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97 gtx getting too much fuel after carb rebuild?

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95neonman

95neonman

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I just rebuilt my carbs on my 97 gtx yesturday and changed all the gray fuel lines out. Got it all back together, it fired right up and idled great for a few minutes. Shut it off and figured i come back today and finish it up. Well i went to start it today and it wouldnt fire. Pulled the plugs and they were saturated in fuel, checked to see if it has spark and it does. Blew all the fuel out of the cylinders and put the plugs back in and tried starting again. Still nothing. Pulled the plugs back out and they were saturated in fuel again. Seems to me like its getting too much fuel. Any ideas? I left all the ajustments on the carbs how they were when i pulled them off. Thing that gets me is it idled and revved fine the first time i started it after the rebuild. Thanks for any input.
 
I'm no expert, and you can tell from my posts, but I would think that a pop off needle and seat is open. Are you sure the spring seated? You are going to have to take them off again. That's where I would look, but keep your eyes open ase you dig into it. Double check the fuel line placements before you start turning wrenches. Especially the fuel return line.
 
PeeDeeSuave said:
I'm no expert, and you can tell from my posts, but I would think that a pop off needle and seat is open. Are you sure the spring seated? You are going to have to take them off again. That's where I would look, but keep your eyes open ase you dig into it. Double check the fuel line placements before you start turning wrenches. Especially the fuel return line.
Click to expand...

The needle valves were fine when i rebuilt the carbs. I did the pop off test and both were almost dead on 30 psi. one thing i wasnt sure about when i was doing the fuel lines were which went where on the fuel selector valve. I tried looking for a diagram on here, but the one i found didnt show which port was which on the valve.
 
I just went out and checked and all the fuel lines are right coming out of the tank sender. Here is how i have the lines going to shut off valve-

176.jpg


I think i have the middle and bottom lines mixed up?
 
Ok i went out and seen that the valve was marked for which line goes where. I did have the lines mixed. I dont think that it had anything to do with the problem I have tho. Both cylinders are getting too much fuel. Anyone else have any input??
 
the fittings off the fuel selector are 2-in, 1-out. the 2 side by side ones, are the res/on lines, from the tank, the bottom fitting from valve, is the one to the filter.

your problem is whats stated b4, the needle is stuck open, allow'n the gas, to keep pour'n in. Unfornutly, need to pull the carbs, and/maybe, replace the needle and seat aasy.
 
timmyboy76 said:
the fittings off the fuel selector are 2-in, 1-out. the 2 side by side ones, are the res/on lines, from the tank, the bottom fitting from valve, is the one to the filter.

your problem is whats stated b4, the needle is stuck open, allow'n the gas, to keep pour'n in. Unfornutly, need to pull the carbs, and/maybe, replace the needle and seat aasy.
Click to expand...

If the needle is stuck open, what are the chances that both are stuck open? Both cylinders are getting too much fuel. The needle and seat were fine when i rebuild the carbs. Operated perfectly smooth. Both carbs pop-off value was right at 30 psi.
 
Valves

There are markings on the valves. At least on mine there are coming out of the tank. They are really hard to see. I would confirm the line routing and then tear the carbs down again if it comes to that. OR (I love afterthoughts), take the return line off and stuck it in a bottle to confirm the flow,and crank it. If you have flow then I would say it is possible that your return line is on a valve that is pressurizing the line that should be suction (fuel in).
Hey, did you put that little one way vent valve under the cowl on backwards?
 
Retrace

It just makes sense to retrace your steps. I agree with you that the odds are against both needles being stuck open. I am not convinced that they both are. It could be only one. Fuel passes through the rotary valve. If you are cranking and it is flooding I think fuel could follow the valve and flood them both. I think its the line routing and if its not then I think you will find that only one needle is stuck open.
 
PeeDeeSuave said:
There are markings on the valves. At least on mine there are coming out of the tank. They are really hard to see. I would confirm the line routing and then tear the carbs down again if it comes to that. OR (I love afterthoughts), take the return line off and stuck it in a bottle to confirm the flow,and crank it. If you have flow then I would say it is possible that your return line is on a valve that is pressurizing the line that should be suction (fuel in).
Hey, did you put that little one way vent valve under the cowl on backwards?
Click to expand...

Which one way vent valve are you refurring to?
 
Vent

Maybe yours doesn't have one. Mine are xp's. You said you replaced the gray lines. There is a little inline valve on a line that runs from the fuel tank (float) up inside the cowl. If you did not take it out then that isnt your problem. I still think if it is not two of the lines being switched then it is in a carb.
Looking at your diagram, did you switch the lines on your selector? I took mine out and it is clearly marked. Mine has the fuel filter in on the middle one. The pop off test makes me think that it is on the selector. If it is right on the selector, you just going to have to turn wrenches. Please post the solution when you find the problem.
 
PeeDeeSuave said:
Maybe yours doesn't have one. Mine are xp's. You said you replaced the gray lines. There is a little inline valve on a line that runs from the fuel tank (float) up inside the cowl. If you did not take it out then that isnt your problem. I still think if it is not two of the lines being switched then it is in a carb.
Looking at your diagram, did you switch the lines on your selector? I took mine out and it is clearly marked. Mine has the fuel filter in on the middle one. The pop off test makes me think that it is on the selector. If it is right on the selector, you just going to have to turn wrenches. Please post the solution when you find the problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah, all the lines are correct i checked them. Just gonna have to play with it another day. I'm starting to lean to something in the carbs.
 
95neonman said:
If the needle is stuck open, what are the chances that both are stuck open? Both cylinders are getting too much fuel. The needle and seat were fine when i rebuild the carbs. Operated perfectly smooth. Both carbs pop-off value was right at 30 psi.
Click to expand...

If you rebuilt them with aftermarket diaphragms… it’s very likely. Seems like the rebuild kits that aren’t OEM have diaphragms that are a little hard, so you can set the pop-off… but as soon as you bolt on the cover… the diaphragm has enough pressure to push the seat open. I verified this by putting air pressure on the carb, and as I tightened the cover… I heard it pop-off. Then, I did it again with the old Mikuni diaphragms, and it didn’t happen.

The solution is to bend down the contact point on the arm (changing your pop-off pressure) or filing down the pin on the diaphragm. (or buy OE Mikuni parts)

Good luck
 
doesnt matter where you buy it at, if it aint oem, ask for it. Sure all dealerships/repair places, sell oem and aftermarket.
 
Well I messed with the ski tonight some and got it running. I had one of the fuel lines mixed up going to the fuel selector and this must have been causeing my problem. I cleaned the plugs off and blew the cylinders out and it fired up. It ran a little rough at first, but cleaned it self up. It idled around 2500rpm so i adjust that back up the 3000. Also reajusted the low speed adjusters and it seems to be running pretty good. It revs real quick and clean. The only real problem it has is, if it sits for about 5min or so it has a little rough start up. But if you shut it off and fire it back up it starts right up. Just have to put it in the water now and see how it runs under load.
 
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