Hello all, I'm new to PWC (not car or motorcycle mechanics) so bare with me. I just bought a 96 GSX knowing that it had a issue. The previous owner said that the last time he took it out on the water is seemed to loose power intermittently. He previously had it serviced and had all of the receipts. The RAVEs were serviced. Spark plugs were replaced, gas and oil drained/replaced, carbs were rebuilt. I have not had a chance to take it on the water yet, but while revving it seems to "lag" in the lower rpm range. It will hesitate between 2-3k rpm's when giving it gas. After that it revs perfect. Currently I am replacing all the gray fuel lines (they are green inside). I also put new plugs in. The old plugs were maybe a few months old, but they looked carbon fouled. I am also cleaning the fuel valve. Do you think the carbs are clogged up even though they were rebuilt a few months ago? What other things could cause this? Thanks for any help!
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96 GSX acceleration problems
- Thread starter my787
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Grey Fuel Lines ?
When you changed the grey fuel lines did you also clean or change the main fuel filter, the carb. filters, and change the fuel selector valve.
You might also look at the wear ring, check it for missing pieces and clearance between the impeller and ring, no more than .040". Also check the impeller for dings.
Lou
When you changed the grey fuel lines did you also clean or change the main fuel filter, the carb. filters, and change the fuel selector valve.
You might also look at the wear ring, check it for missing pieces and clearance between the impeller and ring, no more than .040". Also check the impeller for dings.
Lou
I am currently changing the gray lines slowly. I have already cleaned the main fuel filter. The fuel selector valve is removed but I'm not sure if I should clean it or just replace it (it has green crap all over). Do I have to remove the carbs in order to get to the carb filters?
JESSECONSOPOLUS
New Member
ya the 2 lil filters by the needle & seat really need to be changed, you may get by with just cleaning the selector valve. some of them come apart, others dont. :cheers:
well I cleaned the carbs, replaced all the grey hoses, and cleaned the fuel selector valve. Now the damn thing won't start! It has spark at the plugs. I charged the battery, but while holding the starter button to start it, it'll blink "12v low". However, it seems to be cranking fine. Do you think the battery is bad? Or maybe it's the rectifier? 
I charged it for about five hours yesterday before trying to start it today. I cranked it about 20 times and still no start. the "low 12v" light was coming on while cranking (not just sitting with the key plug on).
I'm going to charge the battery overnight this time and try to start it tomorrow morning. If it doesn't start I think I will take the battery in and have it tested.
ok battery was tested and it was fine so I checked the main fuel filter and sure enough there was no fuel. I checked all the fuel lines and one of them was somewhat loose so I tightened it up. I filled the main fuel filter up with fuel as well as the fuel line that goes to the bottom of the first carb. It started up but seems to run better on the reserve setting (there is plenty of gas). I already thoroughly cleaned the fuel selector. Is it possible that the reserve setting draws more pressure? Is it normal to have to "prime' the system like I did by filling the lines with fuel?
still not starting .....
well, it ran yesterday after tightening some fuel lines (wasn't filling up the fuel filter), but one line was spewing fuel because the previous owner used a zip tie on it. So I tightened it up with a new clamp. After I installed the clamp, it wouldn't start. Then the battery drained.
I charged the battery overnight (again). With the battery fully charged it will only crank 15-20 times and die, even though it tested fine under a load machine. I bought a new battery for $60 so I will charge it and see if it will start.
When the gauge reads "12v low" while cranking does that mean the battery is bad? Do you guys think the rectifier is bad? I know the engine is getting spark and fuel, so it seems like the ignition system is failing somewhere. Any ideas?:grouphug:
.....well, it ran yesterday after tightening some fuel lines (wasn't filling up the fuel filter), but one line was spewing fuel because the previous owner used a zip tie on it. So I tightened it up with a new clamp. After I installed the clamp, it wouldn't start. Then the battery drained.
I charged the battery overnight (again). With the battery fully charged it will only crank 15-20 times and die, even though it tested fine under a load machine. I bought a new battery for $60 so I will charge it and see if it will start.
When the gauge reads "12v low" while cranking does that mean the battery is bad? Do you guys think the rectifier is bad? I know the engine is getting spark and fuel, so it seems like the ignition system is failing somewhere. Any ideas?:grouphug:
Low 12v does not necessarily mean the batter is bad. Could be corrosion of the battery cables, often they corrode from the inside out, so kinda wiggle them see if they feel "crunchy". You can remove the battery ends and resolder them.
When I did my fuel lines I replaced my fuel selector, when I took it apart to clean it pieces of a O ring or gasket fell out. When I reassembled it the valve leaked, which means it is also sucking air.
Lou
When I did my fuel lines I replaced my fuel selector, when I took it apart to clean it pieces of a O ring or gasket fell out. When I reassembled it the valve leaked, which means it is also sucking air.
Lou
New battery installed, and still won't start. It is still blinking 12v low. Battery cables don't feel crunchy. Should I remove the little rubber piece and inspect the wires? What else could cause the '12v low' to come on?
New update. I pulled the spark plugs to see the condition. They weren't too bad, but had some oil/gas on the electrode. I fired the engine with both plugs out. Then what smelled like gas was poofing out of each cylinder. The liquid forms around the cylinder hole and when I put it on my finger it smelled like gas and looked like a gas/oil mixture.
Does this mean the engine is flooded? Could this have happened what that fuel return line was spewing gas from the carb? Compression test checks out. PLEASE HELP!
Does this mean the engine is flooded? Could this have happened what that fuel return line was spewing gas from the carb? Compression test checks out. PLEASE HELP!
the blinking red light wil go away about 20-30 seconds of riding. The rectifier needs to put charge back to battery. When crank'n, the volts are dropping a tad, to indicate 12v low.....no worries there
With the carbs being "rebuilt", i'm think'n they installed a set of springs from the kit, which now, compromised the pop-off pressure, that the carbs need to work correctly.
With fuel not present in the filter, and runs good on reserve setting, your selector is bad, and possibly the o-ring in the inline filter is bad. Quik way to get it to run, and work on the carbs, is to run the fuel line that goes to carbs, run it to the "res" fitting on the tank, and keep the selector switch to "off".
With the carbs being "rebuilt", i'm think'n they installed a set of springs from the kit, which now, compromised the pop-off pressure, that the carbs need to work correctly.
With fuel not present in the filter, and runs good on reserve setting, your selector is bad, and possibly the o-ring in the inline filter is bad. Quik way to get it to run, and work on the carbs, is to run the fuel line that goes to carbs, run it to the "res" fitting on the tank, and keep the selector switch to "off".
The fuel filter wasn't filling up because I had a loose fuel line and it wasn't pressurizing. That problem was fixed. I got it running but another line was loose and spewing gas from the carb return line. After I tightened that line I couldn't get it to start. Now oil/gas is coming out of the plug holes like its flooded really bad. I'm wondering if it got flooded from the spewing return line???
got it to start for a few minutes by adjusting the low idle needle. one cylinder is still blowing out gas. could a bad adjustment cause no start? I'm almost positive I set them both the 1 1/4 turns counterclockwise after seating. Maybe the needle is bent? could that cause constant fuel flow and rich conditions?
fuel lines are correct ........ fuel filter is filling up so it's pressurizing
finally had time to take it out on the lake today.....but no dice. Fired right up out of the water. Soon as I put it in the water, it barely started after 10-15 cranks, and then died. Pulled the plugs and still seems like too much fuel. Is there any way I can buy refurbished carbs? Or maybe some aftermarket kit? I think at this point the carbs are beyond fixing.
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