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96 gtx defueling?

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IFD158

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Finally got ski started and on water. It will excellerate hard but then de-fuels and bogs, then kickes in again, then de-fuels and bogs and repeats. Idles fine. No bogging on initial acceleration. Carbs were rebuilt last year by sea doo dealership who did me wrong. Now I'm trying to figure this out. Sounds like a carb adjustment . Any input? Thanks in advance
 
Sounds like it is running out of fuel. I would suspect an air leak at either the fuel strainer or on/off valve.
 
I never chance the selectors or strainers on any of mine as they are the most common issues. I always install new OEM ones and have never had an issue.
 
Good advice. Thanks. I am ordering a new oem fuel shutoff this week. Should I order a new strainer as well or just a new oring for it?
 
I have ordered an oem fuel shutoff and fuel strainer. I bypassed the shutoff and ski runs to about 6200 rpm with some defueling. Much better than with the fuel valve on. Probably still sucking some air from the strainer so I will replace both and hope this solves the issue
 
My issue is still there with new shutoff and strainer. Same exact symptom. Pulls hard, then bogs, and repeats. Suggestions where to look. Carbs rebuilt a year ago but never ran right when I got it back
 
Have you tried running it with the gas cap off (incase of venting problem)?

Or playing with the choke a bit?


Edit:
Isn't this 2 posts for the same problem?
How did a mechanic break a tool? was it plastic? Because I find carb parts will break before any "cheap" tool
 
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Triorieel I did not try running with gas cap off or choking it. I will give that a try next time out. In mean time I see my ski has a check valve and a pressure relief valve . Anyone know the difference in what each does? And as for his mechanic breaking tools? I'm stumped, I had them out the week before without issue. Maybe that's why he is no longer in business.
 
Vent let's air in but not out. Air needs to come in to replace the consumed fuel. Otherwise a vacuum will be created. Pressure relief let's air out but not in. Gasoline expands when temperature increases. Too much pressure and your carbs will pop off and gas will flood your engine.
 
So today I checked my worm clamps on all lines to the tank and all the ones in front compartment to fuel petcock and to check valve and pressure relief valve. Non were loose in my opinion but I was able to snug most of them a little more. While checking the air check valve(the one mounted high) I decided to blow air into valve to pressurize the tank. I immediately noticed the sound of air leaking back out. I'm assuming this should not happen. I sprayed some lubricant in valve to clear it up and now no more air is coming out. But now when I blow into valve, I can hear air hissing somewhere over by the carbs. I'm assuming the pressure is back feeding through tank to the return side of the carbs. Petcock is in the off position. Could this be the air leak I'm looking for? Should I not be hearing air near the carbs when pressuring the tank?. I'm out of time to go further tonight but think I should remove air box to see where noise is coming from. This sound correct? TIA.
 
Two primary places to check for leaks are the fuel selector valve and the factory water separator/filter. You can spray soapy water on joints to check for leaks if you cannot locate by sound.
 
Thanks for your response .selector valve and strainer assembly are new OEM so they should not be the culprit
 
A pop off tester and line clamps can be used to test sections of fuel system. Your vent's need replaced after so many years. When you find the leak you will be like OMG! Even new lines may have a crack or cut in them. Be ham handed taking old lines off the nipples may crack them. Making them positional to when line pulls on them and not.. Make sure they are tied down so they do not whip around. Jumping wakes / waves and just the engine running makes a lot of movements.
 
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Water tested again today after removing carbs to clean/ inspect. All looked clean including internal filters. Diaphragm were swelled and had trouble getting them back in but got them in. When on water will still take off strong and then bog hard and then take off, and repeats. I have replaced the fuel petcock and strainer with new OEM. All fuel lines are new. I have sprayed soapy water on all fittings with negative results after pressuring. New intake gaskets when carbs re installed. I do not have a pop off tester but am ordering one today. I just don't get it. Carbs were rebuilt by sea doo dealership last September and ski hasn't run right since. Cannot/will not go back to that dealer. He ripped me off and I believe he is now out of business. Compression is 165 in mag cylinder and about 155 in pto side with throttle wide open. I removed plugs after water testing and mag plug was dry with a tan center. Rear pto plug was wet and oily. I'm. Considering ordering a new carb rebuilt set and do it myself. Who has the best OEM kits ? And is it true not to use the needle and spring that come with the kit. My ski is a 96 gtx with the mukini BN 401 carbs I believe. If anyone has any further advise please, please state it. I'm all ears and very frustrated. Thanks.
 
Oh and ski only has 40 hours on it. I purchased with 20 from original owner. Ski Sat for about 13 years!
 
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