97 xp compression low??

[md4]

i just recently bought this 97 xp and has been running great to recently. motor falls on its face at wot and has to be be babyed up to full throttle,( if itll actually get going that fast). Checked plugs and the back cylinder spark plug had micro metal flakes on it. I at that moment removed it from that lake and is sitting in my garage.

Ive done a compression check it both cylinders are at 100 psi.(ive heard that there's 2 different readings you can get from a cold engine and a warm engine. what one would i have to do for a proper reading?)

when it was running for the short last minutes it kinda sounded like it was not getting enough oil to lubricate the engine properly. im going to remove the oil pump shaft and put it back together but dono if that has anything to do with it.

im new to all this fun stuff so might be asking dumb questions but hell gotta learn sooner or later!!

any help would be GREAT thanks

 

[seadooya]

sorry bud, but that comp reading, wont work, once dunked into the water. Time for a rebuild.

 

[md4]

thats kinda what i was thinking just wanted to get more info. first.

Wheres a good place to buy a rebuild kit from? is it worth it to beef up the internals when i do the rebuild of leave it oem??

sorry bud, but that comp reading, wont work, once dunked into the water. Time for a rebuild.

 

[seadooya]

ebay

if doing the work, yourself. If only topend, then get a kit for 200 buks, if needs boring, i'd hit up Fullboreonline.com. If need a complete assy...rods, crank..assy, Playtime Powersports in FL, has complete assy for 430 buks.

 

[dsw222]

if doing the work, yourself. If only topend, then get a kit for 200 buks, if needs boring, i'd hit up Fullboreonline.com. If need a complete assy...rods, crank..assy, Playtime Powersports in FL, has complete assy for 430 buks.

i wish i would have found that full bore site before ordering a top end kit from SBT. woulda saved a couple hundred.

since i did order from SBT and the cylinders come bored 1mm over.... do i need to mod my RAVEs for clearance? the tech tips section of that site got me worried about the rings making contact with the RAVEs

 

[md4]

i would def. be doing the work myself, so im assumeing next step is to take heads off and inspoect and go from there on what to buy.

im new to this so ill get pics posted for everyones ideas on what to do thanks!

 

[6KJR]

Personally I wouldnt bother beefing much up if your looking for good reliability. If you havent gone through and read about fuel lines and carb cleaning, now is a good time to get them rebuilt too.. Lots of info on that here on the forum.

 

[seadooya]

i wish i would have found that full bore site before ordering a top end kit from SBT. woulda saved a couple hundred.

since i did order from SBT and the cylinders come bored 1mm over.... do i need to mod my RAVEs for clearance? the tech tips section of that site got me worried about the rings making contact with the RAVEs

Need to shave the raves back, man. Check out fullbore site, and he shows, where/how to do it. Being 1mm over, you'll need to take no more than .020 off

 

[md4]

i just got down to the pistons and rods.

the front cylinder looks clean in can still see cross hatch marks on the walls. the top of the piston rotates side to side smooth.

the back cylinder looks dirty, cant see cross hatch marks, and rotates back and forth rough.

i havent gone any further with tearing the engine down. im trying to save as much as possible but also get the job done right. im getting pics posted later today but anybody have a better idea of what went wrong here, or if i can just to a top end rebuild and go from there.

 

[seadooya]

pull cylinders and make sure the shims are on each side of rod, at crank assy

 

[md4]

does the entire motor have to be removed to check this?

i removed the valve cover head and cylinder walls all i have is the piston connected to the rod and below

might be a dumb question just again learning as i go

 

[md4]

front on the left and back on the right

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

front

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

back

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

[md4]

any ideas???

 

[dsw222]

umm... did you take pics of the lid that was on top of the cylinders?

what are you showing in those pics?

i thought you were gonna post pics of the pistons cylinders and crank?

 

[dsw222]

pull cylinders and make sure the shims are on each side of rod, at crank assy

look in your shop manual... seedooya is saying to remove the cylinders (which you said you did) and look at the side of the rod at the crank assembly to make sure there are shims in place

 

[md4]

ill take more pics in a couple minutes and get it posted

 

[md4]

both

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

front

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

back

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

both

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

front

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

back

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

[md4]

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

[93mustang97sea]

Is there scoring on the pistons or cylinders?

 

[md4]

its kinda hard to see but very little and everything is smooth to the touch, im going to take the pistons off and check the bearings in there

Is there scoring on the pistons or cylinders?

 

[md4]

anybody???

 

[Dr Honda]

Well.... from the pics... it doesn't look too bad. If the bearings in the crank are good... throw some rings in it, and go run it. But with the metal on the spark plug... I'd say there is damage in the crank, and it may be ready to give up.

 

[md4]

whats the best way to check out bearing on the lower half? does it have to be seperated?

everything feels firm and looks ok on the crank but cant say 100% i was hopeing to just do a top end rebuild kit and hope for the best

 

[md4]

Whats the best way to check the crank bearings??

 

[Dr Honda]

Just roll it. If you have any damage to the bearings... you will feel it.