98 GTI Oil Injection/Lines Problem???

[scoogie_scott]

Help! 98 GTI Oil Injection/Lines Problem???

Hello,

I have 1998 GTI that I just rebuilt the carb on. When I give it WOT from idle, it wants to bog out. However, if I ever so slowly increase the the throttle I can eventually get it to run at full throttle. I've replaced all fuel lines and fuel filter, so I'm getting good clean gas through. I've noticed that it doesn't seem to be spitting out oil at the top of the carb like I think it's suppose to. Are there any known issues with this model ski and oil lines/pump? If this does sound like it could be the root of my problem, is switching to premix gas the better solution opposed to trying to fix it? Your help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[scoogie_scott]

bump .

 

[scoogie_scott]

Anybody? .

 

[LouDoo]

O.K. lets see if we can get this thread started. I don't think that the oil injection system is causing your problem. I'm not sure what you are looking for as oil in the carbs. This is a direct oil injection and it doesn't feed oil into the carbs.

It does sound like a fuel delivery problem. When you rebuilt the carbs. did you do a pop off test? When you replaced the fuel lines did you clean or replace the fuel selector valve?

Lou

 

[Bills86e]

Read up on carb adjustments, How-to section, or your shop manual. *Plugs wet or dry?
Replace your oil injection lines every two years.

 

[scoogie_scott]

O.K. lets see if we can get this thread started. I don't think that the oil injection system is causing your problem. I'm not sure what you are looking for as oil in the carbs. This is a direct oil injection and it doesn't feed oil into the carbs.

It does sound like a fuel delivery problem. When you rebuilt the carbs. did you do a pop off test? When you replaced the fuel lines did you clean or replace the fuel selector valve?

Lou

I just remember on a past yamaha ski i had, that it spit out oil at the top of carb. That's why i was assuming that this would do the same since there was a small line that appears to be coming from the oil pump to a valve towards the top of the carb.

I'm not familiar with a pop off test.
I did clean the fuel valve.

Thanks for the assistance.

Scott

 

[scoogie_scott]

Read up on carb adjustments, How-to section, or your shop manual. *Plugs wet or dry?
Replace your oil injection lines every two years.

I have the carb adjusted according to the manual. The other couple times I've rebuilt a carb, I adjusted to specs and had no problems.

Are you suppose to replace the lines every 2 years? Are they prone to clogging up? I haven't tried taking the lines off to check yet because those clamps are a pain in the butt and thought I would ask beforehand.

 

[scoogie_scott]

Here's one thing that may or may not be worth mentioning, as far as the carb goes. When I was rebuilding it, the only thing I wasn't able to replace was the o-ring on the needle valve because the screw holding the plate down stripped and I didn't feel like having to drill it out. If that o-ring were bad and needed replacing could that possibly be the exact reason for the problem I'm having?

 

[LouDoo]

The oil lines need to be replaced because they get brittle and you can throw away the clamps, use quality cable ties to install the new oil lines.

I'm going to let Bill or someone more knowledgable than me help you with your carbs. The only thing I have done to the carbs. on my skiis is clean the filters.

Lou

 

[Bills86e]

After two years they are brittle, crack & break, and are cause of many seadoo engine's death from NO LUBRICATION!

You will need 14" of 3/32"id tygon (weedeater fuel line). 6" on the mag rv spigot & 8" on the pto rv cylinder spigot. Dealers are now carrying
the clear line., so you can see the oil travel up from the injection pump to the two spigots as you hold the pump lever open to prime the oil lines. We recommend change out the oil filter too, every 2 years. Use marine Sta-bil t0 condition your fuel every tank fill.. this will keep your
rubber fuel lines & carb diaphrams from rotting because of Ethanol. Check your water separator/filter bowl before every launch.

If you'v ever owned a weed wacker, you'll know these small lines deteriorate in a very short life!

A squeeze with needle nose pliers helps to move the oil line secureing clip.

 

[scoogie_scott]

I will give it a try and see how it goes. Is there anything better than Needle nose pliers for trying to get those pesky clamps off?

 

[Bills86e]

Here's one thing that may or may not be worth mentioning, as far as the carb goes. When I was rebuilding it, the only thing I wasn't able to replace was the o-ring on the needle valve because the screw holding the plate down stripped and I didn't feel like having to drill it out. If that o-ring were bad and needed replacing could that possibly be the exact reason for the problem I'm having?

Here is an expert's Pictoralized link on removeing the valve body screw in a Mikuni carburetor.

http://www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html

I use my 18V impact drill/driver with #2 phillips bit. Thats just me tho. A pop-off tester is a must-have tool.
So YES, for crisp throttle responce, new needle/seat at every carb re-build!