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blew up motor, installing rebuilt 787. what else to replace?
- Thread starter fubada
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I'm getting the entire shortblock from SBT. Also getting a Mikuni carb rebuild kit, complete gasket kit, wear ring, jet pump rebuild kit, and a drive line repair kit. Gas lines I'm not concerned with as they are only a year or two old. Is everything on my list a good idea to replace?
Here's a list of items I'm ordering can you tell me if I'm missing anything vital:
1 Sea-Doo 787 Standard Engine $845.00
1 Sea-Doo 787/800 Complete Gasket Kit $69.95
1 Sea-Doo Wear Ring - (139.5) $34.95
1 Sea-Doo Jet Pump Rebuild Kit $49.95
1 Sea-Doo Driveline Repair Kit - See Description $64.95
1 Sea-Doo 1988-1996 Clymers Manual $39.95
1 SBT Break-In Oil Quart $12.95
2 Mikuni SBN Rebuild Kit $69.90
1 Sea-Doo Impeller Removal Tool $14.95
1 Sea-Doo Engine Alignment Tool $149.95
1 Sea-Doo 787/800 Shim Pack $27.95
1 Sealant Kit $19.95
1 Impeller Stainless Steel Exchange Required $24.95
Thank you
1 Sea-Doo 787 Standard Engine $845.00
1 Sea-Doo 787/800 Complete Gasket Kit $69.95
1 Sea-Doo Wear Ring - (139.5) $34.95
1 Sea-Doo Jet Pump Rebuild Kit $49.95
1 Sea-Doo Driveline Repair Kit - See Description $64.95
1 Sea-Doo 1988-1996 Clymers Manual $39.95
1 SBT Break-In Oil Quart $12.95
2 Mikuni SBN Rebuild Kit $69.90
1 Sea-Doo Impeller Removal Tool $14.95
1 Sea-Doo Engine Alignment Tool $149.95
1 Sea-Doo 787/800 Shim Pack $27.95
1 Sealant Kit $19.95
1 Impeller Stainless Steel Exchange Required $24.95
Thank you
Do you know why the first engine blew? Be sure to fix whatever it was along with all the new goodies or you may blow this new one quickly. Be SURE the oil injection system is up to snuff. Hopefully new oil pump with long block? Replace all filters.
Keep fingers crossed.
Keep fingers crossed.
Oil and fuel filters. Especially oil, following a blown engine.
its the "seat', that is different size, the needle is the same.
The block you purchased from sbt, you'll have to remove the flywheel and pto, along with the intake/exhaust manifolds, and transfer to new, along witht he mag cover, which is where the oil pump is located.
If anything, dump the pump, and go premix, but keep the oil bottle, to feed the rv assy.
Once you get ur motor in/run'n, if you wanna sell the motor alignment tool, hit me up, i'm interested.
The block you purchased from sbt, you'll have to remove the flywheel and pto, along with the intake/exhaust manifolds, and transfer to new, along witht he mag cover, which is where the oil pump is located.
If anything, dump the pump, and go premix, but keep the oil bottle, to feed the rv assy.
Once you get ur motor in/run'n, if you wanna sell the motor alignment tool, hit me up, i'm interested.
seadooya, thanks for your help.
How do I know the seat size needed? Did Bombardier use a variety of seat sizes in 1996 GSX? I dropped off my ski at my friends garage and don't have immediate access to check my seat size. Should I replace the needle and seat or just the gaskets/o-rings that are in my carb rebuild kit?
Are people going premix to avoid oil starvation from oil pump failure? Is this a common failure?
Anything missing from my list above that I should consider replacing?
Thanks
How do I know the seat size needed? Did Bombardier use a variety of seat sizes in 1996 GSX? I dropped off my ski at my friends garage and don't have immediate access to check my seat size. Should I replace the needle and seat or just the gaskets/o-rings that are in my carb rebuild kit?
Are people going premix to avoid oil starvation from oil pump failure? Is this a common failure?
Anything missing from my list above that I should consider replacing?
Thanks
if you go premix, no need to worry about the inline oil filter, and if oil pump is set properly, or failing, anytime soon.
When you remove the "seat", the number is stamped on the bottom, of it...1.5, 2.0...etc
If you never messed with it, then the seat should be 1.5. You can get an o-ring from Ace, homedepot, and replacethe one thats on the seat noe, and just re-use the seat. Needle, i guess, wouldnt be bad investment, wouldnt hurt.
When going thru/rebuilding the carb/s, DO NOT USE THE SPRINGS INSIDE THE KIT, re-use the original ones.
When you remove the "seat", the number is stamped on the bottom, of it...1.5, 2.0...etc
If you never messed with it, then the seat should be 1.5. You can get an o-ring from Ace, homedepot, and replacethe one thats on the seat noe, and just re-use the seat. Needle, i guess, wouldnt be bad investment, wouldnt hurt.
When going thru/rebuilding the carb/s, DO NOT USE THE SPRINGS INSIDE THE KIT, re-use the original ones.
When you replace/install the springs from the kit, you screw up the pop-off, of the carb. you'll never get it right. The "springs" are rated in grams, the motor/carbs work from the manifold pressure, to "pop" the needle, to allow the fuel circuit to open. If springs are messed with , and got too high/low spring, it'll either flood or wont transfer to high circuit.
I'm not sure which carbon ring you are referring to. I'm new and I'm trying to gather as much information as possible. Thank you for your help.
300 bucks, will allow you to "bore" out the cylinders, up to 4 times. The std motor, comes bore out to max.
But if anytime, the prem motor, is faulty, and needs to be serviced under warranty, i'm not sure what sbt does on there end, if they replace with anutha prem motor, or do they bore out them or slap on a set of "std" cylinders...?
But if anytime, the prem motor, is faulty, and needs to be serviced under warranty, i'm not sure what sbt does on there end, if they replace with anutha prem motor, or do they bore out them or slap on a set of "std" cylinders...?
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