizing right. There's a check valve and some tubing coming out if it I think may be the culprit. I can tell when unscrewing the gas cap air is rushing out which I do not think is normal.
Also in wanting to make sure everything's proper before really testing on the water.. . does this sound like a failed bearing in the driveshaft coupler?
There's no play at all in that section. I can't really hear it when the motor is running either- sounds like rubber rubbing against something with slight resistance to being spun whenever it rubs. Yay. Noise is only limited to the thru-hull driveshaft and not the engine. It made this sound before I installed the motor (which sounds great btw no issues)
Also also the gas tank does not seem to be depressurizing right. There's a check valve and some tubing coming out if it I think may be the culprit. I can tell when unscrewing the gas cap air is rushing out which I do not think is normal.
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You got it, the check valve that allows air to escape from the fuel tank isn’t working. You could try spraying it with simple green, then clean water and mild compressed air. If that doesn’t work I would think a pressure relief valve for a Seadoo would work. As for the noise, I have no idea what it is your doing there in the video, sorry
Bowser
Active Member
Right on. I'll work on cleaning it before replacement of the check valve.
- The sound in the video is coming from me manually turning the crank shaft by hand.
Since this video I've lubed it more but it still makes the noise. . I THINK it'd be ok to test on the water still despite the noise.
- The sound in the video is coming from me manually turning the crank shaft by hand.
Since this video I've lubed it more but it still makes the noise. . I THINK it'd be ok to test on the water still despite the noise.
Bowser
Active Member
SO the gas tank check valve appears to be working right. Let's air in one way but not the other. I used compressed air to blow out the tube it's connected to etc. and air rushes out ok.
Now what I can't figure out is if the air pressure whoosh I hear when I open the gas cap is a normal amount. I guess this is just situation normal for it to have some pressure release when opening.
There's an arrow next to the word "Tank" on the check valve that I'm assuming tells me to point the arrow towards the tank to let air IN.
Now what I can't figure out is if the air pressure whoosh I hear when I open the gas cap is a normal amount. I guess this is just situation normal for it to have some pressure release when opening.
There's an arrow next to the word "Tank" on the check valve that I'm assuming tells me to point the arrow towards the tank to let air IN.
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Bowser
Active Member
Uploaded a quick vid of the motor running on the trailer when I first got it going.
Since this video I cleaned the vent check valve + tube. Also replaced the pre-carb fuel filter. When I went to turn over the engine after maintenance on the these two parts it started up immediately.
Though now having some difficulty since then with keeping it running, I figure it is just some air in the lines.
I really want to get it in the water on the trailer to test it longer than 6 - 7 seconds each go. Should be able to this wknd.
Since this video I cleaned the vent check valve + tube. Also replaced the pre-carb fuel filter. When I went to turn over the engine after maintenance on the these two parts it started up immediately.
Though now having some difficulty since then with keeping it running, I figure it is just some air in the lines.
I really want to get it in the water on the trailer to test it longer than 6 - 7 seconds each go. Should be able to this wknd.
Good luck, fingers crossed
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