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98' GTS Fuel Flow issue

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dwinch

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I have a 1998 GTS that is experiencing what seems to be a fuel related issue at higher throttle settings. At least I think its a fuel problem. It starts fine. It idles fine. It moves along at slower speeds with no apparent bogging down or interuption in fuel delivery. It isn't until you open it up that all of a sudden it starts to sputter intermittently and bog down in a cyclic or rythmic fashion. The symptom appears to be frequency related in its behavior. Do I have a fuel pump problem? Fuel Filter? Could It be as simple as spark plugs? I just know the problem seems to be sporadic and mostly at higher speed. It doesnt' seem to be making full speed at all and when it starts bogging down it even stalls out sometimes. I don't normally work on these things but I am an aircraft mechanic on jet engines for a living. I'm not sure where everything is on these or what they have, but I am willing to do it myself if I can find a manual and get some reliable feedback on this forum. I am hoping that this is something obvious that all of you have seen before and get several responses back pointing to the same thing as the problem. If I start to get answers all over the place on this one it is going to confuse me and I will just take it to some place and get raped in service charges. I am the original owner for 12 years. It has about 70 hours total on it and I have never had a problem with it. I've only changed spark plugs and batteries and maintained it per the intructions in the owners manual (backflushing, winterization, etc.) I have always run Bombardier synthetic oil in it and 87 octane gas. This was my first run of the season. I had about 1/3 to a half tank of gas in it from last year that I had some Stabil added to. I don't know if that could be part of the problem or not, because I topped off the tank with fresh gas before taking it out. I appreciate any feed back or help you can provide on this one. Thanks.

Dean
 
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The pump is inside the carbs and so is the last fuel filter screens, they can be cleaned without a complete overhaul, go slowly when you open the diaphrams, have you cleaned the water/fuel filter bowl under the handlebars, how can you actually see the fuel flowing? any blockage in the selector, lines will result in a leanout, clean out the steel gas can trash from everywhere first. Also mark the oil tank to be sure it is drinking, use the same oil as the last owner or you risk having a gel that jamms the nozzles causing burn out.
What is the battery voltage, if over 15 you have a rectifier causing your lo power symptoms, remove the red wire and try again.
 
Fuel Lines?

Hi,

Have you changed the original gray fuel lines? If not you might want to change them, clean or replace the fuel valve, clean fuel filter and clean carb filters. There are threads on this forum on how to do this.

At $2.00 ea. I would also change the spark plugs.

Lou
 
I'm not sure about gray fuel lines. The main fuel line from tank to carb is clear with an inline white plastic fuel filter. I am not sure where the fuel valve lives. Is that on the carb? I have thought about the spark plugs. Do you think they would cause this kind of behavior at higher speeds? Thanks for your input.

Dean in Cincinnati
 
Fuel Lines

Hi Dean,

Your SeaDoo must have been modified from its original configuration.

There should be a baffel insert in the fuel tank, with four fuel lines, one is the vent which you can ignore. One line comes from the fuel filter, one line is reserve, one is main. One line is the return from the carbs.

If the fuel lines are gray they need to be changed, if they are black or another color they already have been changed.

The fuel valve is located on the dash, and there is a main filter located above the fuel tank.

If this is not the case, I would suggest taking it to a dealer.

Lou
 
Fuel Lines

Dean,

The fuel tank is located directly under the handlebars. To access the fuel tank open the front hatch, and remove the tub.

Lou
 
How many fuel filters are in the system? I thought there was just the white inline one from the tank to the carb.

Dean
 
Fuel Filters

Dean,

As far as I know there are three fuel filters, the main filter above the fuel tank, and one filter inside each of the two carbs. The inline filter was either added or you might be confusing the oil filter which is between the oil tank and the engine and uses a clear line.

Lou
 
Thanks. I think I am confusing the oil filter with the fuel. I thought the clear line was the fuel, but taking a closer look I see it goes to the oil tank. Which fuel filter is most likely to be a problem, the tank or carbs? I imagine the tank filter is much easier to change or clean if possible.

Dean
 
carbs, carbs, carbs....WAAAAAY more likely the problem....do you have GRAY "tempo" fuel lines.... the reason people fuss about this is because they break down and form a blue gew that clog's everything...
 
Fuel Filters

Dean,

The main fuel filter is easier to change or clean.

To clean the filters in the carbs you need to remove the carbs from the engine.

In my opinion it is useless to change and clean the filters unless you replace the gas lines. The fuel lines deteriate and produce a green goo which clogs the filters. You will also need to clean the fuel selector valve.

There are several threads on this forum that will tell you how to do this.

Lou
 
easier is not better here. i will agree that the main filter is easier to service, but most likely not ur problem... i will also agree it is almost pointless to change/clean carb filters unless you replace fuel lines... they'll just re-clog, i would say dont waste time ''cleaning" the old selector... F it and throw it as far as you can and get a new one.... there like $25 no biggy!!!!!!
 
Fuel Lines, Filters, etc.

I agree 100% with Dave, I did replace the fuel selector valve when I did my fuel lines. Only one slight problem, I replaced the valve with the new style, so now the off position is at the top rather than the bottom, not a big deal.

I also agree the problem is probably the filters in the carbs, if it were me I would do the entire job, however you don't need to replace the fuel vent line since this is not a part of the fuel delivery system.

