96 Seadoo XP jet ski - carb bolt dropped thru carb into crankcase

[mike from michigan]

Help! I just bought a 96 Seadoo XP jet ski with the 800 engine for my son. I was changing the gas lines like everyone recommends. I was pulling the carb air filter box and accidently dropped one of the alumunum hold down bolts into the carb closest to the front of the ski. The bolt is about 1" long and has an allen head.

I pulled the carb and tried to use an extension claw type of tool to grab the bolt. I had it for a second, but lost it. When I went to look for it again with a mirror and flashlight, the bolt was gone. I didn't see it come out of the carb. Did it drop into the crank? If it did, what do I do next? Think I can vacuum it out with a powerful shop vac? I haven't run the ski or turned over the engine since this happened.

I'd appreciate any advice you can give me. Do you know anyone in metro Detroit that could fix this for me.

Thanks, Mike from Michigan

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Ouch

when working on boats... drop NOTHING... either the bildge gods, who are very unforgiving will take it as a sacrifice... or you will drop it in the engine...

well... unless you know for 110% sure you got it out... it's time to start taking that puppy apart ...

If you crank it over or try to run it w/a bolt in the crank... there are no clearances for it... it will destroy the engine!

 

[djredman99]

Don't want to get your hopes up, as I have found many of the bolts in these machines are not magnetic, but check to see if one of the other bolts you did get out is magnetic. If you are lucky enough that they are, you can try a powerful telescoping magnet to try and pull it out.

EDIT: Ok, just re-read and see you said they were aluminum bolts...so no magnet

 

[mike from michigan]

should I remove carb adapter plate?

Thanks for the advice. My carbs were attached to a metal plate that's bolted to the engine. My bolt dropped thru the hole in this adapter plate. Will I get more clearance to find the bolt if I remove this plate?

If I remove the engine to shake the bolt out of the hole, what gaskets or new parts will I need to put everything back together. I may order them in advance. Thanks, Mike

 

[djredman99]

Yes, if you remove the rotary valve cover, you should get more clearance to get it out if your intent is to extract it. If you just plan to take the motor out and manuever it to drop the bolt out, then it problably won't help you any more by removing it. It is a straight shot in there. Unfortunately for you, it seems your rotary valve was in an opened position and allowed the bolt to drop in.

There is an O-ring that seals the Rotary valve cover to the case. It is pretty cheap (under $10) so there would be no reason to not replace it if you do remove the cover.

 

[djredman99]

Mike,

Here is a good look internally at your engine so you have a better understanding with what you are dealing with. You can see the rotary valve cover #27, the O-ring #26, and the rotary valve #25.

http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=f3e32ff3-c1b7-419c-9cde-5a5bb9632600

Select your year/model seadoo and then view "01- Crankcase and Rotary Valve" (use Zoom at top-left of pic to get a closer look).

The rotary valve spins to open and close the holes leading from the carbs. This times when your fuel mixture goes into the cylinders.

Keep in mind, you want to prevent your crankshaft from turning at all. Your Rotary Valve is timed by gears mated in your bottom end. The damage you do manually turning it would be minimal, but you could possibly pin/wedge the bolt in there.

 

[mike from michigan]

I got the bolt out

Good news! I got the bolt out tonight. I followed your advice and removed the other carb and the rotary valve cover. This gave me better access but I still couldn't see the bolt. I then removed both plugs, and hand turned the crank very easily until I felt any resistance, looking in the hole the whole time with a flash light and mirror. When I felt any resistance, I turned the crank the other way. After a few moves each way, the bolt appeared, and I could reach in and pull it out. No stratches on the bolt, and I never put any stress on the crank when I turned it. So I think I'm okay. What a relief.

Now I have to read my Haynes manual to see how to reinstall my rotary valve cover. I still plan on replacing all of my gas lines, and hope to have my ski back together on Saturday. Thanks for your help. Mike

 

[djredman99]

Glad to hear that!
:cheers: