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'96 seadoo XP 787 locked up??

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cfulgenzi

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So I have been working on this thing and it has been one thing after the next. I am now stuck with this problem: I put the key on and it won't even beep or make a noise. Brand new battery and replaced blown fuses. Also, the prop shaft will not spin freely anymore... Does this mean the engine is locked up? Also, does the ski not even try to start if it is locked up? Why isn't it even beeping and what are my options here? Any help would be much appreciated. Thinking about selling it as is but I wanted to give it one more shot if I can.

Thanks!!
 
The lack of beeping may be a bad beeper. But the blown fuses may be telling you something. What fuses were blown and do you know why? Pull the plugs and try to turn the motor over using the PTO. Does it turn? Could be lots of things. If it turns over by hand, try jumping across the big terminals on the starter solenoid. It should crank. Do that stuff and report back.
 
soccerdad said:
The lack of beeping may be a bad beeper. But the blown fuses may be telling you something. What fuses were blown and do you know why? Pull the plugs and try to turn the motor over using the PTO. Does it turn? Could be lots of things. If it turns over by hand, try jumping across the big terminals on the starter solenoid. It should crank. Do that stuff and report back.
Click to expand...

I think the beeper is a separate problem. Cause it won't even try to turn over or anything. I replaced a 5 fuse in the front box and a 7.5 next to the start solenoid. I can't spin the shaft with the plugs or without the plugs in...
 
So then you have something mechanical locked up. You need to figure that out before you jump to the electrical issue. IF you can't turn it over by hand with the plugs out I would first pull the pump then go from there.
 
mikidymac said:
So then you have something mechanical locked up. You need to figure that out before you jump to the electrical issue. IF you can't turn it over by hand with the plugs out I would first pull the pump then go from there.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks! So if I pull the pump, what am I looking for? Jammed propellor, no pump oil?

Also, when I pull the pump, will the prop shaft be able to turn freely by hand if the problem is the pump? And if it can't turn with the plugs out and the pump out, does that mean the engine is locked?

I also found that the starter motor connection is broken so I will replace this as well.
 
cfulgenzi said:
Ok thanks! So if I pull the pump, what am I looking for? Jammed propellor, no pump oil?

Also, when I pull the pump, will the prop shaft be able to turn freely by hand if the problem is the pump? And if it can't turn with the plugs out and the pump out, does that mean the engine is locked?

I also found that the starter motor connection is broken so I will replace this as well.
Click to expand...

yes by pulling the pump you will free the driveshaft so you will know if the motor is locked up or the pump is locked. if pump is free pull spark plug out and remove starter it may be seized on flywheel. and then reach down on back of motor and try and turn pto hub..if it dosent move freely an any direction your motor is locked.
 
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Progress...

Sloanman7 said:
yes by pulling the pump you will free the driveshaft so you will know if the motor is locked up or the pump is locked. if pump is free pull spark plug out and remove starter it may be seized on flywheel. and then reach down on back of motor and try and turn pto hub..if it dosent move freely an any direction your motor is locked.
Click to expand...

So today I attempted to pull the pump but I only got the cone off. I was not able to remove the pump. However, I then moved to the starter and removed it and the prop shaft is now free to move with hand. Does this mean I just need to replace my starter?

Also, what type of oil do I put back into the pump come thing on the very back and how much?
 
I would bench test the starter. Maybe the Bendix just got stuck. You can rebuild them for not much money. Don't buy an aftermarket starter. The pump uses synthetic gear oil. Fill it all the way to the top. make sure you seal it well. Also make sure you seal the pump back to the ski well or you will get cavitation. Check your wear ring while it is out. Download the manual for your ski. Lots of great information in it for basic maintenance.
 
Thanks "soccer dad".

I have the battery off, the spark plugs out, and a few other things unhooked. Should I plug everything back up? I can turn the prop shaft by hand but when everything is hooked up will the motor actually try to crank even with the starter out after I hook everything back up?
 
With the starter out I would not try to hook the electrical back up. You have the potential to ground out and fry something.
If you can turn it by hand now and the pump spins freely it has to be the starter.
See if the starter turns smoothly and make sure the bendix gear operates smoothly.
 
mikidymac said:
With the starter out I would not try to hook the electrical back up. You have the potential to ground out and fry something.
If you can turn it by hand now and the pump spins freely it has to be the starter.
See if the starter turns smoothly and make sure the bendix gear operates smoothly.
Click to expand...

