Any reliable alternative to transom mount transducer for fish finder

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Double07

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I have a Lowrance 337 fish finder combo that I plan to put on my 2001 seadoo utopia.
I have read several posts on how simple and worry free it is to drill holes in the hull, mount the transducer, and seal the holes, but yet somthing about drilling holes in the hull is a bit worrysome with me.

Is there an alternative to drilling holes, especially below the water line, to mount the transducer? can I use a super strong glue or something similar?
Anyone ever tried something else other than the conventional drill holes, mount, and seal?

Please share your ideas, and a picture is always worth a thousand words.
Thanks

-Chika
 
IIs there an alternative to drilling holes, especially below the water line, to mount the transducer? can I use a super strong glue or something similar?
Anyone ever tried something else other than the conventional drill holes, mount, and seal?

Please share your ideas, and a picture is always worth a thousand words.
Thanks

-Chika

I placed my transducer infront of the jet pump intake and behind the bilge pump. Don't use super glue or even any type of quick epoxy. Use a slow cure epoxy. Also make sure your transducer can function as an in-hull mount. You can see in the pictures the small pocket the transducer fits in. The white epoxy is a loctite marine epoxy from lowes, approx $5.00

Eddie
 

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I placed my transducer infront of the jet pump intake and behind the bilge pump. Don't use super glue or even any type of quick epoxy. Use a slow cure epoxy. Also make sure your transducer can function as an in-hull mount. You can see in the pictures the small pocket the transducer fits in. The white epoxy is a loctite marine epoxy from lowes, approx $5.00

Eddie

Thanks a lot Eddie. A picture is definitely worth a thousand words.
How is the sensitivity with the transducer at that location?
I read someshere that you lose sensitivity when you mount the transducer in hull. Is that the case?
If this works well, I would rather mount inside the hull.
 
They say that there is some loss but that is more based on the material or the thickness. I tested my in place without it being secured, just held in place with a bag full of water and I would loose some readings. Once I secured it with epoxy it worked great at both low and high speeds (40 mph). I confirmed it with another boat that had a factory installed depth finder and they matched.

Eddie
 
They say that there is some loss but that is more based on the material or the thickness. I tested my in place without it being secured, just held in place with a bag full of water and I would loose some readings. Once I secured it with epoxy it worked great at both low and high speeds (40 mph). I confirmed it with another boat that had a factory installed depth finder and they matched.

Eddie

Thank you!
I am mounting mine inside the hull as well. Do you remember the epoxy you used?
 
Got to Lowes and look for the LOCTITE .85 oz. Marine Clear Epoxy Syringe it will cost you just over $5.00
 
I have read this thread and the number of threads on the depth guage from Ebay. Both have assured us that the SeaDoo hull will allow a transducer to work fine with these sonars.

After going through the Cabelas and Gander Mountain ads I am finding a number of inexpensive graphs on sale for Father's day. I even went so far as to go through the installation manuals on the manufacturers website to confirm. Other than the $69 Lowrance X4, all the models above that showed a shoot-thru-hull installation.

The trick was doing this through fiberglass rather than aluminum or wood. Lowrance even mentioned that sandwiched fiberglass was a bad thing. But as Racereddie pointed out, a test with water in the bilge will let you know how much sensitivity you lose. That should be done each time before mounting permanantly with epoxy.

I also found some of the new Downward Scanning graphs are coming down in price. I was very interested in this option until reading the manual that led me to believe that a shoot-thru-hull installation is not recommended. These new DS graphs need to be in the water for full capabilities.

So I guess if I was going to buy the cheapo in-dash depth guage off ebay for $69-99, I think I would rather opt for the Lowrance X4 Pro for $99 and get a simple graph as well.

Good luck guys!

PS: I am not excited about that epoxy job way down in the bottom of my engine compartment. I'm a fat kid!
 
I did go with in-hull mount as Eddie suggested.
It worked perfectly well, no problems.
The 337 is really cool. I am using the dual frequency transducer.
Am happy with it.

-Chika
 
Is the transducer in some sort of container or box ... or is it directly epoxied to the hull? In Eddie's pic it looks like it is sitting in some sort of cup? I went with the Hawkeye D10d and it didn't come with anything like that.
 
That's just the shape of his transducer. Note the wire coming out of the top of it and the pointed shape for normally mounting on the transom.

These are epoxied directly to the bare fiberglass.
 
Is the transducer in some sort of container or box ... or is it directly epoxied to the hull? In Eddie's pic it looks like it is sitting in some sort of cup? I went with the Hawkeye D10d and it didn't come with anything like that.

I installed the D10d also, below is the packing list, the transducer is the sealed box with 30ft of cable, what you see in the pictures at the top is the transducer at it is epoxied directly to the hull

Eddie

PARTS SUPPLIED IN PACKAGING
1. The following parts should be included with the display:
• Digital Depth Sounder Display
• White and Black Faces and Bezels (optional on some models, see
package for details)
• Display Sun Cover (optional on some models, see package for details)
• Thick Dash Extension Rod (optional on some models, see package for
details)
• Flush Mount Bracket and Hardware
• Display Power Harness and Waterproof Fuse Holder Attached to the Unit

2. The following parts should be included with the transducer:
• Transom/Glue-In Transducer with 30 ft Cable and Plug
• Transducer Support Bracket with Attached Kick-Up Bracket
• (2) Tapered Plastic Shims
• (2) Cable clamps
• Clam Shell Cable Cover
• (2) #10 x 1.25” self-tapping screws
• (4) #6 x 1/2” self-tapping screws
If any items are missing or damaged, please contact our customer service
department.
 
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