96' XP will not hot start condition

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1983

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Whats up guys?

I'm almost at the point of buying carbs or sinking this thing lol.

Conditons: loading up at idle, will not hot start.

Subject: RV clearance, RV cover avail, carb settings.

Ski: 1996' XP stock 787, stock airbox and flame arrestor.

Settings: 1.5 needles and seats, 35 or 39 psi pop offs, 1 turn out low speed needles, closed high speed needles. 150/155 compression. Carbs hold bleed down test and pass each time, 20 psi held for 1 min. Fuel system is completely fresh, tank was yanked and cleaned last month, new fuel lines of course and all those bases covered.

I am fighting a really bad hot start condition on one of my seadoo 96' XP. Everything is set to spec, tried 2 different sets of carbs, both rebuilt with full OEM mikuni kit with 1.5 new mikuni needles and seats. I've tried pop off at 35 psi in each carb, and raised pop off too right at 39-40 psi. Spec is 23-43 psi. Ive tried adjusting lever arm 1mm below carb body and that didn't help at all. I was thinking the diaphragm red nipple was pushing on lever and keeping needles open and fuel was being pushed into carbs when engine is off. Didn't help. Ive checked multiple times with engine running at idle with a mirror and flashlight and no fuel is dribbling into carb throat. Why does it load up at idle in no wake? I've had low speed needle at 1 turn out, 3/4 turn out, and 1/2 turn out just to see what would happen and none helped. ( I know messing with the low speed needle is a band-aid and isn't proper but I wanted to see what would happen )

Mikuni manual says to raise pop off if you have a condition where ski loads up while idling through no wake zones. Mine does this also, if I idle for more than 6-10 seconds and try and give it gas it bogs falls on its face and dies. Hard to restart. I have to choke it? isn't that odd?

If I hold throttle wide open and crank it it won't start when hot not even hit after cranking for 20-25 seconds, either after sitting at dock for 10 mins, or out of the no wake idle zone as mentioned above when it dies. Now if I choke it and hold throttle open it fires off and tries to clear itself out if I keep throttle nearly WOT. But 80% of time it just won't restart. Even with new set of gapped plugs it wouldn't restart while sitting at dock for 10 mins. Seems overly rich when its hot and been sitting...but then I am thinking everytime I choke it while trying to restart it is producing the overly rich condition....

Brings me to my question could this be rotary valve clearance? I am going to measure clearance tonight. All I can think of is clearance is too great and this is causing hard hot starts. I have gone through fuel system completely of course and all is new and fresh, fuel feed is direct from reserve nipple on fuel tank to an inline filter to MAG carb inlet. No fuel water separator, no fuel on/off selector. Just direct from reserve nipple to carb.

Fuel tank vent system is working correctly with the check valves, and when I take gas cap off on a hot day there is no pressure sounds like tank is under PSI. Ski is premix 40:1 if that matters. It is getting spark when hot also, I think i've covered all my bases haha.

Thanks all,

Rob
 
I have a similar issue with my 95 xp 800. I just replaced the needle and seats and still same issue. I'm going to check the rv next time I take the carbs off. Also going to try another set of freshly rebuilt carbs.
 
Total noob here, I noticed that I had 2.0 needle and seats in my stock carbs, what is the advantage to going with 1.5 ( which is what I got in my rebuild kit ). I kept the 2.0 and just changed the needles and adjusted pop off pressure to be 25 per carb. Starts and runs great, at least off the water. I will be water testing Wednesday.


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How is the compression on the cylinders?
Can you show a picture of the spark plugs. After idling.

Does this machine have a primer?
 
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I am going to check RV clearance tonight. I will post back. When you check yours let us know.

What is your pop off at? Are you using choke or aftermarket primer system?


Rob

I have a similar issue with my 95 xp 800. I just replaced the needle and seats and still same issue. I'm going to check the rv next time I take the carbs off. Also going to try another set of freshly rebuilt carbs.
 
150/155 compression

I can't really even get it running when warm to take a pic of plugs. They are white right now though as I just replaced them. When I pulled ski out of water yesterday to head home I pulled flame arrestor off and smelled fuel.

Not sure if its all the times i'm pulling the choke to try and to get it to fire or something else. I pulled plugs, they were wet.

But two different sets of carbs both rebuilt correctly that pass the bleed down tests and pop offs, leads me to believe it has to be something with gas tank pressurizing or RV clearance.


