After 4 hours of riding, top speed slowed and felt like ski was flooding

[Kawika]

Ok, so i just had my carbs rebuilt with new Mikuni OEM kits and changed all the gas lines as well. A local shop here did it for me at a reasonable price ($250) in my opinion because i justme honestly didn't have the time to do it on my own. So the ski ran strong as hell for the 1st hour or so. Water was choppy but it was still able to do 44-46 in choppy water. So went jumping some waves etc and couple times the ski went vertical in the air etc. Question is - I would imagine that having the ski up like that shouldn't affect flooding correct?

I'm not sure if the high speed screws have much to do with it since it was originally running pretty strong.

I noticed after a while that my ski was not quite as fast. We were on them for probably 4 hours straight. We finally hit some glassy water and my ski would then only hit 42 mph max. Now i know that this ski should hit 50+ especially on glass water. But mine was struggling at that point. Then it would start to bog at times at wide open throttle. It did this once early on, but i didn't think anything of it.

If i'm not mistaken, i'm assuming that this leads to carbs and tuning?
With running the ski for that long, shouldn't affect less performance mph right?

Any feedback would help as the shop said they'd take a look at it and get it right for no addt'l charge.

 

[voodoo]

I ride long durations, if you have a power valve engine this would be a item to check/clean as it sounds like the fuel system was taken care of, the carbs operate tilted about the same as flat, do a compression test before you remove the rave/power valves and again afterwards, also make certain the fuel/water seperator is not jammed with old steel gas can trash or something from the tank that the hard riding mixed with the new gas.

 

[Kawika]

Can you point me in the right direction of where the fuel/water separator is at by chance? I can't find it with the search engine. Thanks

 

[seadooya]

not quite sure what ski your referring to, but follow the fuel line from the carb, back under the hood some where, and you'll see a white cylinder looking thing, hanging.

If you have the RAVES ,i'd check those for carbon build-up, check your compressiion, but should not be carb related, IF...?, they(shop) did there job???

 

[jhjesse]

Your profile shows a 97GTX. If that is the ski in question,then I would check and clean the RAVES as the other guys have mentioned.

 

[Kawika]

not quite sure what ski your referring to, but follow the fuel line from the carb, back under the hood some where, and you'll see a white cylinder looking thing, hanging.

If you have the RAVES ,i'd check those for carbon build-up, check your compressiion, but should not be carb related, IF...?, they(shop) did there job???

I'll check the raves, but I thought the white cylinder thing is in the tank and that sends the signal of weather the tank is full or not to the electronic gauge. That on is in the top of the tank that typically the chip inside goes bad - I can't imagine that it would affect the performance, but only the reading of how much gas is in the ski right? The ski is a 97 GTX. Is this it, or are you referring to another cylinder?

 

[seadooya]

another 'cylinder".

From the tank, your "res" and "on" lines go to the selector switch, from there, a single line branches off to the "inline" fuel filter, then from filter to the mag carb.

 

[kustomkarl]

Kwika, you really need to add your seadoo model and year to you avatar for future questions...it makes things so much easier to help you out. Check the raves and I would just first replace the spark plugs gapped correctly and see what happens. It could be a few things that could cause this problem...crap in fuel, dirty rave valves or just a fouled plug.

Karl

 

[Kawika]

Kwika, you really need to add your seadoo model and year to you avatar for future questions...it makes things so much easier to help you out. Check the raves and I would just first replace the spark plugs gapped correctly and see what happens. It could be a few things that could cause this problem...crap in fuel, dirty rave valves or just a fouled plug.

Karl

Thanks Karl...I'll change my sig. I had thought that the model was in the sig when i changed it initially. Haven't posted in a little bit. I'll try to go through them all. The Ski is a 97 GTX with about 65 hours on it now. You think the raves can be dirty already at that amount of hours by chance?

David

 

[Kawika]

2 cylinders in question

Hey guys....I took a couple of pics to help me identify which one is the Mag Cylinder Carb Filter you were talking about because i'm not sure which one it is since i'm a noob and still learning I'm assuming it's the smaller one in the 1st pic?

OR

 

[Bills86e]

top pic is inline oil filter just before the oil injection from oil tank.
bottom pic is the fuel filter/water separator mentioned in post #6. Dump it out before each ride on concrete so you can tell if you are getting condensation from the gas tank, as part of your pre-ride inspection. That has a Square O-ring to seal air from being drawn in, make sure bowl cap is screwed back on square & tite. Bill

 

[voodoo]

The one in the second picture is the water/fuel strainer and this needs to be cleaned at least in the beginning of the season, put a dab of oil on the oring so it goes back in without sliding to the side allowing air to leak into the fuel system, anytime air leaks in you will run lean and overheating will happen quickly, while you are in there cut the tails off those wire ties.

 

[Kawika]

Thanks Bill and Voodoo...

