Bowser
Active Member
BBird- that makes sense now, thank you. Looks like the P/N for the puller wrench holder is 290 876 080 per the SPX manual. I'll pick up a universal puller + M8 bolts. Will turn the bolts 5 rotations to prevent contact with the coils behind the flywheel & dab on anti-seize since I’ll need it for all three blown motors.
etemplet- I agree that removing and installing the motor is possible with my novice skillset. My biggest concern relates to the drive shaft; removing the impeller housing may be a bear and properly aligning it once all back together. I've removed the jet pump nozzle and am working on removing the carbs currently. I'll strip it down as far as I can so if the pro's are called in they can pop out the old 657x with ease.
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I tested the compression once more with a rental tool to confirm previous readings. Results were equivalent; engine is indeed toast.
etemplet- I agree that removing and installing the motor is possible with my novice skillset. My biggest concern relates to the drive shaft; removing the impeller housing may be a bear and properly aligning it once all back together. I've removed the jet pump nozzle and am working on removing the carbs currently. I'll strip it down as far as I can so if the pro's are called in they can pop out the old 657x with ease.
- - -
I tested the compression once more with a rental tool to confirm previous readings. Results were equivalent; engine is indeed toast.
Bowser
Active Member
Successfully popped the starter flywheels off the old spare motors.
Used a standard flywheel puller and a 30" breaker bar but got them stripped down for use as core exchange. The first attempt literally caught air and flew 6 inches off the 720 motor; my safety sandals weren't enough protection and the flywheel teeth left a comical imprint on my foot.
The generic puller is bent severely so I'll replace it before using on the Rotax still sitting in the SPX.
I'm waiting on the VA DMV for their response on assigning a new VIN for the trailer I repaired.. They said I was SOL without a VIN or previous title but I'm trying to register it as homemade and will have a new title issued if allowed. They had such a hard time understanding I checked every spot for the VIN with guidance from EZLoader and how it didn't come with a title; I tried explaining these are back-woods dealings and usually not kosher
Used a standard flywheel puller and a 30" breaker bar but got them stripped down for use as core exchange. The first attempt literally caught air and flew 6 inches off the 720 motor; my safety sandals weren't enough protection and the flywheel teeth left a comical imprint on my foot.
The generic puller is bent severely so I'll replace it before using on the Rotax still sitting in the SPX.
I'm waiting on the VA DMV for their response on assigning a new VIN for the trailer I repaired.. They said I was SOL without a VIN or previous title but I'm trying to register it as homemade and will have a new title issued if allowed. They had such a hard time understanding I checked every spot for the VIN with guidance from EZLoader and how it didn't come with a title; I tried explaining these are back-woods dealings and usually not kosher
Bowser
Active Member
Since rehashing the costs vs. difficulty with removing the Rotax I'm considering getting the process halfway started myself.
Removal of the motor should be straight forward enough with my skill set. Biggest concern is pulling off the jet pump.. hoping for any advice on what technique is best.
I found a video that depicts a DIY puller using a plank of wood and extended bolts threaded into the impeller housing bolt holes. This seems like my go-to choice but if there's a better method please advise!
Below is a screen shot of the DIY puller I intend to try if best.
I feel that pulling it off with straps or rope in the impeller vanes could possibly damage the vanes..
Removal of the motor should be straight forward enough with my skill set. Biggest concern is pulling off the jet pump.. hoping for any advice on what technique is best.
I found a video that depicts a DIY puller using a plank of wood and extended bolts threaded into the impeller housing bolt holes. This seems like my go-to choice but if there's a better method please advise!
Below is a screen shot of the DIY puller I intend to try if best.
I feel that pulling it off with straps or rope in the impeller vanes could possibly damage the vanes..
Bowser
Active Member
^^ haha yea to increase the torque on the flywheel wrench I used a curtain rod slid over the breaker bar.
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So in the interim I bought another EZLoader trailer. I had my eye on it at a neighbor’s house nearby and when they had a moving sale I tracked it down. Really the reason I wanted it was for the winch post and couldn’t pass up getting the entire trailer if the whole thing only cost $50. I was hoping to restore it easily since I have experience with my identical trailer but the wear ’n tear was too extensive so I cannibalized it. Day dreaming of reusing the axle and hubs with fat tires to make a dolly for easy put-in at the beach.
I retrieved it from the neighbor's with our golf cart and a jerry-rigged hitch.
The original trailer I properly restored now has a VIN which is a relief. Now I just need to have it ok’d by an LEO to get it titled & registered.
I opened up the carbs while prepping for motor removal. Unsurprisingly there was oily sludge in the pulse line that regurged from the crank case, yuck! Thankfully it didn’t circulate through the carbs and washed off with plenty of degreaser.
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So in the interim I bought another EZLoader trailer. I had my eye on it at a neighbor’s house nearby and when they had a moving sale I tracked it down. Really the reason I wanted it was for the winch post and couldn’t pass up getting the entire trailer if the whole thing only cost $50. I was hoping to restore it easily since I have experience with my identical trailer but the wear ’n tear was too extensive so I cannibalized it. Day dreaming of reusing the axle and hubs with fat tires to make a dolly for easy put-in at the beach.
