99 Seadoo GTX eratic idle

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Hello all new to this forum and to the jetski world.
So I just picked up this 99 GTX Limited.
went to the lake and has several issues.
#1 Speedometer does not work at low speed and goes in and out at high.
#2 while idling out past the no wake zone sometimes it will start to studder or even die.
seems to run great at mid to high end then idles fine and does ok for a bit and does it again.
Spark plugs look pretty good and are NGK BR8ES plugs.
All I know is it is a 2 cylinder, 2 stroke fuel injection Rotax.
It runs great and I learn quick on engines and such. just wonder if anyone could steer me down correct path.
Thanks all.
 
The 99' GTX Limited is not a fuel injected ski. If it is maroon and white then it is a 99' GTX limited carbed ski.

Sounds to me like your low speed fuel circuit might be dirty. Pretty common on these that have not had the carbs serviced in a long time.

Speedometer is probably the little paddle wheel on the back of the shi.
 
I was just writing about the paddle wheel when I saw this new message popup. The wheel is dented, Check if it is in one piece, no dents missing. Make sure also that it spins freely. Mine often get stuck as soon as it picks a few grains of sand.
 
I was just writing about the paddle wheel when I saw this new message popup. The wheel is dented, Check if it is in one piece, no dents missing. Make sure also that it spins freely. Mine often get stuck as soon as it picks a few grains of sand.
Agreed, the speedometers are unreliable at best.
 
Update paddle wheel not dented and spins free
sometimes it wil read after 15 mph sometimes not
im thinking it may be defective will order new one.
other issues are fuel guage does not work at all and sometimes it just shuts off'
I have to remove key reinsert and then restart.
its like you pull the key off but that switch is fine
low erratic idle so I think carbs need serviced previous ower said was fuel injecjected but it is carb
 
You really need to go through the whole fuel system. The erratic idle and shutdown are both symptoms of fuel system problems...

1.) Make sure you have no grey fuel lines in the ski. They should be black automotive type lines.

2.) Make sure the filter/separator is clean and that the o ring is sealing well.

3.) Replace your fuel selector valve. They are inexpensive and not worth even attempting to clean. Many times trying to clean them damages them further.

4.) Rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni parts. Follow the carb rebuild sticky in the forum.
 
Matt has an excellent question! Make sure the compression is there before you spend any more money on the ski...
 
Start/Stop button sticking based on the quitting out of the blue like it was turned off? grey fuel lines are bad news that will cause carburetor problems, if compression is good those carbs should be rebuilt if not recently.

Whenever running issues pop up, replace spark plugs using the two spares you carry in the dry tool kit.
 
ok update
only had the grey lines on the return
I replaced them and 2 new NGK BR8ES plugs as that's what was in it.
jumped over the fuel sending leads guage peged so sending unit is bad.
speedo still comes and goes
will order new speed wheel sensor and fuel sending unit.
However took back to the lake today ran great for about 30 min then all the sudden stopped in the water
will not move forward or reverse just has a whinning to shrieking noice everytime you hit the throttle.
And no was now ruffing around just cruisein about 20 mph when happened.
what are some quick things to check maybe shaft drive, or pump or wear sleeve is what I have seen so far on youtube .
thanks for all the help
 
The pump is the first place to look. Just go ahead and pull it, because you have a few things to check. See if you have any wear ring left. If it was gouged up already, it may have just come apart on you under throttle. Then pull the cone off and see if there is milky oil in it or an obviously damaged bearing. At this point you can take a look at the driveshaft and it’s splines too. I bet you find something wrong in one of those places...
 
update pulled reverse plate and outer rear housing
prev ower said had new pump and wear plate in it
spun impeller and noticed not connected to engine.
remover cover over rear engine found shaft is sping inside of the round hub on back of engine has about 8 allen bolts
so would prob be shaft end or hub on back of engine.
now do I have to remove pump housing or will shaft move enough to remove hub from engine
am I on right track here
 
Pull the pump. It’s possible to move the motor forward, but it’s easier to just pull the pump and leave everything else in place. It sounds like you’ve stripped the splines on the PTO shaft...
 
ok splines are there and look good but very loose inside the hub on engine.
pump is off but can not get shaft out as there is a collar on shaft that will not clear boot
collar is on shaft just in front of rubber boot how to remove
also found a grease fitting on hub that has not been greased in awhile
wear ring looks good getting dark so feel feeler guage in morning
I guess it does help that I am a automotive mechanic huh
 
Oh ok found a picture of and there is a c clip
so removed and then shaft my problem now is I have found by part number 272000160 in two differ lengths
20 5/8 or 20 an 3/4
problem I have is mine is 21 inches long whats the deal
 
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my apologies I had not thought about how far I got off the original post.
Hope I have not bothered anyone and thank you for all the help
all parts on order yay I cant wait
happy watering to all
 
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