98' GTS Fuel Flow issue

[dwinch]

Repair procedures

Are there any tricks or gotcha's in this job like the removal of the carbs that I should know about? Adjustments necessary? Is it simple enough that I can just figure it out by taking everything apart or should I refer to an official repair manual? Where would I obtain that information if necessary (free preferably.) Is there an acceptable replacement fuel line from an auto parts store or should I go to Sea Doo? Thanks again.

Dean

 

[daverade]

f seadoo..lol, go to autozone for fuel line and hose clamps...allow yourself some time...its an easy job... and it always is helpfull to own a repair manual...you could become a premium member and get it free...

 

[LouDoo]

Carbs.

Dean,

I posted a link on this thread to another thread about carb. overhaul. It has 4 pdf files showing how to remove the carbs and overhaul, you will only need the first file to show you where the fuel filters are and how to remove them.

Lou

 

[dwinch]

Thanks

Thanks Lou. You've been very helpful.

Dean

 

[dwinch]

Parts or gasket materials needed

Am I going to need any gaskets or materials for putting this back together? As I understand it from the pic in the link you included, I should only need to take the cover off of the two carbs to get at the filters. If I clean these and do nothing else (like the high and low jet orifices etc) then I should be good right? Change fuel lines, clean filters in carbs, clean filter on tank top, clean selector valve. Will regular carb cleaner do or is there a better recommended (less harmful) product? 20ft or 25ft of auto grade flexible fuel line? Number of clamps needed? I noticed a type of clamp on some of the smaller lines going to the carb that I am not familiar with. Is there a trick to getting these off? Are they a once-and-done type that needs to be destroyed to remove them? I decided I'm going to do this myself. Thanks.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Fuel Lines

Hi Dean,

If you're careful you shouldn't need any new gaskets for the carbs, I didn't. If I remember correctly it tells you how to remove the carb covers in the other thread. Also be careful when you remove the carbs. not to damage the base gasket (carbs. to engine).

As far as any other materials you might need, I can't think of any. I wouldn't try to reuse the existing clamps (they are too small for the black fuel lines anyway), all you need to do is pull on the old fuel lines, they will come right off. I suppose if you wanted to save a little money you could use cable ties (use high quality black ones) on the vent lines, should you choose to replace them, and on the carb. fuel return line. Other than that use the stainless steel hose clamps.

I used Gumout Carb. Cleaner in the aerosol can to clean the filters, without a problem. However I have read elsewhere not to use carb. cleaner. You could use hot soapy water, or maybe brake cleaner. Maybe somebody else has some input on this.

Good Luck, Have Fun,

Lou

 

[dwinch]

The instructions in the link say to use soapy water, then alchohol, and blow dry for the carb filters. They appeared to be a small metal screens framed in brass. I did not see any plastic though someone mentioned that on here. Plastic could be distorted by a strong chemical. I am going to do this with the intent of replacing the fuel lines only and cleaning everything else. I may leave the vent lines alone since they are not part of the delivery system. Do you know if the hose between the two carbs needs to go as well? it looks about 3 inches long. After the job is done I will run some fuel additive gumout product through it to make sure it clears out anything I missed or perhaps the jet orifices inside the carbs. Thanks for all your advice. You helped a lot in making the decision to do this on my own. With any luck I'll have it up and running again this weekend to make up for my lousy fathersday. Take care.

 

[LouDoo]

Carbs.

Dean,

Yes you will need to replace the two short pieces of fuel hose between the carbs. one is the fuel line from carb 1 to carb 2, and the other the fuel return line.

I didn't have the advantage of the pictorial of the carbs when I did mine, so soap, water, and alchol sounds o.k. for cleaning the carb filters, I think I just replaced the main filter, which is plastic and filter material.

Carb cleaner should be fine if you clean the fuel selector valve, I would recommend replacing it.

Lou

 

[daverade]

yo Dean... the lil filters in the carb have a plastic cage, and fabric screens, carb and choke cleaner will eat them alive.... as long as you got the carb ALL the way apart you can clean them with the carb cleaner... also about the gaskets, the only gaskets that might get messed up (if all gaskets ARE in good shape) would be the carb to intake gaskets...when you go to pull the carbs off...finesse...start with one side of the carb or the other and work it one way the gasket should stay in one piece and you wont have to replace it...leave it to whatever it sticks to...ie.. on one of my ski's one gasket stayed on the intake the other, stuck to the carb..i just left them, put them back togather, no problems with leaks at all...if you need to the parts section at the top has the replacements...and their cheap...good luck.. sorry im no comp guru, more gear head, so im not that good at all the copying pdf's add this transfer that...hope i could be some help atleast...

