99 SPX 800 rebuild

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Is there a list, or thread with all required components for a top and bottom end rebuild? Parts, seals, gaskets etc.
I'd like to compile a list of everything I need for pricing and to save multiple trips/orders.
Carb rebuild and fuel lines have already been done and I will be doing the carbon wear ring as well.

Where can I pick up the alignment tool when I go to re install, I saw one shim had fallen out when I was moving the motor around to pull it and I did not see where it came from.

Thanks in advance.
 
Is there a list, or thread with all required components for a top and bottom end rebuild? Parts, seals, gaskets etc.
I'd like to compile a list of everything I need for pricing and to save multiple trips/orders.
Carb rebuild and fuel lines have already been done and I will be doing the carbon wear ring as well.

Where can I pick up the alignment tool when I go to re install, I saw one shim had fallen out when I was moving the motor around to pull it and I did not see where it came from.

Thanks in advance.

You can buy the alignment tool from SBT for $150 and they have a return policy or rental if you return it within 30, 60 days etc. I think it's 50% money back if you return it within 30 days.

I did a rebuild on the 787 on my GTX. Budget about $1000. Here's an idea what you'll need, I don't know of a 'list' anywhere. Top end piston kit, crankshaft, full engine gasket set (WSM sells), degree wheel (if you don't have it), cylinders sent out for boring or re sleeve, possible RV cover machining(ck clearance during assembly), loctite 515 (red), loctite 242 (blue), thread eze, three bond 1184 (or similar for mating cases), synthetic grease, lithium grease, good torque wrench and sockets.

If you're doing a crankshaft core swap be prepared to wrestle getting the pto flywheel off. You'll need a big heavy vice, splined prop tool, and big breaker bar (4ft +). You'll need to get the mag flywheel off, it can be a fight also. I used a steering wheel puller and an impact gun. Not required, but you may want to chase or tap the threads of the holes on everything to get good torque values. I don't know the tap thread pitch needed right off, I have a metric tap/die set, most on the engine is either M8 or M10 bolts.

Follow the service manual closely, Seadoo has some unusual requirements and procedures for assembly.
 
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You can buy the alignment tool from SBT for $150 and they have a return policy or rental if you return it within 30, 60 days etc. I think it's 50% money back if you return it within 30 days.

I did a rebuild on the 787 on my GTX. Budget about $1000. Here's an idea what you'll need, I don't know of a 'list' anywhere. Top end piston kit, crankshaft, full engine gasket set (WSM sells), degree wheel (if you don't have it), cylinders sent out for boring or re sleeve, possible RV cover machining(ck clearance during assembly), loctite 515 (red), loctite 242 (blue), thread eze, three bond 1184 (or similar for mating cases), synthetic grease, lithium grease, good torque wrench and sockets.

If you're doing a crankshaft core swap be prepared to wrestle getting the pto flywheel off. You'll need a big heavy vice, splined prop tool, and big breaker bar (4ft +). You'll need to get the mag flywheel off, it can be a fight also. I used a steering wheel puller and an impact gun. Not required, but you may want to chase or tap the threads of the holes on everything to get good torque values. I don't know the tap thread pitch needed right off, I have a metric tap/die set, most on the engine is either M8 or M10 bolts.

Follow the service manual closely, Seadoo has some unusual requirements and procedures for assembly.

Thank you for the tips, I'll do some investigating into the service manual before diving in.
I'm almost positive I have got lucky and there is no scoring on the cylinder walls, they look pretty good from what I have seen. I was going to hone and re install, do you know the tolerances (or is this in the FSM) for the cylinder walls? I can measure it out to confirm if I need to resleeve.

Knock on wood, I hate bringing out the tap set.... hopefully chasing the holes to clean them up is the only reason it needs to be out!
 
You need to measure the bores with an actual bore gauge and the specs are in the manual. Don’t just guess and hone.
 
You need to measure the bores with an actual bore gauge and the specs are in the manual. Don’t just guess and hone.
Will do, I have some resources for that. I guess because the car block I rebuilt was fully machined I did not get involved in that stage of the process.
 
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