turbodriven
Member
I have a 96 XP with a no spark. I've tested just about everything from bow to stern.
A short run up. Everything tests good with all the Seadoo manual tests and a multimeter. Ignition coil, MPEM, Trigger coil, Stator etc etc. All within specs. I'm not getting a pulsing light when I test my white wire at the rear box though. The white wire has good continuity from inside the rear box to inside the front box so the wiring itself is good it seems. The wiring in the whole ski is very clean actually, very little corrosion throughout.
That all being said, the only component that doesn't test to spec was the DC-CDI box. All the tests were way off spec (see attached graph). So I bought tested a different one (which I thought was off a running ski), with almost the same results. So then I tested a third in some guys garage on one I was going to buy (didn't write down those figures) but the were almost exactly the same as I remember.
Did I just get my hands on three bad DC-CDI boxes? Is my luck that bad? Or am I missing something?
It would be SUPER HELPFUL is if someone had a 100% known working DC-CDI box from this year and ran these same quick multimeter tests for me. Just maybe the first three on the chart I've attached (RE/PU, YL/WH, and WH)? Or tell me from personal experience that all three of these boxes I tested ARE just bad. I just hate to spend $200-300 on another used DC-CDI box and it not be the problem.
As a side note, does anyone know WHY these things go bad? Or how they fail rather? Just heat/age?
Thanks
A short run up. Everything tests good with all the Seadoo manual tests and a multimeter. Ignition coil, MPEM, Trigger coil, Stator etc etc. All within specs. I'm not getting a pulsing light when I test my white wire at the rear box though. The white wire has good continuity from inside the rear box to inside the front box so the wiring itself is good it seems. The wiring in the whole ski is very clean actually, very little corrosion throughout.
That all being said, the only component that doesn't test to spec was the DC-CDI box. All the tests were way off spec (see attached graph). So I bought tested a different one (which I thought was off a running ski), with almost the same results. So then I tested a third in some guys garage on one I was going to buy (didn't write down those figures) but the were almost exactly the same as I remember.
Did I just get my hands on three bad DC-CDI boxes? Is my luck that bad? Or am I missing something?
It would be SUPER HELPFUL is if someone had a 100% known working DC-CDI box from this year and ran these same quick multimeter tests for me. Just maybe the first three on the chart I've attached (RE/PU, YL/WH, and WH)? Or tell me from personal experience that all three of these boxes I tested ARE just bad. I just hate to spend $200-300 on another used DC-CDI box and it not be the problem.
As a side note, does anyone know WHY these things go bad? Or how they fail rather? Just heat/age?
Thanks