 

[dwinch]

Thanks guys for all your help. I will keep you posted on how it all went when I am done. I just need to run it over to the lake about 15 minutes from here and put it the water for one last troubleshooting tryout. I want to make sure it's still doing the same thing whether I am in normal or reserve with the selector valve. I also need to run the gas out of the lines with the selector shut off so I don't end up with a bunch of gas in my bildge when I start to take things apart. Thanks again.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Thinking

Hi Dean,

I was thinking while I was just cutting the grass.

You seem to be leary about cleaning the carb filters. This is just a suggestion, why don't you do the carb. filters last? You can replace all the fuel lines without removing the carbs. Clean the main filter, replace or clean the fuel valve.

Get a couple of bottles of Gumout Carb. & Injector Cleaner at Walmart. Use one bottle with each of the next 2 fill ups (use the small bottles, there about $2.00 each). And see how it goes. The fuel delivery system will be clean to the carbs, and the worst that can happen is you would need to clean the carb filters later, maybe the filters are not that bad and they might clear themselves. My carb filters were not too bad when I cleaned them.

The only thing you would have to do twice if remove the breather box, mine has been off so many times it almost removes itself.

Anyway just a thought. Dave what do you think?

Lou

 

[daverade]

the thing most people ae "leary" about is the actual carb "rebuild" as all of us probably were too...i would like to say yes do it, but i think at absolute least pull the filters, for you only have to pull the pto carb to get to them both, clead those reinstall then use the gumout...only reason i say this is those screens are super thin like 200micron or sumpin...i dunno if it would clear out... then you gotta get back in there... i rebuilt mine then filled the tanks half full of 110 octane and topped off with 97, hopefully if anything was left behind it wont stand up to the about 100 octane total mix!!!!! but you know if you absolutely dont wanna do it try the gumout first, then if need be do the filters...it sure would be crappy to see a thread from you in a month or so "lean out locked up"...not to scare you or that it even will happen but it is a possiblity with the carb filters even partially clogged.

 

[dwinch]

The deed is in progress

Dave and Lou,

Not to fear gentlemen. I have successfully disassembled my fuel delivery system. I have all of the fuel lines out, the main fuel filter, the selector valve, and the airbox. It turns out that I have only one carb. The access panel for the carb filter is on the top and within easy access without having to physically remove the carb. I took the top cover off and block and, viola, there was that little tiny carb filter. And man, I mean tiny. It was covered in black junk (not green goo.) The main filter was relaitvely clean. The ends of the fuel lines show evidence of the green goo but it doesn't appear to have clogged up the selecor valve. It is basically all over the ends of the lines and connection points. Tell me...why do the two long lnes going to the carb have splice connectors in the middle of them? I am going to make them one long line rather than reinstall splices. I am soaking the main filter and carb filter in a solution of hot water and Simple Green soap. I cleaned out the inside of the tiny carb filter with a damp Q-tip to get the particles and residue out. I rinsed them in cold water and left them out to dry overnight on a cloth rag. Tomorrow I am going to measure the lengths of the pieces I took out to see how much I need and go to Advance Auto Parts for the fuel line. It is a dollar a foot. It doesn't look like I will need more than about 12 to 15 feet of it. I will also need six wormscrew clamps as I have six that came off the system, for a total of 12. Taking that airbox off was a pain in the ass, but once I did, there it all was, and easy to get to. I will clean the selector valve and the inlet pipes of the carb with carb cleaner befrore I reassemble everything. I will then run some fuel additive through the system on the next couple of tanks of gas per your suggestion. Thanks for all your help.

Dean
Cincinnati, OH

P.S.
When I took it out to the lake last night it seemed to clear itself out however it wasn't running nearly as fast as it used to. I knew something was up with the fuel for sure. I hope this takes care of it.

 

[dwinch]

New problem: Backfiring

I have replaced my fuel lines, cleaned the main fuel filter above tank, and cleaned the small filter in my single carb. I put it all back together and it started right up. As I was running water through it to keep it cooled while I leak checked it, I started to rev it up to full speed. It never made full power and would backfire at full throttle instead. I don't understand how this could be happening. I didn't mess with anything on the carb or change any settings. I just took the cover and block off to get at the filter. I cleaned it, inspected it, and put it back. I understand that the backfiring may have something to do with the fuel/air mixture being too lean or too rich, but I'm not sure what to do, since I never messed with any of that stuff. I noticed a small screw like mechanism with a little T-handle on it on the side of the carb. Is this the mixture adjustment? Do I need to mess with it? I have brand new spark plugs in it. They were new before this backfiring problem started. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dean
Cincy, OH

 

[LouDoo]

Backfiring

Hi Dean,

I think, my carburetor might be different than yours, the screw with the T through it is the low speed screw, the factory setting is all the way in and then back the screw off 1 1/2 turns. The high speed screw is on the other side of the carb, and the factory setting is also 1 1/2 turns from stop.

