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97 sea doo xp

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jbsnks

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I need some help with my 97 sea doo XP. Last weekend I took it out and noticed it takes about 10 sec every time for it to start. And at times when I would give it full throttle it would bog down and die. And the other thing is the time it takes to start just ended up draining a brand new battery. I have not done anything to it up but am up for suggestions. Thanks Jake.
 
Check compression, then go thru carbs and rebuild. If you have grey fuel lines swap them out. How does it run when it starts?
 
Sounds like a fuel hose system leak to me. If it is sucking air in anywhere in the supply line ahead of the carb(s), you can get this. Check your fuel lines for cracks or loose ends. Also check that the fuel filter cup oring/gasket is sealed properly.

Or carb pump/diaphram leak.? Pulling the carb and going through it is always one of the firsts on the todo list when and engine is not behaving as it should. It is not hard or difficult to do. Just time consuming.

On the battery ..... Always remove the key/plug when not in use. If it is left on, the electrics stay powered up which will drain the battery over park time.
 
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Quick question I have a 1997 seadoo GTX where I rebuilt the carbs changed fuel line with black automotive 1/4" fuel line from my local auto parts store and replaced the fuel selector and it will only rev up to 4000 rpms sounding normal on the trailer and if it goes higher it makes a very strange fast bumping noise and won't rev correctly and in the lake it will not even go above 4000 rpm at all but if I pull the choke when it starts to bog it hits 7000 rpm no problem or if I pull the choke when idling and wait for it to almost die and gun it to wot it will hit 5000 rpm and then be stuck at 4000rpm sorry for saying this on this post but I'm clueless what it could be any suggestions are greatly appreciated
 
Joesh, sounds much like a fuel starvation. I am going to suggest pulling and going through the carb again to ensure all ports and the internal filter are clear. With all the new lines and fuel selector, there can be residual dust or rubber flakes from them that make their way to the carb right after first startup. That is why I am suggesting you do the carb again. Just to be sure it is clean clear and pristine.

From there you may need to look for the additional signs/symptoms of a head cylinder oring leak or inner crank oil seal leak. Does it smoke alot? When run on the trailer is the exhaust water running clear or is it a milky grey/black soup?
 
Both sound like a fuel issue to me as well..

Did you use OEM gaskets or aftermarket? Did you replace the Needle and seats?
 
I rebuilt the carbs with a kit I found on Amazon the brand was jsp and I did not replace the needles and seats but when installing the fuel selector both fittings fell off and the o-ring on the water separator looked worn could that cause these observations cause this problem
 
To test if its fuel issue for the OP try to spray starter fluid and then start the engine, if it starts then you have fuel issue. That's how I quickly rule out fuel problems on cars.
 
Can the fuel selector fitting being loose cause this or the o-ring in the water separator being old and worn because I've taken the carb out and checked and cleaned it a bunch of times and I got the same result
 
Bottom line, you will likely not solve this issue until you use OEM Kits and replace the needle and seats. The aftermarket kits quite simply are not built to the specs needed for a quality carb rebuild..

I personally think you are wasting your time and will chase ghosts until you re-do the carbs.
 
I just did a genuine carb rebuild I got from sbt and I checked my pop off and it was about 25 psi in both carbs and it said in the book it is 23-43 but it still ran exactly the same no difference I have found out some things though if I run it with the seat on it revs normally and loads up at 4000 rpms and dies if anymore throttle is added but if I remove the seat it runs the Same but if I squeeze the throttle about 3-4 times it revs to 7000 rpms but sounds like it's misfiring could it be a exhaust leak or be an issue with raves not opening if you can't find an answer I can post a video of running to see what I mean
 
I didn't think SBT sold OEM Mikuni kits.

Take off your air cleaner you will see 2 tiny nozzles sticking out of the side of carb throats. On the pto carb you will see your ac creator pump. Move that lever by hand and see if fuel squirts out of the nozzles.
 
My carbs do not have accelerator pumps they are off a 1997 seadoo GTX which was not equipped with one but I found a chip in the exhaust pipe I can show you a picture of it there's some black stuff on it that showed me there is carbon which is a sign of a leak
 
290.jpg
 
joesh_gray said:
Can the fuel selector fitting being loose cause this or the o-ring in the water separator being old and worn because I've taken the carb out and checked and cleaned it a bunch of times and I got the same result
Click to expand...

Yes absolutely! Anywhere that air can be sucked in will cause lean run blips. The fuel lines, filter, selecter all need to be "tight" and air proof.

To test this, if you are sure your tank and fuel are clean try running two lines direct from tank to carb. The supply line and the return line. Bypass the fuel filter separator and the selector valve. See what happens ..... If its behaves and runs smoothly, then you know the valve and/or the separator need attention to seal them up from air ingress.
 
Well I changed the filter and the fuel selector but it takes about 3 throttle squeezes to make it run right it basically runs correctly to 4000 rpms and bogs but after 3 squeezes it will run all the way to 7000 rpms I think my carbs need to be adjusted but I'm very unsure how to adjust them properly
 
Ok. You may do a search of my posts to find the one that has links to some great reference pages for carb needle settings. Check those out and adjust as needed. Get back to us. ... Still pullin for ya. [emoji5]
 
After setting my carbs to spec I started it and here's what I got now when I first hit the start button it backfired and it started right up after I tried again and it revved to 4000 and bogged and after letting off the throttle and squeezing it the tachometer showed 7000 rpms but it sounded like it was misfiring a little bit I disconnected the red wire on the rectifier to make sure that wasn't the problem what in your opinion could be something to check or go through because After rebuilding the carbs, the replacing the fuel line, cleaning the rave valves, replacing the fuel selector and water separator and in line fuel filter I'm at a loss what it could be if I need to take a video of it running tomorrow I can do that to show you and I can take a whole bunch of pictures to show you what I've done or if I'm lucky you can see what I did wrong in the process if this cite didn't exist I would be lost and clueless so any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks, Joesh
 
I never see the inline fuel filter completely filled with fuel there is always some air in it but not very much fuel I think I could be an air leak some where because I changed the fuel selector and water separator and I saw the air bubble still in the filter
 
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