Quick question though, once I dump it out on the concrete - how can i tell if there's condensation in it by doing that? Presence of water in it? I tried unscrewing that sucker and it's on tight as hell. Not to be funny, but to unscrew it - it's on there normal right? Meaning righty tighty and lefty loosy? Sometimes you get those crazy situations where it's backwards to screw it on and off. I just don't want to damage it since it's on there so damn tight

 

[kustomkarl]

If you looking at it from the bottom, upside down with the white bowl pointing at you, it turns off in a counter clockwise direction from the black top cap.
The idea is to first look in the bowl and look for sediment or water at the bottom of the bowl as water ans sediment is heavier and denser and settles on the bottom under the fuel.

Karl

 

[Bills86e]

Yes, right to tite, left to loose. Someone may have LOST the O-ring, thinking "I'll
tighten the crap out of it". I'll send you one for free if yours is cracked. Bill

 

[seadooya]

if you ever get pulled over, and they look at the inside of yuor ski, I think they will impound it, or atleast, give yuo one fat-a$$ ticket, for not having proper fuel lines.

Go to autozone, and get about 15-20 feet of 1/4in "FUEL LINE", and not THE "INJECTION" fuel line with the inner blue "coating", but regular fuel line, and swap out all that crap that yuor boat has.

 

[Kawika]

Yes, right to tite, left to loose. Someone may have LOST the O-ring, thinking "I'll
tighten the crap out of it". I'll send you one for free if yours is cracked. Bill

Thanks Bill you rock...i really appreciate it. I'll check tomorrow.

 

[Kawika]

if you ever get pulled over, and they look at the inside of yuor ski, I think they will impound it, or atleast, give yuo one fat-a$$ ticket, for not having proper fuel lines.

Go to autozone, and get about 15-20 feet of 1/4in "FUEL LINE", and not THE "INJECTION" fuel line with the inner blue "coating", but regular fuel line, and swap out all that crap that yuor boat has.

Seriously? I didn't realize that. I figured if I went with the clear lines i can at least see what the hell is going on!

 

[Kawika]

If you looking at it from the bottom, upside down with the white bowl pointing at you, it turns off in a counter clockwise direction from the black top cap.
The idea is to first look in the bowl and look for sediment or water at the bottom of the bowl as water ans sediment is heavier and denser and settles on the bottom under the fuel.

Karl

Karl, I did this and here's what i found. Sediment is definitely in there. Almost looks like green seaweed from sushi remnants LOL. Anyway, what do i do next by chance? Also, how should i clean this and with what? No presence of water in there. Thanks again in advance.

 

[Kawika]

Forgot to add the pic....

 

[seadooya]

Seriously? I didn't realize that. I figured if I went with the clear lines i can at least see what the hell is going on!

yup...also those lines will dry-out and crack or fall off the fittings or cause you to draw air...no good my brother.

Clean the bowl out with a rag or carb cleaner...

 

[Kawika]

yup...also those lines will dry-out and crack or fall off the fittings or cause you to draw air...no good my brother.

Clean the bowl out with a rag or carb cleaner...

Thanks man I appreciate that info. Do i have to refill back up with gas and reinstall, or is it ok to just reinstall the mag filter empty?

 

[Kawika]

Ok...so i ran the ski Sunday after doing all this and wanted to test it out again because I changed the plugs to see what the result looked like, as well as see if there was any improvement. The ski definitely revvs....revvs like it wants to go a hell of a lot faster...It has NO issue revving, no bogging etc...It's almost like the ski has a delay with acceleration. I can tell that the motor runs strong, but the MPH doesn't climb like they should, nor is the top end..only approx 38 mph max. Smokes a lot....this is my first ski but i can tell that it's gotta be the air/fuel mixture...I'm assuming that it's always gonna smoke more at start up....but not quite the whole time? Pulled the plugs and the brand new plugs were black and wet. In Seadoo Snipes sparkplug sticky thread, mine were definitely #1 or #2 in his pics of plugs from rich to lean. So i'm assuming that the high speed screws need to be adjusted ever so slightly and tested/run till it's right. Correct me if i'm wrong, but seems that they need to be turned in 1/12th incriments?

 

[Bills86e]

Open the gas cap. If you get a big expell, your problem is a clogged breath check valve that vents under the rub rail. Excess pressure in the tank can FORCE the needle to open from the seat. An engine that vibrates alot contributes also. Bills86e

 

[Bills86e]

if you ever get pulled over, and they look at the inside of yuor ski, I think they will impound it, or atleast, give yuo one fat-a$$ ticket, for not having proper fuel lines.

Go to autozone, and get about 15-20 feet of 1/4in "FUEL LINE", and not THE "INJECTION" fuel line with the inner blue "coating", but regular fuel line, and swap out all that crap that yuor boat has.

That info only applies to 587 thru 720's, His motor/ski is 787cc. Feet & size amount are incorrect.