• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Bilge Pumps

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rampage

Premium Member
Premium Member
Has anyone ever installed one? I know the 2 bailers are designed to get water out, but what if you are dead in the water and taking on water? This happened to me with the GTI...the carbon seal was pouring in water and the ski would not run...if it wasnt for a boat passing by I would have def sunk the ski. Just wondering if its a good idea to put one in or just have one handy in case of emergencies
 
It's not a "bad" idea to put one in if that answers your question. I wouldn't mind having one. Certainly buys you some piece of mind, especially if you have experienced your hull filling up with water.

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't the new Seadoo PWC's have them instead of bailer tubes?
 
I have one installed with a float switch as an extra piece of mind on my ski that I go fishing. After sitting still for an hour i have water in the hull and it's bailed out by my float pump..

118.jpg
 
XP

my '98 GTX does not have one, but my '02 XP does... the XP sees WAY more water getting in because I can bury that thing up to the handlebars easily all day :)

the factory one died, so i found on that doesn't use a float switch for $90 i think?

it (when it has power) spins every 5 min or so and 'tests' for water... if it finds it, it starts pumping till it's out...

no floats to bounce or break, and it's not running ALL the time... although i've seen pumps at harbor freight that looked almost identical that say you can leave them on all the time...

my XP had factory leads that are only hot when the engine / ignition is on.

I can push start w/out starting it or just put the lanyard on, and the pump starts up, and if it finds water it moves 300 GPH i think

but to answer your question simply: YES, ADD AS MANY PUMPS AS YOU CAN AFFORD :)...
 
I think I will do that. I looked at buying a ski one day and it had 2 pumps in it, and I decided if he needed those in there I prob didnt want to buy it LOL!!! I might install mine with a small toggle switch mounted inside just for those emergency situations.
 
I think I will do that. I looked at buying a ski one day and it had 2 pumps in it, and I decided if he needed those in there I prob didnt want to buy it LOL!!! I might install mine with a small toggle switch mounted inside just for those emergency situations.

My skis have two factory pumps that work when the engine is running. Is that what you were looking at?
 
My skis have two factory pumps that work when the engine is running. Is that what you were looking at?

The 97 GTX only had the balers that only work if you are running, so I was looking for something that I could turn on if needed if the ski was not running
 
I have them in almost all of my water toys. In my Super Jet... I have 2 500 gal/hr pumps. The reason I did that is because I have a tendency of Sub'ing it... and it takes on A LOT of water, while submerged. ;) And since the engine compartment is small, I got to get it out quick.
 
For those of you that added them to ski's that didn't come with them stock, Did you drill a discharge port in the hull? If not where/how do you discharge the pump?

I have been thinking of installing just a single 300g/hr pump, because I don't sub my ski's and no matter where they take on water, it doesn't come in anywhere near 300g/hr..

-TheChad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For those of you that added them to ski's that didn't come with them stock, Did you drill a discharge port in the hull? If not where/how do you discharge the pump?

-TheChad

You can put it anywhere that is convenient. But, make sure it's above the normal water line of the hull... otherwise, water will come in through the pump. You can put a check valve in the outlet hose... but that doesn’t always work well, and they restrict flow.

My big Polaris Genesis has a single 300 in it. The outlet of the pump is in the rear, above the foot mats.






88.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Would the style with the float switch be better, or does the float bounce around to much when your riding?
 
Would the style with the float switch be better, or does the float bounce around to much when your riding?


That’s up to you.

The boat has a auto switch in it… and it’s not working… so I have to turn it on manually. The Superjet is just manual… but the Polaris is both auto an manual.

Personally, I like a manual switch…but a float is ok, as long as you can do a manual bypass.
 
XP

my XP has one factory, that vents below the water line... the run the line up to the highest point inside the ski (about 3' above water line) then back down to the pump.... that will keep water out... the pump has no problem moving water up a 3/4" hose a few feet...
 
I set up a cheap 500 gph bilge pump with a 5 foot hose to flush my RXT with antifreeze for winter storage. After I was done with that, I bagged it up with the hose and put it in the storage compartment up front... if I were to find the hull filling with water for some reason, I can grab this pump out of the storage compartment and pull the seats off and drop it into the hull, hook it's leads to the battery and pump away. Seems simple enough to me, and doesn't require any drilling into the hull, and I can use it every fall to flush the cooling system with antifreeze to protect it for it's winter sleep. Win-Win, I think. And cheap too, less than $20. :-)

I actually got a very good deal on this RXT after the previous owner had flooded the hull (intake grate front bolt came loose and fell out, and there was no silicone cap on the inside of the hull like was called for... that forward bolt goes ALL the way thru your hull!). When he realized it was sinking he jumped on and started the engine, then tried to turn around (I'm guessing to his right, since the air intake tunnel runs across that side of the hull beside the engine) to get back to the docks and in doing so submerged the air intake tunnel sucking in water and hydrolocking the #1 piston bending the connecting rod! Eeeek! SeaDoo dealership took the engine out and apart, but then wanted almost $5K to replace the connecting rod and re-assemble the engine... he sold it to me as was for $2100 on the trailer with the engine in pieces in boxes. I spent every free moment in the month of October working on that engine and putting everything back together per the service manual specs, and it runs great now (and I put a nice sized gob of silicone on top of that blasted intake grate bolt inside the hull before I put the engine back in!!!). Check your intake grate bolts and feel under the driveline for a big gob of silicone on the inside of the hull... there should be one, at least on this RXT model (I don't know if RXP's and other models are done the same way or not).

It took some effort on my part, but I have a nicely running 2006 RXT with only about $2800 in it total (gaskets, a connecting rod, connecting rod bearing set, and stretch bolts for the case and the head).

Point being, you DON'T want this to happen to your ride! If you do find the hull is full of water for any reason, best to pump the water out with an electric pump before starting it and getting back to the dock and on a trailer or lift!!! If the water level in the hull makes it up to the air intake system, you're screwed! If you turn the watercraft to your right and give it throttle, the hull will lean over in that direction and may well suck water into the engine thru the air intake tunnel that runs between the engine and the side of the hull (in the RXT and RXP models with supercharger and carb on the back end of the engine, at least).

If the previous owner of this RXT had run it straight and level for a ways 1st, the built in SeaDoo water extraction system would likely have sucked the water level down to a safe level where he could have turned around and gotten it back to the docks... but, hindsight is 20/20 I guess. His loss, my gain! :-)

- Michael
 
pics

mine are in storage for the winter under 2 layers of covers... i won't have pics till spring... sorry guys ... and they are 120 miles each way from where I live...
 
Mine are at my shop... and I probably wont go in until after the first of the year. (sorry, no mouting pics)

I don't know how they are supposed to be mounted... but I wouldn't put screws into the bottom of the hull. Any install I do, gets put in with epoxy.

Just find the lowest point... toward the rear of the engine compartment, and epoxy it down. Normally, the little cage will come off the bottom of the pump. You can take it off, and glue it down, then after it dries, snap the pump into it... and run the hoses and power.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top