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Battery

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DavesNotHereMan

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At the risk of opening up a religious topic, I could really use an update.

The original battery in my 2011 GTI LTD 155 has given up the ghost. 4 years is not bad.

So, I was ready to jump on an AGM battery from Batteries +, but there is only a 12 month warranty. It is $129 less 10% for online order/ store pickup.

My 01 GTX has a Duralast Gold, which has lasted for 2 yrs and is in good shape, but a new one has only a 3 month warranty.

I have not been able to find a Duracell replacement. Which I hear has a 2 yr warranty.

So, what is the 2016 update on Battery replacement?

Dave
 
Most just assume you will get two years out of a quality battery. And in most cases, they go to gel cell batteries once their acid cells fail. I did but I happen to get a JUNK gel cell. Started the ski ONE TIME,,,, I went and bought an expensive acid cell and I needed it NOW as I was meeting others to go riding. I will replace it with a Gel Cell, but I will ask LouDoo which he uses as he has found a good name and has had good luck with them.
 
My Duracell came from batteries+ last summer. It looks identical to many others I've seen except for the Duracell sticker.
 
Guys: the Yuasa, which is OEM has 400 cold cranking amps and 30 amp hours.

I found the Duracell's on the Batteries + site, they all have 24 month warranty. I only found 1 with 400 cca and there is no capacity listed. It is $144.

The dimensions are not quite right either. Height is short.

Does a 330 cca vs a 400 cca really matter?
 
My Duracell says 325cca but tested at 372 when I got it. Mine is for a 787 2 stroke though.
219.jpg
 
Guys: the Yuasa, which is OEM has 400 cold cranking amps and 30 amp hours.

Does a 330 cca vs a 400 cca really matter?

There are tradeoffs, 30AH is a reserve capacity specification. If you prefer longer life, higher reserve capacity batteries have thicker plates but fewer plates. They tend to maintain their performance longer but have fewer cranking amps.

About any question you have about battery specs is answered here:
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/
 
it will if the engine is really cold :)
Guys: the Yuasa, which is OEM has 400 cold cranking amps and 30 amp hours.

I found the Duracell's on the Batteries + site, they all have 24 month warranty. I only found 1 with 400 cca and there is no capacity listed. It is $144.

The dimensions are not quite right either. Height is short.

Does a 330 cca vs a 400 cca really matter?
 
i was just at batteries + a week ago, for $136 including tax got the duracell 30L with a 2 year.
used the 10% online ordering discount and picked it up.
 
30LA Duracell Ultra AGM Gray Case Battery
CYL10020 1 $130.49
Subtotal: $130.49
Tax: $7.83
Total: $138.32

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/cyl10020


honestly, I have no idea what the difference is between the two.

OK. Just purchased at Batteries Plus

From the specs, the only difference is the case. CYL10009 is a black case, CYL10020 is a Gray case.

Using the Online Coupon for 10% off:
CYL10009
30LA Duracell Ultra AGM Black Case: $130.49
Tax: 7.83
Total: $138.32

This has 400cca, and a 24 month warranty with full replacement. That is, no pro-rata

There is also a $10 Rebate from Duracell.

Thanks for the input and updated info.
 
I have been selling Chrome batteries for about a year now, I have never had one come back for warranty , now for the acid test ,pun intended sort of lol. I had a customer bring me an RFI to repair , a new Chrome ytx20 was installed this time last year, since then it sat here, the customer will not return phone calls or texts, the RFI has now become mine. The battery has been hooked up and never been charged since it was installed, I pulled it out this morning and took it back to the shop, I hooked up a charger and it is taking a charge, which is something I could never get a Deka to do, I will let you know later this week if it holds the charge but so far it's looking really good.
 
HELP!

I bought the battery above and it does not seem to fit into the battery holder. It is very close, but I cannot squeeze it together enough to get the mounting holes on the bottom of two pieces of the battery holder to line up. There is a rubberized anti-vibration seal or gasket attached to the holder and that seems to be what is preventing the two halves to line up.

I see 3 wiring harnesses attached to the back half of the battery holder and don't know if these can be removed. One of them goes into the fuse box. Does that come off? If I could get the battery holder out of the ski, I am sure I could get enough leverage to squeeze it together.
 
