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Bit off more than I can chew

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Stryker11

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We are new to the Sea-doo world, and my wife picked up 2 Sea-Doos (1993 Bombardier SP and a 1996 Yamaha 1100 Waveraider) from her grandfather who said they worked a few years ago when he took them out but had them garaged since so needs a tune up. I am going to take them in for a tune up, but there are some things I think I can do.

I found a Service Repair Order in the owners manual from 2012 that says the Yamaha needs carb work. Only runs at idle. I think I can work on this one, but where is it located?

The thing that really concerned me is then I pulled off the seat to the bombardier, I saw a fair amount of oil on the floor of the engine bay (sorry of that's not the right term). I'm a newb at this. Is this something that I need to be concerned about or is this relatively normal
 
The lower grommet and or the seal of the oil tank fail pretty often. When this happens, oil leaks into the hull.

If the ski has "Grey Tempo" (name brand, not color) fuel lines they MUST be replaced. As well as replace or major clean the fuel selector and clean the carbs. Including the filters in the carb.
 
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Stryker - don't be too quick to take them to someone for service. About a year ago, I got my two skis from a friend and they had not been run for several years. I knew nothing about them. From this forum and a bit of help from Google, I have since rebuilt the carbs, replaced steering cables, fuel lines, wear rings and more. I am by no means a mechanic, but I have a fair amount of skill with tools. I saved a pile of money in the process.

So give the experts on the forum a chance. I think you will be happy.
 
Anything new can cause some anxiety. If you work on bikes, we will fix any ski issue you have. There are people here that have GREAT knowledge. You just have to give us accurate information.

To hit on the Grey Tempo fuel lines again. Other than firing it up just to make sure it runs, the lines and other things I mentioned above MUST be the first thing you do. These are engine killers as well as carb killers. They force the engine to run lean and the Pistons self destruct.

I can not express the importance of this.

One line at a time so you don't mix up the fittings.
 
quickest way to get rid of that excess oil is to spray some purple power or castrol superclean (both at wally world for like $7-8 a gallon) and let it sit for a few minutes, park the trailer on an incline and pop the drain plug on the back, spray some water towards the front and let the goop run out the back, if you have one, use a wet vac for the rest of the sludge that collects near the back.

I would definitely pull both carbs off and clean/rebuild assuming your comfortable doing so, but if you end up taking it to a seasoned wrencher make sure you know what your getting into, some shops can really hammer you on prices. (Yami carbs should be under the airbox, opposite side of the exhaust pipe, mark you lines)

Have you done a compression test yet ?
 
This forum stepped me through everything I needed to do to get a 1996 gti up and going! We have NO shop within 100 miles and I have been zipping around the lakes no issues! I had to do EVERYTHING they advised. Not one wrong word of advice! I did not know the Seadoo products whatsoever. I am no mechanic btw!

Mud+Water+Speed
 
quickest way to get rid of that excess oil is to spray some purple power or castrol superclean (both at wally world for like $7-8 a gallon) and let it sit for a few minutes, park the trailer on an incline and pop the drain plug on the back, spray some water towards the front and let the goop run out the back, if you have one, use a wet vac for the rest of the sludge that collects near the back.

I would definitely pull both carbs off and clean/rebuild assuming your comfortable doing so, but if you end up taking it to a seasoned wrencher make sure you know what your getting into, some shops can really hammer you on prices. (Yami carbs should be under the airbox, opposite side of the exhaust pipe, mark you lines)

Have you done a compression test yet ?

I have not done a compression test. Looked up online on how to do it yesterday. Seems pretty simple. I have done a lot of carb work on cruizers and dirt bikes. If these are anywhere near similar, than I am comfortable.
 
Anything new can cause some anxiety. If you work on bikes, we will fix any ski issue you have. There are people here that have GREAT knowledge. You just have to give us accurate information.

To hit on the Grey Tempo fuel lines again. Other than firing it up just to make sure it runs, the lines and other things I mentioned above MUST be the first thing you do. These are engine killers as well as carb killers. They force the engine to run lean and the Pistons self destruct.

I can not express the importance of this.

One line at a time so you don't mix up the fittings.

I know the fuel is bad, so I will start there. waveraider.jpg I know this is a stupid question, but the tank up front is the gas tank correct?
 
One tank for gas, a smaller tank for oil.

The biggest difference and only REAL hassle when working on these things, if you are a decent mechanic is...the limited room to work. THAT will drive you batsh*t after a while!
 
One tank for gas, a smaller tank for oil.

The biggest difference and only REAL hassle when working on these things, if you are a decent mechanic is...the limited room to work. THAT will drive you batsh*t after a while!

Haha. I can relate. My career job is a service HVAC Technician.
 
Finally drained the gas out of both sea doos. Man that stuff was nasty. Now the fun part of cleaning out the carbs and tanks.

What are your thoughts on sea foam to throw into the tank to clean it out instead of removing the tank. I will add a few fuel filters in the lines to grab any loose sediments, but do you think that will be effective?
 
Nope no seafoam. If you want, throw a couple gallons of fresh stuff In there and then drain it again. Should get most of the nasty out
 
NOOOO!! don't use seafoam in a ski,,it is solvent based and will break down the oil that lubes everything
 
Wow. I'm glad I threw that on the forum. I've had a few people say, "that should do it". Then again, These are not their ski's, so what will they lose? Are there any additives you guys will recommend for ski that has been sitting for about 3 years?
 
I've said this before, as it was good advice I was given nearly 50 years ago now, lol: "There is no way to make gasoline 'better' with fuel additives, save your money".
And as you spend more time on the forum, you'll see that the highly experienced PWC owners pretty much eschew any fuel additives.
These engines are robust but were designed by the OEMs to very exacting specifications. Essentially ANYTHING you put in the fuel can have adverse effects, in extreme circumstances.
 
Ive been trying to find this on youtube, but am really struggling. Trying to remove the carb on the 93 Bombardier, but cannot find the mounts to save my life. I've removed the air intake, but can't detach it from the machine. is it required to remove the gas lines before you can get to the nuts?
 
Ive been trying to find this on youtube, but am really struggling. Trying to remove the carb on the 93 Bombardier, but cannot find the mounts to save my life. I've removed the air intake, but can't detach it from the machine. is it required to remove the gas lines before you can get to the nuts?

Disregard. Figured it out.
 
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