97 XP acts like slipping transmission

[camera doc]

Ok so I know thats not possible, just trying to get some attention.
Been crusin this forum since I got the boat last summer and knew if or whenI had a problem I would join. Well here I am, ha ha.
Day 2 of the family vacation, left the machine with my 12 year old son and two 16 year old nephews. bad move!:stupid: So when I returned I went for a ride and imediately noticed that she reves like hell and just no go. roll off the throttle and do it real easy she will plane out. Ounce up its not so bad accept in waves of course.
I believe what problem I'm describing is indeed "cavatation"
got off the boat in 5' deep water and looked felt in the grate, nothin. Back side of the jet on the other hand could feel a good size stone lodged in there!
back to shore found a tool to knock out the stone and was hoping this would cure the problem. hmmmmm. not so much So here I am. Pulling her out of the water in this morning to get a better look. But after that I think shes grounded.
Wera ring? Prop? what else?
Comments and help appreciated everyone. Thanks in advance.
Terry

 

[97gsxRIDER]

honestly just try changing the plugs, it worked for me

 

[johnson2_r]

gona need a new wear right my friend possibly an in peller if its bent or chiped

 

[kustomkarl]

Usually if you remove the debris and it still has the problem, it might need the wear ring replaced. Here is some information to replacing the wear ring. Here is some information on replacing the wear ring.

For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil or similar.

Karl

 

[camera doc]

I was leaning toward wera ring as well.... Felt up inside from scoop and impellor feels a lill raggety< boo hisss! Saw something about the impellors that have a slightly different twist that work better on weedy lakes (home) and even better your chances of clearing a good size stone. Any thoughts?

 

[gsxgtxman]

The wear ring is definitely your problem. Take Karls advice and change. It takes about an hour to do.