I retrieved it from the neighbor's with our golf cart and a jerry-rigged hitch.
The original trailer I properly restored now has a VIN which is a relief. Now I just need to have it ok’d by an LEO to get it titled & registered.
I opened up the carbs while prepping for motor removal. Unsurprisingly there was oily sludge in the pulse line that regurged from the crank case, yuck! Thankfully it didn’t circulate through the carbs and washed off with plenty of degreaser.
Bowser
Active Member
Welp I got the quote to atleast remove the broken 657x out of the hull… $375 for a three hour service.
A bit steeper than I would like so I’ll continue mulling over DIY or another shop. It’s not a very technical task so maybe I can find a weekend mechanic that’ll do it for less.
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A bit of good news (finally); the trailer is now all registered & titled. That's a relief. Looking forward to getting the 'Doo on the bunks sitting pretty.
A bit steeper than I would like so I’ll continue mulling over DIY or another shop. It’s not a very technical task so maybe I can find a weekend mechanic that’ll do it for less.
_ _ _
A bit of good news (finally); the trailer is now all registered & titled. That's a relief. Looking forward to getting the 'Doo on the bunks sitting pretty.
Bowser
Active Member
^^ etemplet thank you for the inspiration. I will tackle it myself- I’m just stumped by the jet pump removal.
I fabbed a pump puller to winch off the jet pump BUT need to run this by the forums before trial:
These three tubes coming through the back of the hull, do they come out too? I removed the hoses attached as recommended but I just can’t believe they would also come out with the pump assembly? Wouldn’t that create a major leak point if they don’t install with a proper seal?
I’m just hoping for an answer of what to expect when I take a crack at the removal. I intend to bolt my puller to the four holes where the directional nozzle attached, hook a winch to the puller and slowly heat where the hull/pump meet while tightening the winch. The puller I made is a 1.5” thick piece of lumber with 4 holes drilled out the corners to match up to the four bolt holes surrounding the pump.
I fabbed a pump puller to winch off the jet pump BUT need to run this by the forums before trial:
These three tubes coming through the back of the hull, do they come out too? I removed the hoses attached as recommended but I just can’t believe they would also come out with the pump assembly? Wouldn’t that create a major leak point if they don’t install with a proper seal?
I’m just hoping for an answer of what to expect when I take a crack at the removal. I intend to bolt my puller to the four holes where the directional nozzle attached, hook a winch to the puller and slowly heat where the hull/pump meet while tightening the winch. The puller I made is a 1.5” thick piece of lumber with 4 holes drilled out the corners to match up to the four bolt holes surrounding the pump.
Spider4real
Active Member
Spider4real
Active Member
And yes it could leak if you dont properly seal it. I use a bit of silicone when reinstalling it. I also just pull the pump by hand. I have never needed a special puller tool to get the pump off. But I know some folks have had a hard time and needed to do what you describe. But before you go down that route I would just try pulling it off. You might get lucky.
Yep you got it !! I didn't make a pump puller. I just use some really short pray bars. I get one under the bolt and start to rock it back and forth. Some are really stuck. Generally because the RTV needed to seal those tubes make the pump difficult to remove. Take your time and be as gentle as you can. you'll have some clean up to do removing the RTV. This is my 1996 GTX 787 Engine.
Bowser
Active Member
I appreciate the pics & verification, both!
Now the ‘Doo is sitting on the EZLoader trailer. It looks so great- the trailer is a nice size for the ski, small footprint but robust design.
Winching off the jet pump will have to wait a bit longer- juggling lots of things as the year wraps up. I spoke with SBT briefly and they seem capable and communicative- I’m eager to send them my broken hunk of metal for a new motor.
Now the ‘Doo is sitting on the EZLoader trailer. It looks so great- the trailer is a nice size for the ski, small footprint but robust design.
Winching off the jet pump will have to wait a bit longer- juggling lots of things as the year wraps up. I spoke with SBT briefly and they seem capable and communicative- I’m eager to send them my broken hunk of metal for a new motor.
Good Luck !! One reason I won't do busines with SBT because of the Shipping Charges. I also don't like them being able to call a part unusable and then charging a core fee. I'm not knocking them but the cost of an engine can go up drastically from the quoted price. I think if I was local enough to drop off and pick up and engine... I'd sing a different tune LOL
Bowser
Active Member
Will def keep this in mind when shipping out the cores. I saw a post recently from a user in Clearwater and thought how nice it’d be, that close to the SBT HQ. lol
Best attempt was made to winch off the jet pump; I gave up when the force needed started lifting the ski off the trailer. Felt like anything would snap off or snap off & hit me.
This method seemed like it’d work but I guess the adhesive on the hull/housing is more than I’m capable of. SO I called the nearest power sports shop and they quoted me $130 for an hour of pump removal. Imma get another estimate from a PWC mechanic then just have one of 'em handle this step..