I have two starters. One seems to have more play up and down than the one that was in the ski. I have tried to test it but I can't find a video on how to test the starter. Do I hook it up to jumper cables or what? I would like to see if one of them is good before I put back in.

Also, this is the third time the battery has died and I unplug it every time I am done working on it. This is also the second time that the 5 fuse in the front and 7.5 fuse in the back next to the solenoid have went bad. Idk what's going on but this might be a separate problem. Any ideas?

Thanks again!
 
Outside ski on a bench hook up jumper cables to your jetski battery and at the starter put negative clamp on the body of starter ear...and with the positive clamp tap the starter posts nut/bolt and report back.
 
cfulgenzi said:
I have two starters. One seems to have more play up and down than the one that was in the ski. I have tried to test it but I can't find a video on how to test the starter. Do I hook it up to jumper cables or what? I would like to see if one of them is good before I put back in.

Also, this is the third time the battery has died and I unplug it every time I am done working on it. This is also the second time that the 5 fuse in the front and 7.5 fuse in the back next to the solenoid have went bad. Idk what's going on but this might be a separate problem. Any ideas?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
One thing at a time. ..lol
 
Sloanman7 said:
One thing at a time. ..lol
Click to expand...

Haha ok sorry it's just frustrating but I'm dedicated so no worries. I did what you guys said above and no response with the starter after connecting battery to starter with cables. Even just got a brand new battery to try with. They both seem to move up and down when I pull and spin but nothing when I connected wires...
 
You have 2 dead starters that do nothing when bench tested with jumper cables?

Take a picture of how you are testing the starter with jumper cables.


Rob
 
1983 said:
You have 2 dead starters that do nothing when bench tested with jumper cables?

Take a picture of how you are testing the starter with jumper cables.


Rob
Click to expand...

I have the black going to the outer metal ear and red going to the positive post. When I touch the red to the post nothing happens and my cables are hooked up to the JetSki battery by itself. I even tried with my car battery. I don't know if that was bad or good but it still didn't work. Does the battery need to be hooked up to the Jetski and starter solenoid?
 
Nothing needs to be hooked up to the ski.
With a known good battery and known good jumper cables....
Black cable goes on the body or ear of the starter on bare metal and- negative post of the battery.
The red cable goes on the + post of the battery.
Then touch the red cable to the stainless stud on the side of the starter that the red cable connected to in the ski.

If it still doesn't turn the starter then the starter is bad. Try turning the starter by hand then try power to it again. There could be a bad spot in the commutator.
 
mikidymac said:
Nothing needs to be hooked up to the ski.
With a known good battery and known good jumper cables....
Black cable goes on the body or ear of the starter on bare metal and- negative post of the battery.
The red cable goes on the + post of the battery.
Then touch the red cable to the stainless stud on the side of the starter that the red cable connected to in the ski.

If it still doesn't turn the starter then the starter is bad. Try turning the starter by hand then try power to it again. There could be a bad spot in the commutator.
Click to expand...

Tried again on both and they are both dead. I just ordered a new starter so I will replace it.

Any ideas on why these fuses keep blowing? And why my batteries keep going dead so quickly?

Also, how can I check to see if the starter solenoid and start button are working? Can I use a multi reader thing to check it or do I need something else?
 
Where did you order a starter from?
99.9% of the aftermarket ones are junk from China.
 
cfulgenzi said:
I have the black going to the outer metal ear and red going to the positive post. When I touch the red to the post nothing happens and my cables are hooked up to the JetSki battery by itself. I even tried with my car battery. I don't know if that was bad or good but it still didn't work. Does the battery need to be hooked up to the Jetski and starter solenoid?
Click to expand...



Thats interesting both are dead, they have to be aftermarket. OEM starters are a requirement. Aftermarket are junk and you will be replacing soon. I just took an aftermarket starter off a new to me ski, locked up and failed bench test with jumper cables.

Cancel your order if it isn't a good OEM starter.

Yes you can test start stop switch with ohm meter. Connect leads of meter to the 2 pin small black connector at bottom of starter solenoid. Connector unplugged, then press the start stop switch, meter should read continuity. This will test the wiring to and from switch and the switch.
 
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