RESTO 96 XP Resto mod...Super Sleeper. Looking for guidance

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Fattony67 said:
I am also planning to shoot a fresh layer of gel coat to the bottom after I repair the damage, there was quite a bit of rubbing before a hole wore throught. I will most likely remove them. Thanks for the link to the rivets.
Click to expand...

You really should look into that guy that offered you that other hull. I'd rather drive 4 hours each way for a free hull. You're gonna have probably 25 hours into the repair, re-gel, sand and polish. Trust me I have polished enough turds with original gel coat and have seen other guys here re-gel and wet sand and swear to never do it again. Learn from our experiences.
 
A Rossier pipe can be a huge improvement. It's a pipe that offers a good gain without being such a risk of burning up pistons. It will run a 787 at 7200-7400 rpm depending on setup and you'll be pressed to get 7K out of a stock pipe. The welch plugs will never rot out and it's lighter and makes more room to work in the hull. My Rossier Piped X4 will run with (or outrun)any pump gas 787 out there but I do have a lot of other mods as well.

$350 for a used top end? Man I'm glad you are bouncing this stuff off us. I have brand new 1st over OEM pistons in the box I'd sell for $150 a set shipped. I've got a stack of 17 used 787 heads(stock) and almost as many aftermarket ones. Jugs are cheap if they need a bore.

Harry is a good guy but not the industry's answer man when it comes to modifications. His genius was documenting their test results and posting on the web(pretty forward thinking for 96) for others to study. I've read through it a few times over the years and I've learned some things but also found myself rolling my eyes at times. He does great machine work at a reasonable price and can boost performance over stock levels without adding risk. However many of the other tuners were miles ahead when it came to getting gains, they just were in the scene getting tugged at by racers to work for them next.
 
I totally agree Matt. Harry's claim to fame was endurance racing and he will be the first to tell you that. His skis might not be the fastest but they will do just as claimed in that they start,idle and look almost stock but run much better. This is why he sticks with the stock exhaust on his kits.
 
racerxxx said:
You really should look into that guy that offered you that other hull. I'd rather drive 4 hours each way for a free hull. You're gonna have probably 25 hours into the repair, re-gel, sand and polish. Trust me I have polished enough turds with original gel coat and have seen other guys here re-gel and wet sand and swear to never do it again. Learn from our experiences.
Click to expand...

I am, And if we can work something out I'll drive the 5.5 hours (each way:(. ) But in the meantime the show must go on. There is a 72 vette resto in my future and I have no glassing experience. Repairing the hull may not be worth it in itself, but the added experience of a new skill may make it worth doing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
20170615_221442_zpsos7frt9p.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
278.jpg


Spark arrestor came in today

The plan for monday is pull the top end and inspect it, pull rub rails and powerwash.

I'll follow up then.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
I LOVE my Rossier pipe. Does 7300ish for me and hit 61mph and my ski isn't even really set up for top speed. Huge improvement over stock for me and I'm running 91 octane.
 
Gaige23 said:
I LOVE my Rossier pipe. Does 7300ish for me and hit 61mph and my ski isn't even really set up for top speed. Huge improvement over stock for me and I'm running 91 octane.
Click to expand...

Sorry to sidetrack this thread but-
What are you running for mid-pipe & stinger jets, water on-off settings? I'm only hitting 6970 max rpm. Running 44mm Buckshots with Buckshot intake rotary cover and K&N Filters, West Coast head 185 compression. Plugs look perfect. Maybe the K&N's are not breathing enough. Also stock prop and Worx intake grate.
 
125 mid 160 stinger with jetworks control valve. I'm running a 14.5/22.5 swirl with 84/87 solas nozzles. Aftermarket head with 43cc domes and r&d flame arrestor. Took a bit of tweaking but Matt helped me get her there.
 
critracer said:
Sorry to sidetrack this thread but-
What are you running for mid-pipe & stinger jets, water on-off settings? I'm only hitting 6970 max rpm. Running 44mm Buckshots with Buckshot intake rotary cover and K&N Filters, West Coast head 185 compression. Plugs look perfect. Maybe the K&N's are not breathing enough. Also stock prop and Worx intake grate.
Click to expand...

I actually prefer we cover this stuff in this thread. If I install the rossier I can use this info as a reference.
 
Ditch the K&N air filter. They always sucked and if they even get a little wet they flow zero air.
 
a+ on the Prok's, sell off the K&N, there is always a buyer for them.

Proks make carb adjustments SO much easier between those and the Rossier pipe you will feel like you have double the space and it makes a much cleaner look.

I'm also behind the idea of a clean donor hull, cleaning up the turds is bad enough w/o glass work involved.
 
Looks like this turd is going to get a spit shine!

This is the good part. The hull is completely stripped and as clean as its going to get. I am now able to really asses the damage.

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]


342.jpg


Now its time for the big decision. How to move forward from here. The damage is extensive but repairable. There are no hulls listed nearby on craigslist or ebay. The one that was offered to me is not ready for pick-up and we dont have a definite time for it to be ready. The top end is at groupK now and has a 6-8 week completion date. That means I have 6-8 weeks to repair or replace this hull.

I think 2 layers of glass on the inside under the gas tank will give me a good backbone for the repair. Then flip it over and do the best I can to make a stucturally sound repair. Notice I specify structure and not cosmetic. I do not expect to get a factory finish on this repair. I plan to get it close, spray it with a fresh layer of gelcoat and never look at the bottom again.