Lou
 
yup, with the vent line it just depends on the condition of yours, most people dont do theirs... i had to there was a white gewey syrup coming out all the fittinga and the pressure release valve was clogged.... here in az it's 110 already and me tank was swellin up like a baloon....good luck
 
To all...thank you for your valuable input.

Changing all these fuel lines, valves, and filters seems like a pretty daunting job. One question before I go down that road: Is it most likely or probable that this is the cause of my symptom? The symptom is a rythmic bogging down at full throttle. It has a very frequency-natured behavior to it kind of like pumping up a bicycle tire with a hand pump. In, out, in, out...or in my case...it goes, it stops, it goes, it stops...only at full throttle. I would hate to get into changing all these parts to find out it may have been something completely different. Thanks again for or all your advice and help.

Dean
 
yep..almost gauranteed... dude this is all an easy job... i did both my ski's after owning them for 2 weeks... it took me a FULL weekend and about $150 but i got it done...$75 each...that included fuel selector valves... its really no hard job, just tedious... and though it may seem daunting. dont let it be just allow yourself plenty of time.. dont rush through it, if you run into trouble thread it. About getting into changing all these parts better now than when its too late. its not a question of if but when it WILL cause a serious problem.... there are many many guys on here that have done that, wait...have a lean out problem and just as quick as s*#t there goes $1000 on a new motor... when i read about all these things that will happen i prioritised the fuel system rebuild, i quickly realized the seriousness. and hope you do too
 
Fule Lines, Filters, etc.

Dean,

You're welcome, the job is not as big as it sounds, just do one hose at a time, and follow the original path.

I got my hose from KOI, its 1/4" carberator/fuel injecter hose, made by Gates, I ordered 25' but they only had 19' which was plenty to do the job, unless you decide to do the vent hoses, you will need 25'. The cost was about $2.00 per foot. Plus you will need about 15 stainless steel hose clamps, and maybe 10 zip ties.

You will probably have to order the fuel selector valve either on EBay or your dealer.

Not only did my ski run better, but the top end improved to about 52mph. Not bad for a 96 GTI, factory specs., 50mph.

Have Fun,

Lou
 
97 GTX pulsing after about 10 minutes running

sounds exactly like my problem. I have fuel line and clamps already. Will buy fuel selector switch tomorrow. My question is....the carb filters. Yesterday I took the plastic and stainless steel part of the carbs off but couldn't see filters. I read a previous post that said to drop the four bolts holding the outer cover, this is the one the fuel line is connected to. Well, I couldn't see the four bolts he was talking about so I put it all back together again. Is there somewhere where there are pics of where the carb filters are and do all machines have carb filters? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Kit?

Is there a kit available from Sea Doo or a dealer to do this job or do I have to piece it out? Just so I understand completely, I will need to change all gray colored fuel lines, the fuel selector valve, one fuel filter at top of tank and two fuel filter screens in carburators. Is this correct? Can any of these parts be cleaned and salvaged (valve, tank filter etc?)

I now understand why the owners manual had you evacuate the fuel lines when the machine was expected to sit for a while. Had I known this was the reason why I would have been more diligent about it. Instead, I left the fuel in the lines over winter with the thought that it would prevent any residual moisture from accumulating and rupturing a line when it froze in winter. This would have been the least of my worries. Letting that gas sit in there and work on melting the inside of my fuel lines is much worse. It must be all the detergents and additives they put in gas these days.

One last question: I know it sounds like a lazy man's way out, but it's worth asking anyway. Is there a fuel additive like a gum-out product that could be added to clear out the lines and filters? Thanks again for your help.:)

Dean
 
Fuel Flow

Hi Dean,

I did use a gumout product after I changed the fuel lines, just in case there was residual dirt in the system. I think it was Gumout Carb and Fuel Injector cleaner. I only did this as a precaution and after I did everything else. I really can't say if this helped or not.

Unless you change the fuel lines, clean or replace the filters and selector valve you are going to have the green goo in the fuel system.

Lou
 
Fuel Flow

Dean,

Sorry I didn't answer your other questions.

As far as a "Kit" is concerned, I doubt it. Even if one is available it probably has the same crap fuel line as originally provided. You can check with your dealer.

You can clean the main fuel filter and the carb filters, I used aerosol carb cleaner (the carb filters are not available except in a carb rebuild kit). You can clean the fuel selector valve, if you decide to clean it I would take it apart. I ordered a new fuel valve on EBay I think it was about $20.00 plus shipping.

I don't think leaving fuel in the system over the winter has anything to do with this problem, as long as you use a fuel stabalizer you should be able to leave the fuel in the system. The problem is SeaDoo probably took low bid on the fuel hose which deteriotes over time.

Lou
 
there the only fuel lines the USCG would approve...so they had to use them....there is no kit, you can go to seadoo and get 4' sections of the gray tempo but why do that? and one last thing it's been said not to clean the filters with carb cleaner... it can deteriorate thescreen and distort the plastic cage... i wanna know more about the gum-out... i too was wondering if there was an addative just incase i left any residule behind, is that what it is and where do you get it? one thing i dod for the first tank of gas after the rebuild i filled my tank half with 100 octane and half 93 octane, for that reason?
 
Gumout

Dave,

The Gumout Carb and Fuel Injector Cleaner, I bought at Wally World. Its the small bottle, I used one bottle for each of the next 2 tanks of gas.

Don't really know if it helped or not, but it was only $2.00 and I figured it couldn't hurt.

Lou
 
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