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99 SPX Voltage Issues?

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Just go drop $25 on 1/4" fuel line and use your new selector. Zero waiting involved.

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I actually have an extra roll of it, there is one problem tho. On the 99 it uses all 5/16" lines, I tried putting 1/4" lines over it, but it won't go. It's too small.
 
I though you said you have a 1/4l fuel selector, our did I read that wrong

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Your right, I do have a 1/4" selector. When I bought it I didn't realize that it had 5/16" lines on it, and I just used it anyways
 
So what am I missing? You have 1/4" fuel line in hand and a new 1/4" selector.......so run 1/4" fuel line. They did it in 95, 96 and probably 97 and 98 XP's and SPX's with 787's.

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The 1/4" line will not fit over the barbs on the fuel sender that goes into the tank. Or the water separator. I'm just going to have to buy a new selector I think unless I can find a reducer tomorrow
 
And there the missing details, the sender and the separator are 5/16. I figured the were 1/4, like the barbs on the carbs probably are.

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Hit Home Depot, plumbing department and get your adapters. At mine they're by the sump pumps and tubing/hoses. Brass fittings would be the best. Or pep boys would probably have them too if you have one near you.

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Our just go from the fuel baffle direct to the separator, no shut off valve to see if that helps. And it's free!

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Run from reserve on the baffled to the separator, to the carbs, return like normal. Run the ON hose from the baffle to the selector set to OFF or somehow plug it. This eliminates the selector as a possible issue.

I really think your issue is with the needle leaking off with the covers all buttoned up. Check those again. 10 psi for 30 seconds plus.
 
Update. All four of my carb bolts were loose. I'm wondering if I forgot to tighten them on Friday or what. I doubt it, but I'll be using loctite this time. Strizzo, your right, the arm was bent slightly upwards on both carbs, I leveled it to flush with a razor blade. It didn't hold the required pressure, and can't test it til morning as the diaphragms are swollen from the gas. I'll report back in the morning. Feeling a little more confident after all these discoveries today. Leaky gas lines, bent arm, loose carb bolts. It all adds up. Going to the lake tomorrow Eve and strap it down on the trailer and see what it does
 
I'm so disappointed. Fixed every issue I could find. I leveled the arms on the carbs and it held pressure a little better, hardly leaked at all on the 10 psi test. Bypassed the fuel selector, got rid of the aftermarket fuel filter. It fired right up on the trailer, idled better than it ever had by far and away, and just sounded like a healthy seadoo should. No more erratic idle, I had the idle set at 3250 on the trailer and just sat there and purred and didn't hardly move at all. Rev it up and it would come right back down to the 3250. Thought it was 100 percent fixed. Killed the engine. Let it sit 10 minutes. Fired right back up with a touch of the button. Took it to the lake to dunk the ski in to make sure it would run right for the trip.....

Wouldn't start in the water. Pulled out of the water. Fired right up. Started it and then dunked it in the water, died within like 4 seconds of the pump getting in. It would only idle if I turned up the throttle to like 2500 rpms, tried all different settings on the low speed. None of them made a difference really. Here is what I don't understand. I hook it up to the hose. Runs perfect. So I don't think it is a water ingestion issue or leaking gasket, but honest to God, I think the engine is just tired and needs to be replaced/major work.

I thought it was figured out for a great fourth weekend, but it looks like we'll be taking only 2 skis and not my spx. I'll be forced to bring the old reliable Yammy.

Sigh.
 
something's still not totally right with the needle if its leaking off, even just a little.

What did you find when you pulled the manifold? You said the o ring was stretched out but did you check the rotary valve clearance while you were in there?
 
There is just no way that the little 1 psi it loses in the 20 seconds that it would cause this. Start and idles fine on trailer, fires right back up.

I did not check the rotary clearance, I didn't have any solder. The rv looked really good tho. It was timed perfectly. I'm about 99% sure now the problem lies in the engine, I don't think it has ever run right. It has had a new cb shaft before, and I think the crank and pistons are original. I'm starting to think crank seal
 
I agree that the running issue isn't being caused by the carbs. I wonder if you pull the choke if it will affect the idle in the water?
 
I didn't even think of that. On this ski, especially when starting, it will not start with the choke on. It is basically useless for this ski it seems.
 
Dang CR, haven't been online in a while and just seen all the issues you were having with the SPX.... And I am stumped as to the solution.... Do you really think the issue is in the motor? 142 psi in each hole is more than enough to keep it running, I've seen skis with 135 run in the water.... Even with bad crank seals you shouldn't be experiencing what you are... Plenty of skis have bad crank seals and run a long time.... I know you've been through the carbs 100 times but there has to be something there... I have a spare RV cover and set of carbs if you want to try them out on your way to the lake....
 
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