Motivation
Best attempt was made to winch off the jet pump; I gave up when the force needed started lifting the ski off the trailer. Felt like anything would snap off or snap off & hit me.
This method seemed like it’d work but I guess the adhesive on the hull/housing is more than I’m capable of. SO I called the nearest power sports shop and they quoted me $130 for an hour of pump removal. Imma get another estimate from a PWC mechanic then just have one of 'em handle this step..
Motivation
I've never not been able to remove the jet up and I don't have one of those tools. I have a couple of small 90 degree angle pry type bars that I get under the pump base and just rock it. Some have been a pain but but they come off. Check the threads for corrosion and build up. Shop or other mechanic isn't going to be better than you or more equipped with tools. Then they'll break it and still charge you. Good luck though.
JC-SUPERJET
Active Member
I've seen Washers stuck and corroded onto the Pump Mounting Studs.
A Pro Mechanic used a hole-saw type tool to bite into and rotate the Washers, to break-free and remove the Washers that were binding the Pump.
He used the Hammer function of the Drill to shock and break-up the corrosion binding the Washers.
After the Washers are out, then the Task becomes much easier.
A Pro Mechanic used a hole-saw type tool to bite into and rotate the Washers, to break-free and remove the Washers that were binding the Pump.
He used the Hammer function of the Drill to shock and break-up the corrosion binding the Washers.
After the Washers are out, then the Task becomes much easier.
Bowser
Active Member
Both suggestions are spot on, thank you.
The washers on the jet pump are indeed stuck/ corroded on. I was able to remove one easily but left the other three assuming they would pop off with the initial puller technique.
I'll take a crack at removing the washers. Any advice on chemicals to use on the corrosion? Hole saw bit on the hammer drill sounds solid.
First pic is the one pump mounting stud without the washer, other two show the stuck washers/ corrosion.
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I called the second option mechanic but feel I may be a bit more surgical after he mentioned using a tractor if it won't budge.
The washers on the jet pump are indeed stuck/ corroded on. I was able to remove one easily but left the other three assuming they would pop off with the initial puller technique.
I'll take a crack at removing the washers. Any advice on chemicals to use on the corrosion? Hole saw bit on the hammer drill sounds solid.
First pic is the one pump mounting stud without the washer, other two show the stuck washers/ corrosion.
_ _ _
I called the second option mechanic but feel I may be a bit more surgical after he mentioned using a tractor if it won't budge.
JC-SUPERJET
Active Member
Have you ever seen how a Pipe Jack Stand works?
It has a fine height adjustment screw and, a coarse height adjustment Lock WASHER.
Once that Lock Washer is set at an angle, it is literally impossible to slide the Jack Shaft downwards.
Only way to release the Shaft is to position the Lock Washer at 90 degrees (square) to the Shaft. Otherwise it will bind the Shaft with incredible force.
That Lock Washer can support thousands of pounds just by binding the Shaft at an angle.
Same thing is happening in your case.
Do not try to pull the Pump off with the Washers still in place or the Pump/Ski will get destroyed.
It has a fine height adjustment screw and, a coarse height adjustment Lock WASHER.
Once that Lock Washer is set at an angle, it is literally impossible to slide the Jack Shaft downwards.
Only way to release the Shaft is to position the Lock Washer at 90 degrees (square) to the Shaft. Otherwise it will bind the Shaft with incredible force.
That Lock Washer can support thousands of pounds just by binding the Shaft at an angle.
Same thing is happening in your case.
Do not try to pull the Pump off with the Washers still in place or the Pump/Ski will get destroyed.
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I like PB Blaster. It seems to work really well and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. 
I'd focus on wiggling and prying as a method of removal. Make SURE you have all of the hoses for the jet pump disconnected on the inside of the ski. I've hurled a few expletives at a jet pump or two only to realize I still had the hoses connected. LOL Good Luck !!!
I'd focus on wiggling and prying as a method of removal. Make SURE you have all of the hoses for the jet pump disconnected on the inside of the ski. I've hurled a few expletives at a jet pump or two only to realize I still had the hoses connected. LOL Good Luck !!!
Bowser
Active Member
Alright the remaining washers came off with a pick tool and a lil’ force. I will try winching off again before paying the mechanic. Next winching trial I’ll be paying more attn to the pry tabs on the lower two mounting ears- just need to find a 90º crow bar. Add in some PBizzle and hope it pulls off.
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Does this driveshaft clamp loosen with any special trick?
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Does this driveshaft clamp loosen with any special trick?
I use a small pair if diagonal cutting pliers and lift the tab and roll it I don't know any other way. I hate those things. I use ty wraps when I go back. I have two small 90 degree pray bars thatI use. They are approx 6: long and 1" wide. You might have to bend something.
I use ty wraps when I go back. I have two small 90 degree pray bars thatI use. They are approx 6: long and 1" wide. You might have to bend something.
