Battery

[DavesNotHereMan]

Duh!
Forget everything I said.

After doing some research and finding a YouTube video, I decided to try removing the entire "electronics carrier" from the back of the battery holder.

Yes, I have the battery out of the holder. The carrier snaps on right under the data port. I was able to pop it up by hand, once, and had to use a screwdriver with only a little force, the second time.

To reattach, there is a tab in each corner of the carrier that must go under the corners of the battery holder. There are small screw holes in tabs, but no screws. Then the entire unit snaps back into place.

Took maybe 30 seconds!

Sure helps when you know the right procedure.

 

[Googus]

So you don't have to remove the whole black case holder?

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

So you don't have to remove the whole black case holder?

When you pop the electronics bracket off the back of the battery carrier, all of the electronics that you see in the picture simply separate from the battery case and stay in the ski. There are two bolts, one on each side of the floor of the battery case. You need an extension to get to them. Loosen them but do not remove them, they are too easy to drop into the bilge (ask me how I know). Then you can lift the whole battery in its case all at once. You can remove the bolts and separate the case halves outside of the ski.

If you are inclined, some guys have removed the battery tray from the bilge, then threaded in some bolts from the underside of the tray. This gives you 2 studs to position the battery case on reinstall.

 

[Googus]

Boy sounds like fun

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

The first time I did it, I was ready to set fire to the thing.

When you know how to pop the electronics bracket off, it is a piece of cake. Very simple, I just did not know how to get that bracket off.

Literally a few minutes and that is from being careful not to lose those bolts.

 

[Googus]

So if you don't completely remove bolts how does it come out. Can a non wrencher do it?

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

So if you don't completely remove bolts how does it come out. Can a non wrencher do it?

The black case is about 3/8" thick where the bolts go in. Completely back them out of threaded tray, but just let them sit loose in the case. Lift the whole case out with the bolts still in the case. When you try to remove the battery/case, if the bolts are still threaded into the tray, you obviously won't be able to remove the case. Just unbolt them til the case is free from the tray.

 

[Googus]

Any tricks other then threading screws. I am worried when I put box down I will loose a nut in the depths of the ski and this is in the front not the back like others.
Thanks for all the input

 

[Hawk388]

I guess SeaDoo changed the battery thing recently. The one in my 2016 GTR 215 is super easy to get at and remove.

Hell, it's so easy, I'm going to install my fish finder battery tray right next to the original one.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Yeah. I think it was 2012 or 2013, they moved the battery to the back rather than under the forward hood. Very much easier to get to.

 

[Coastiejoe]

The first time I did it, I was ready to set fire to the thing.

When you know how to pop the electronics bracket off, it is a piece of cake. Very simple, I just did not know how to get that bracket off.

Literally a few minutes and that is from being careful not to lose those bolts.

The first time I removed my battery it took me probably 30 minutes to get the electronics off the battery case. I was NOT happy.

No I can pull the battery is maybe 1 minute.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

That first time, I had my whole body head first in that forward compartment trying to get that damn battery case bolt. Pretty funny, now, but I almost got stuck.

 

[Googus]

That's a good one

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Remember, those are Stainless Steel, magnets don't work.

And that's why some guys thread in a bolt from the bottom and makes it a stud.

 

[Hawk388]

Yeah. I think it was 2012 or 2013, they moved the battery to the back rather than under the forward hood. Very much easier to get to.

Nope. Mine is in the front just behind the plastic "wall" of the front storage compartment. This makes it extremely easy to get to.

Remember, those are Stainless Steel, magnets don't work.

And that's why some guys thread in a bolt from the bottom and makes it a stud.

You might be confused. If it was SS, a magnet WOULD work. However, if it's aluminum, then a magnet wouldn't work.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Technically, we are both correct. Try this from Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/en/75/magnetism-in-stainless-steel-fasteners

I have not been successful in using my telescoping magnet to retrieve SS or Aluminum. Same reason magnets don't stick to SS fridge door.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Wouldn't it be as effective to use some wood screws and fasten the computer and electronics harnesses directly to the plastic top of the battery? (joking)

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

There are actually holes in the top of that case for screws! Ha Ha Ha!

Cannot imagine the design discussions on that. "Yea, let's not put the electronics on their own panel, lets screw them on this plastic thing, attach it to the battery and not tell anyone how it comes off. Har Har Har".

But, hey, still love my 2011 GTI LTD 155. Will click over 200 hrs on our Friday ride.