If you are of the opinion it is not worth fixing please point me in the direction of a replacement hull. Leads are welcome. But I am not parting this ski out.
 
The issue is that this is a two piece hull. The inner hull you are seeing is not the back side of the outer hull with the huge split in it, it is just an inner liner. To do it correctly you are going to have to cut out the inner hull above the big bottom crack then glass the bottom from the inside and outside, then rebuild the inner area.

Don't forget there is also foam between the two for flotation and if it is wet when you get to it from cutting the inner hull you might have to abandon this hull all together. As others have warned if this inner foam is saturated with water it will never dry and the hull will be too heavy to bother with moving forward.

If it were mine I would stat cutting out the inner hull to see the extent of the damage and water issues with the foam then.......
1. Patch the bottom from the inside then the outside laying new layers of woven glass cloth and epoxy resin.
2. Pour in closed cell expanding foam to refill the void between the inner and outer hulls.
3. Reglass the inner hull again using woven glass and epoxy resin.
4. Gelcoat the bottom.

It is a lot of work, time and money but it can be done. But as others have said a good donor hull is so much easier.
 
Here you go, this guy had the right idea. You have more than 11 hours of work to make it solid. Go get that other hull, you can thank me later.





343.jpg
 
345.jpg

346.jpg


What are the odds. Right after posting I checked craigslist again. This former race hull was up for sale only 20 mins from my house. So I went and bought it. Now I have a new set of problems. This is definately not a stock hull. Extra drain plugs and gauge holes. Ill do a more in depth assesment over the weekend. There is some minor spiderwebbing in the gelcoat in places and a few chips but nothing like that old hull. Maybe instead of a sleeper project this leans more towards prostock.

Racerxx
Here you go, this guy had the right idea. You have more than 11 hours of work to make it solid. Go get that other hull, you can thank me later.
Click to expand...

You are a jerk. I like jerks, we are going to get along. I am working that offer, but it didnt seem likely as I did not get a response from my last message a few days ago.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
LOL, we are going to get along! I just want you to make the best decisions. Glass work while not hard is not worth the time on a 96 XP. They're like you know what's, everybody has one.


I see 2 Lathes and a mini mill just screaming for a CNC conversion in the back ground and either a plasma cutter or Miller Tig too. Oh, and you're a car guy. So, you won me over already :D
 
I am a machines guy. If it has moving parts I want to take it apart and hopefully get it back together.

CNC is in the plans. I am actually working on an advanced manufacturing degree now, the conversions will follow. Machining is tough to learn on your own, so at 38 years old I go to class in my spare time to hone my hobby.

I do have a plasma torch. But the combo you see there is a 110v mig under a 220v tig/mig multifunction on a homemade cart. Working a building my first road racing cage in a 97 dodge neon for Chumpcar or Lemons.
 
New Hull?

Drilled for an umi system and extra gauges/switches
418.jpg

gelcoat damage on rails. There are complete chips on the underside of the hull.
419.jpg
420.jpg

tapped exhust
421.jpg

foam removed from sponson mounting area
422.jpg


This hull would make a super cool "race replica" build. Like my 1st motorcyle, cbr "smokin joe's". I changed the gearing and added Ohlins shocks and that little 600 was a blast in the city. Top end speed is super overrated. Ill take low end grunt and midrange any day.

1.jpg


Kind of a detuned racer for "agressive" recreation. Great handler with some added acceleration.
After talking to the wife I think its a good idea to have a good looking boat, but not a pristine resto, I dont want to be mad if she (or anyone else that ends up using it) chips the gelcoat or doesnt put the cover back on it, etc..( god knows shes chipped and scratched every car/truck I have bought).

So the questions are
Should I be concerned with the spiderwebbing? I there an easy patch that would avoid grinding and gelcoating?
What about missing foam around sponson mounting area?
Should I buy a used umi system and embrace the extras holes already drilled? (saw one for about $400 on ebay)

And last but not least. Still planing to head to MI to pick up a factory hull that I pray just needs a good buff job. I really want a factory look. If everything works out I will build on the factory hull for this year, and build a fake "racer" for next year. The only problem with that is I would need a 2 place trailer........
 
Ok, back from the dead.

I ended up taking everyones advice and driving up to Michigan late last summer to pick up a clean donor hull. The top end is back from group K and the engine is disassembled.

2 Questions.

Is it worth spending the money for a quality crank rebuild? any recommendations as to where to send it. Saw some other posts which mentioned Competetive Crankshafts.

How have you cleaned the old paint from the block and bolt heads. I dont have a bead blaster, has anybody used a needle scaler? The block is made out of cast iron, correct?
 
Get an OEM Crank as they are the best especially for the money. Pro Caliber out of Washington has them for $351 shipped.

The cases and everything else is aluminum.

You don't need to get crazy with stripping the engine of paint just clean the rough stuff off unless it is a salt turd.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Bshaw4377
1996 Seadoo Challenger Adventure/Resto
Replies
3
Views
196
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
1
97' XP 800 Stalling when accelerating
Replies
5
Views
105
Grim
Grim
W
Does 99 XP need the recharge jet in the accel pump line?
Replies
5
Views
243
wabbastang
W
Lovehate
96 XP runs bad
Replies
7
Views
615
POPPS
P
R
Full Bore, Shame on you for not being honest and taking money and motor
Replies
17
Views
1,102
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top