HELP!

I bought the battery above and it does not seem to fit into the battery holder. It is very close, but I cannot squeeze it together enough to get the mounting holes on the bottom of two pieces of the battery holder to line up. There is a rubberized anti-vibration seal or gasket attached to the holder and that seems to be what is preventing the two halves to line up.

I see 3 wiring harnesses attached to the back half of the battery holder and don't know if these can be removed. One of them goes into the fuse box. Does that come off? If I could get the battery holder out of the ski, I am sure I could get enough leverage to squeeze it together.

The wire harnesses can be removed. Removing and reinstalling that battery is definitely a learning curve.
I would pull the battery back out, place it next to your original battery and CONFIRM they are identical in size.. This way you will KNOW it will work or not before you go nuts trying to get it into the bracket.
 
Don't have the original, it was turned in when I bought the new one.

I looked at dimensions. None of the replacement batteries have the exact same dimensions. The battery measures 6.62x5.125x6.87 tall. The battery holder with the rubber ribs is the same. I do not have a problem placing the battery into the front half of the holder. A little pressure, a rubber squeak and it seats. Getting it into the ski is another matter. I can get the top in just fine, there is just no leverage to squeeze the bottom together.

Maybe a little WD-40, or a little dry lube?
 
If you can get it close, tap it with a rubber mallet. See if there is a specific part on the inside of the bracket that is stopping it from snapping, if so, can you shave that part off?
 
Hit that SEND a little too soon.

Hopefully, I will be able to see how the harnesses are connected. If I disconnect the ones on the port side of the ski, I may be able to turn the battery holder enough to see the fuse box from behind.

Thanks, we have guests for the weekend. I can't get back to this until next week. I will let you know the results.
 
I must say the battery box is something seadoo needs to work on its pain in the a$$ to get them in and out each year. there must be a better way!!!
 
I am a ford mechanic not that it means poop on a ski but I wrench on a regular basis and I still swear and bitch up a storm each time I do it so don't feel bad! :)
 
Well, I figured out a few things:

The wiring harness on the port side of the ski actually goes into a heat sink, maybe a rectifier (don't have the manual) that is clipped into place. The lower clip has to move first, I was not able to do it by hand, but was able to push it back far enough with a screwdriver to pop the heat sink / rectifier loose with my hand. Installation is the opposite. You slide under the upper clip first and push it in to click it in place under the lower clip. The wires are all connected to the heat sink / rectifier and the entire assembly moves out of the way.

Fuse box. A whole 'nuther story. There are 4 clips on the fuse box. Two of them are in a bow/stern orientation, two in a port starboard orientation. Using the same screwdriver, I went under the back clip in the bow/stern orientation and proceeded to break it off. You cannot see the back clip behind the fuse box, maybe a mirror attached to the gas tank somehow will allow you to see the back clip; I just used "feel". Bad idea. It is now somewhere in the bilge. And, they are not the right clips anyway. They are for the fuse box cover, which now has to be replaced. The correct clips are the ones on the side with the port/starboard orientation. Pry them back - Just a little - and the fuse box pops off. The main wiring harness goes into the bottom of the fuse box. Now, the positive side battery cable goes to a stud that is buried under that wiring harness. It has another red cable attached. I can barely touch it with my hand, so, I suspect I will need an extension to get to it. If I go that route to remove the battery holder from the ski, that is.

So, I was able to move the back half of the battery holder into the bow compartment and place the battery into that half first. Then I put the front half over the battery and had just enough space and leverage to squeeze the two halves together. I also used a clamp. The kind with a squeeze handle and could squeeze it together. When I released the pressure, however, the halves separated by maybe half an inch.

Next, I will use a small C Clamp on both sides to squeeze it back into position and thread the hold-down bolt back through the holes and into the base. There are some holes that line up on the sides, I may put a nut-bolt through those instead. There were none there.

I'm sorry I have no pics, I was by myself and needed some extra hands and arms to pull that off.

So, I will order a new fuse box cover and decal, get some stainless nuts, washers and bolts and go at it again.

Think I will sell the ski before I do this again!
 
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