How is the compression on the cylinders?
Can you show a picture of the spark plugs. After idling.

Does this machine have a primer?
 
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If you are working on a 96' XP that is completely stock then you need 1.5 needles. 2.0 is way too much fuel for a stock setup. Also you said you just changed the needles, you can't mix and match needles and seats. Put the new 1.5 needles with the new 1.5 seats and go back through carbs.

Now if you have aftermarket flame arrestors that allow more air into engine then carb adjustments including pop off, needle/seat size, and jet sizing will be required to balance them out.

I would start your own thread to get your answers best answered.



Rob



Total noob here, I noticed that I had 2.0 needle and seats in my stock carbs, what is the advantage to going with 1.5 ( which is what I got in my rebuild kit ). I kept the 2.0 and just changed the needles and adjusted pop off pressure to be 25 per carb. Starts and runs great, at least off the water. I will be water testing Wednesday.


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Choke, stock airbox it didn't do it last season it started at the beginning of this one. I honestly don't remember the pop off it was in spec. I dropped in new needle and seats and still same issue.
 
Well ours are nearly identical then.

Are you having the hot start condition? or the "tip in" as I call it initial throttle application slight bog then it takes off. Or both lol?


I can deal with the slight tip in bog ( even though I know it shouldn't do it) but the hot start issue is frustrating. I mean dang, it runs soo goood on the high speed fuel circuit :)



Rob




Choke, stock airbox it didn't do it last season it started at the beginning of this one. I honestly don't remember the pop off it was in spec. I dropped in new needle and seats and still same issue.
 
After I get it started in have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling once I get it cleared it runs good on the high speed circuit. It doesn't bog on take off either except for initial startup
 
Sometimes the primer can fail and leak. Giving excess fuel. You could block it off or pinch the hose to test.
 
Yours doesn't sound as bad as mine but I hope in this thread we can get the tip in bog, hot start, and loading up at idle issues handled for 1990s 787 skis.

On mine if its not the RV clearance then I might buy a set of new carbs. I doubt it will fix it but who knows with these headaches. I know im rebuilding them to a T but just can't figure out this ski.



After I get it started in have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling once I get it cleared it runs good on the high speed circuit. It doesn't bog on take off either except for initial startup
 
What primer are you referring to?

We are both running the stock choke and stock airbox flame arrestor setup. Maybe your model skis have primer?


Sometimes the primer can fail and leak. Giving excess fuel. You could block it off or pinch the hose to test.
 
What primer are you referring to?

We are both running the stock choke and stock airbox flame arrestor setup. Maybe your model skis have primer?

I read this above.
"Not sure if its all from me priming it trying to get it to fire quite"
I just misunderstood you. Sorry.
 
It's a fresh rebuild so it has to be something small I just have to make time to figure out what the problem is
 
I will change it to choking like in my original post, I meant choking and inducing too much fuel whoops.

No worries, can't always determine what everyone means through a forum ha.


Rob


I read this above.
"Not sure if its all from me priming it trying to get it to fire quite"
I just misunderstood you. Sorry.
 
I would never interchange a 1.5 needle into a 2.0 seat. It won't operate correctly. If you have new OEM mikuni 1.5 needles and seats then they need to be installed together. Not a new 1.5 needle in a used 2.0 seat. That is asking for trouble on maiden voyage. It isn't gonna run right.

Rob





:coolgleam:
 
Not trying to hijack the thread, I will change this out ASAP....just an FYI I have done this in the past with no ill effects on other machines...Atv's ect and they are still running perfectly to this day. Not knowing this motor like the back of my hand I will do as instructed. I appreciate the words of wisdom and do not want to rub you or the users of this forum the wrong way, I do value your wisdom and all of the help that you have given me.
 
Well got the carbs off and feeler gauges in, what the heck. It is in perfect spec.

.012 feeler fits nice n tight.

I was really hoping this was my culprit.

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I guess I'll yank cover and check for any scoring. Don't recall any there when I put engine in.

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Try a known set of good running carbs

This is the 2nd pair I've had on here. Both sets pass all tests and different lever arm settings have been tried and diff pop off. Back to checking inventory for another set :-/

What else could cause such a rich idle and rich hot start from sitting....?
 
The thing is when you are not the original owner a lot of unknown things can happen to the machines
 
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