Pwnage1337
Active Member
That's what I figured. Just glue some together in a stack and glue them back in place
Little bit of a sad day today.
I got the boat all put together and put it in the water. It started and ran good on the trailer, (bet you guys have heard that before) but as soon as I put it in the water and tried to take off it acted like it dropped a cylinder. I made it about 100 feet out into the lake and turned around and headed back to the boat ramp. Took it back home and decided to check compression. 90 PSI on each cylinder. The MAG plug was wet like it wasn't even firing. I confirmed spark on both leads yesterday when I started it on the trailer .I'm assuming when I checked the compression earlier in this process there was some residual oil in the cylinders that was boosting the pressure up to 120 psi on each cylinder.
Now I need to determine if I can get away with a top end kit, or bite the bullet and get an SBT. As mentioned previously I don't doubt that the crank seals are shot.
I am committed to getting this thing running well as soon as possible. That was the whole reason for me putting it in the water on a 45 degree April day.
Any input is welcome. Is it better to have the crank rebuilt and do the top end kit myself, or just buy an engine from SBT? From a financial aspect. I am mechanically inclined so doing it myself doesn't scare me that much. Seems like I could get a top end and a crank rebuilt for about $600, and an engine from SBT is $900.
Thoughts and input is appreciated.
Jeremy
What size machine screws are you guys using to hold the front bumper on? I've seen people mentioning they are using stainless machine screws with nuts on the back.
I tried getting a hand riveter in there and it didn't work worth a shit. It worked good on the corner pieces on the back of the ski but not for the bumper at all.
Thanks for the follow up......that is the advise I had been given already and you have confirmed it. Thanks.I pulled the airbox back off the Carbs so I could access the low speed screws and the idle adjustment screw.
As I suspected, the Idle screw was not even touching the plate that opens the butterflies on the carbs. I found a thread that advised to turn the screw until it contacts the plate, then turn an additional two turns. This got me really close to the desired idle speed of 3000 RPM on the trailer, per my $12 amazon tach. I made a tiny adjustment of maybe a 16th of a turn and it idles right around 3050 on the trailer now.
I turned the low speed screws all the way in and turned them out 1 turn. I had them set at 1.5 turns out initially, due to conflicting information about whether 1.5 turns out or 1 turn out was stock. Based on my experience with the way it wanted to run I set them at 1 turn.
The next trip out on the water was totally different - thing practically jumps right out of the water when you pin it from idle. I am also confident that I did in fact have a bad Voltage Regulator/Rectifier that is why the ski wouldn't get above 3000 RPM the first trip out on the 10th.
My plugs are a little dark but I suspect that is because I premixed the first tank at 40:1, along with running the oil injection. I didn't want to have any hiccups in the oil system (air, because I had the ski upside down) even though I bled the system, and can deal with fouling out a set of plugs knowing that the motor is getting oil for sure. The next tank will be just straight gas, relying entirely on the oil injection. By the time I burn through 9 gallons I would suspect that any air bubbles that might be in the system have been pushed out.