97 sea doo

[dupes123]

Machine sat for a year, but ran fine before shut down. I got the machine going again and cleaned out carb and used several fuel treatments to run all of the bad gas out.

machine didn't idle on it's own, it now can. Usually have to start by using the choke for the machine to get fuel.

At times the machine has no power and will only run around 4500 rpm. Somtimes the machine runs around 6000 and then will go back to 4500. Get a power surge then it loses power, back and forth.

Can bad spark plugs cause this, or do I still have a fuel problem? Any suggestions would be great.

 

[kustomkarl]

Start at the beginning...dump all the old fuel, use it in the lawn mower. Start with fresh fuel. Clean the carbs real good using spray carb cleaner so all the passages are clean. Replace the spark plugs use NGK BR8ES gaped to .021-.024". If it has gray fuel lines replace them also as they deteriorate from the inside out. I see this same similar problem a lot. Check the compression too to see what it is. It ideally should be at 150 psi.

Karl

 

[dupes123]

I have put about 6 hours on the machine this season so I believe all of the old fuel should have cycled out? A friend of mine mentioned this stuff called quikleen and he said it would clean everything out, I haven't tried this yet.

The plugs were replace 2 years ago, but may not be a bad idea to replace again.


How do I check the compression?


Thanks for your feedback!

 

[dupes123]

I have put about 6 hours on the machine this season so I believe all of the old fuel should have cycled out? A friend of mine mentioned this stuff called quikleen and he said it would clean everything out, I haven't tried this yet.

The plugs were replace 2 years ago, but may not be a bad idea to replace again.


How do I check the compression?


Thanks for your feedback!

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some info on the compression test;

You'll need a compression tester. Go to a local auto parts store. I think they sell for like $25.00 USD. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.

I believe in repairing a problem rather then adding something and hoping it solves it. If you pull the carbs apart...you know they are clean.If you add something to do the job it will more than likely cause other things to be over cleaned, like the diaphragms and fuel pump rubber items... Spend a few hours and get it done and over with. It will be more reliable in the long run.

Let us know if you need more information/ advise.

Karl

 

[dupes123]

Karl, is there a good alternative oil for Bombardiaer Rotect Injection Oil? I want to also change the oil on my machine as it has never been done since I owned it.

Is there an oil filter on a 97 Sea Doo GSI? I don't see one, do you know where it may be located?