I'm not sure you should be reving to full throttle with the ski out of the water. If possible take the ski to the lake and try it in the water. If it were me I would do this before tinkering with the carbs.

Another possibility is you could have an air leak due to a bad gasket on the carb., but if you can take it to the water first.

Lou

 

[dwinch]

I was running it with the garden hose hooked up to the water line on the engine (like when you backflush it) though I didn't have the exit side pinched off like I would If I were backflushing it. This should supply enough cooling water shouldn't it? If this isn't enough cooling water then would it be a reason for the backfire? What gasket would you be talking about that would be leaking air? I noticed that the block had what appeared to by a clear celophane type material over one side of it. This item had two small black rubber thingies in it that I think are check valves. At any rate, the celophane material was in tact and I was careful not to puncture it. The other item I noticed is what I think is called the diaphram on the carb body itself. Once again, a thin delicate material that I was careful not to pucture or tear. If I did and didn't notice it, would this possibly be part of my problem? Thanks.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Backfiring

Hi Dean,

I guess what i'm trying to say is you are running the ski without a load, i'm not sure you are getting all of the lubrication and cooling that you should. Personally I would never run mine at over 3000 rpm out of the water. You need to pinch off the other side of the hose as most of the water will be exiting out the back. If you don't have a hose pincher a C clamp will do. The best thing in my opinion would be to take it to the lake.

It's been a while since I did mine but I thought my carbs had a gasket between the cover, (where the fuel enters the carb.) and the carb. body. Thats where I thought you might have an air leak. Since you didn't have to remove the carb. the base gasket (carb. to engine) should be O.K.

Anyone else out there have any ideas, Dave?

Lou

 

[dwinch]

Seal between cover and carb

There is a clear seal between the cover and the block (the next piece in line before the carb body.) I never actually removed the carb from the engine because I didn't have to.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Misinformation

Dean,

I had a little time while I was watching TV and looked at the manual about carburetors. The screw with the T on it is actually the throttle stop screw.
The screw, its almost at the base of the carb. on the linkage side is the low speed screw, the screw on the other side of the carb, where the gas line connects is the high speed screw.

Lou

 

[dwinch]

Do I need to do something with these screws? I didn't mess with them when I did the fuel line job. Somebody else said something about a rev limiter. Do you know anything about that? I am not familiar with it other than what its name obviously implies. Would this be affected by how I was running water through it with my hose attached to the backflush water line? I'm wondering if this supports your hypothosis that I was not on the lake and the engine didn't have a full load of water running through it. I am going to take it to the lake early tomorrow morning and see what it does.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Carb.

Dean,

I wouldn't adjust the carb speed screws, I was only answering your question. Take it to the lake, and see if it runs O.K., before you do anything else. Since you are running it out of water the rev. limiter might be causing the problem.

Lou

 

[dwinch]

You were right

Lou,

You were right! I took it to the lake and it ran fine. Not one backfire and full power. One small thing I am wondering about though...the last inch of throttle travel has no additional power response. Is this a throttle stop adjustment or is there "an inch more" of power I could be getting out of it? Just curious. My idle RPM is around 1450. I hope I didn't do any damage trying to run it up to full power on the trailer. Thanks for all your help.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

Great

Hi Dean,

I'm glad to hear that your ski did well. Your rpm of 1450 at idle is dead on, I think the specs. is 1500, but if you are that close I would leave it alone. As far as the extra inch play in the throttle is concerned, the cable has probably stretched over the years, if you want to take out the play there are two adjuster nuts located at the carb. linkage, you could run these in a few turns to take out the slack, or you could just leave it alone, its up to you.

I doubt that you did any damage to the ski, that what the rev. limiter is for, and its running fine now.

I noticed that you live in Cincinnati, I live in Lexington, maybe we could meet somewhere to ride.

Lou

 

[dwinch]

Lou,

Thanks for the advice and info. Yes, I live just East of Cincinnati in the burbs. I'm about 15 minutes to the largest Ohio State Park lake called East Fork. When I used to live in Cleveland I went out on Lake Erie all the time. I miss that water. That is a good ride. Where do you ride? We might be able to get together sometime. I think Lexington is only an hour and a half away.

Dean

 

[LouDoo]

The Lake

Dean,

Yea, we're about 1-1/2 hours from you. Our son lives in Park Hills, KY, works for Comair, he's about 1:15 from us.

I usually go to Herrington Lake, it's kinda small, but its long, and has some interesting features. It's also close, 40 mins. away.

Here's my Email address: loustrau@insightbb.com

Lou