• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

96 seadoo xp problems

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

Camd14305

New Member
I purchased this ski from a good friend a couple weeks back had a new motor new starter new ignition coil and starter solenoid, he was un able to get it to turn over or start. I got it back to my house and put a brand new battery in the ski and changed the ground to a more accessible place I got it to turn over but not start do to no gas in the ski I added oil to the tank and put gas in it and now it only bumps over a half turn will not bump the full rotation of the motor I took the plugs out and it will turn over all the way I can turn the pto by hand so I know the motor is not locked up and I know the pump is free, I read somewhere that the batter has to be over a certain voltage for the ski to get spark. I want to get this not bumping over all the way problem out the way before I work on the spark problem anyone else had this problem. Thanks
Cameron
 
gaurentee its not the battery when I put on trickle charge and take it off to put in ski it is above 12.5 volts the only issue I want to fix at he moment is the cranking problem a buddy told me to check and make sure it had the right plugs in it I checked and it comes up as the oem plug. im stumped again
 
Sitting voltage is MUCH different than loaded volts.

By hand, can you turn the engine more than a complete revolution?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It is hard to turn the pto shaft by hand but yes, someone said the motor could be siezed but I don't be leave that since I can turn it over with out plugs and a rag over the holes
 
I read the original post and a couple of things came to mind.

First, "new starter", if the new starter is not OEM this could be your problem. Ebay and aftermarket starters are junk, they are made in China and of inferior quality to OEM, if your friend still has the OEM starter I would suggest rebuilding it. It probably just needs a new brush set.

Second, the battery, load test the battery, check the battery voltage under load, it needs to be over 10.5 volts when cranking, you could also have a bad battery cable or connection.

Lou
 
Well I think I have found my problem I know the oil pumps fail a lot but I have never seen this before I think my oil pump is failing and dumping way to much oil so I am gonna go the the pre mix route because I bumped the motor over twice with fuel in the plug holes to see if it will turn over and the motor is hydro locked again so premix is defintly gonna need to be done
 
I'd say that's not the oil pump, it's the inner crank seals that are leaking. That is what allows the engine to fill up with oil. Most people put a ball valve in the oil line going to the RV feed and shut it off when not running the ski. You just have to be very careful to remember to turn it back on. You can tie your key to the valve when it's off so you don't forget.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Just sop it up with a rag. Put the valve in, and charge your battery on a real battery charger. Once it's fully charged, then you can let the trickle charger handle the duties.
 
Unless my old eyes are failing me, that level of oil indicates the crankcase is pretty full. Remembering some past posts from folks having this problem, it is well advised to pile a bunch of rags over the empty spark plug holes and touch the starter to clear things out. No rags means you will have a hell of a geyser of oil messing up the whole area, seems someone said they screwed up the ceiling in the garage.

If the ski sat for a long time the crank seals at the ends of the rotary gear chamber are noted to leak. Above suggestion re valve to shut off oil when not in use is good. Not really anything to flush out the oil, just crank it a number of short times until most of the oil has blown out the spark plug holes then put some premix into it, replace the plugs and try to start it; if it runs you will possibly have neighbors calling fire dept about the smoke but it clears up shortly. Do not run more than 30-60 seconds at a time. It could be that things will then be fine if the ski is run regularly, and do not have a big mess of smoke almost every time you start it.
 
That's what I think are my problems but yes I'm gonna covert it to premix and get that oil as much as I can out the motor and put plugs in and try it thanks for talks help I hope this is it cause if so I'm trading it off
 
Your issue is not the oil injection system so converting to premix will not help. Your issue is bad crank seals and/or a rotary shaft seal. The oil is coming from the rotary valve cavity and even converted to premix you still have to keep a constant supply of oil to this area of the engine.
 
The proper fix is a lower end rebuild, or more likely a total rebuild. A lot of guys temporarily fix the problem by either pinching off the oil feed line to the rotary oil bath or installing a ball valve in the feed line. And either pinching off the line or closing the valve when the engine is not in use. Disabling the oil injector pump and going premix will only increase the problem of more smoke and using more oil.

Lou
 
So pretty much I need to Install this valve I just thought about it and going to premix is not gonna help this. Sad part is when I bout the ski it was a "new" motor but I'm guessing it is not what it cracked out to be so gonna see if I can sell it as is witch I probly won't be able to make a profit bout the ski for a quick flip and turns out more problems than I want
 
That paint makes it kind of hard now I'm just wondering how hard the seal is gonna be to replace I have a really good trade lined up for when I fix it
 
It is typically the inner crank seals and they can't be replaced without taking the crank apart with a huge press and a lot of skill. The only realistic solution is a reman crank. You could get lucky and have it be a rotary valve shaft seal but with the age of the ski and symptoms it is the crank seals.
 
Well, if you want to figure it out before you guess at it, pressure test the rotary cavity. There is a specific procedure on testing the inner crank seals.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Are you sure someone didn't dump a crap ton of oil down the plug holes for storage? If not someone lied about a fresh rebuild



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

DavidB123
Seadoo 1994 GTS No Crank
Replies
2
Views
106
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
B
Not cranking
2
Replies
30
Views
935
Bryson_Waters_07
B
B
93 Seadoo SPX Crank Seal
Replies
2
Views
129
barborshop
B
rkkoeb
Hydro locked motor in 2001 GTX
Replies
1
Views
131
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
KingKoopa562
95 gtx wont start.
Replies
7
Views
343
DaddyLoafin
D
Back
Top