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94 xp project
- Thread starter murjiim
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The beeper is the least of your problems, I wouldn't even be concerned until you get this thing started, SDB did you not even read the rest of this thread.
The red positive lead from the starter goes to one side of the solenoid, the other side of the solenoid the red cable goes to the battery. The black cable it the ground and it usually attaches to the starter bracket or directly to the motor.
With a compression of 125 on both cylinders the engine is ready for an overhaul. I hate to see old ski's die but I think the best thing to do considering all the other problems is to part this thing out. Between overhauling the motor and the electrical problems you're going to be in way more than this ski is worth.
Lou
The red positive lead from the starter goes to one side of the solenoid, the other side of the solenoid the red cable goes to the battery. The black cable it the ground and it usually attaches to the starter bracket or directly to the motor.
With a compression of 125 on both cylinders the engine is ready for an overhaul. I hate to see old ski's die but I think the best thing to do considering all the other problems is to part this thing out. Between overhauling the motor and the electrical problems you're going to be in way more than this ski is worth.
Lou
murjiim
New Member
meh...not my ski. its in the basement now until he gets the electrical box. also told him to get a throttle cable as the one that was in there is not good among other things of course.
since i was able to turn the engine over directly off the starter by using my booster cables..can i be sure that its the electrical box thats is done for?
since i was able to turn the engine over directly off the starter by using my booster cables..can i be sure that its the electrical box thats is done for?
RodInEscondido
Well-Known Member
This looks familiar to what I tracked down on my 89 XP recently. Looking at the wiring diagram in the shop manual for the 94 XP on page 07-01-5 this particular circuit looks familiar, maybe I can help regarding the starter problem at least...
As mentioned above, one of the big red cables in the box connects to the battery and the other big red cable connects to the starter. The black encapsulated thingy the big red cables connect to is the starter selenoid. There will be 2 other connections on the selenoid; one goes to the battery thru the 5a fuse (wiring diagram indicates this is YL/RD), you should read 12v on the connector post if this part is connecting ok. Actually you should read 12v on both posts if the 5a fuse is inserted.
The last connection on the selenoid (wiring diagram indicates BK/WH) will connect to ground when the safety lanyard is attached and the start button is pressed. To test, remove the 5a fuse (else you will have 12v thru the primary of the selenoid) and ohm this connection post to ground with both the safety lanyard switch and start switch depressed, you should read close to a dead short. The cheap and dirty test, once you have positively verified you know which connection is which, is to ground the selenoid lead going to the switches ... if you get the wrong one you will blow the 5a fuse.
In my case I found a bad wire-to-terminal lug connection on the ground lead going to the switches.
Let us know if this helps.
As mentioned above, one of the big red cables in the box connects to the battery and the other big red cable connects to the starter. The black encapsulated thingy the big red cables connect to is the starter selenoid. There will be 2 other connections on the selenoid; one goes to the battery thru the 5a fuse (wiring diagram indicates this is YL/RD), you should read 12v on the connector post if this part is connecting ok. Actually you should read 12v on both posts if the 5a fuse is inserted.
The last connection on the selenoid (wiring diagram indicates BK/WH) will connect to ground when the safety lanyard is attached and the start button is pressed. To test, remove the 5a fuse (else you will have 12v thru the primary of the selenoid) and ohm this connection post to ground with both the safety lanyard switch and start switch depressed, you should read close to a dead short. The cheap and dirty test, once you have positively verified you know which connection is which, is to ground the selenoid lead going to the switches ... if you get the wrong one you will blow the 5a fuse.
In my case I found a bad wire-to-terminal lug connection on the ground lead going to the switches.
Let us know if this helps.
murjiim
New Member
murjiim
New Member
ok bringing this thread back up...
i have a good used ebox that my friend got of ebay..
its of the same ski but i can already see trouble with some of the connectors. i havent started to put it in but will do it tonight after work.
will be posting pics and stuff if i run into trouble.
well i still have to put the exh mani and all the stuff back on then hook up the ebox.
by the way...my spx is sold
i have a good used ebox that my friend got of ebay..
its of the same ski but i can already see trouble with some of the connectors. i havent started to put it in but will do it tonight after work.
will be posting pics and stuff if i run into trouble.
well i still have to put the exh mani and all the stuff back on then hook up the ebox.
by the way...my spx is sold
murjiim
New Member
i knew it!
ok so got this wire that don't know where they go.
I can see in the ski that the wires off the gauges are just cut right off!
I put the CDI and had to take the magneto covering off to get to the wires so i hooked them up (4 wires)...and off the CDI there is an extra wire (white) that i left and just taped it up.
no response at all when I press start.
so then i just hook up the batt pos to starter and batt neg to block where the neg post is coming off anyway.
the motor would spin nice without plugs but when the plugs are on, it goes 1/4 turns at a time.
what could this be??
Also tested for spark and no spark..i have a spark tester
ok so got this wire that don't know where they go.
I can see in the ski that the wires off the gauges are just cut right off!
I put the CDI and had to take the magneto covering off to get to the wires so i hooked them up (4 wires)...and off the CDI there is an extra wire (white) that i left and just taped it up.
no response at all when I press start.
so then i just hook up the batt pos to starter and batt neg to block where the neg post is coming off anyway.
the motor would spin nice without plugs but when the plugs are on, it goes 1/4 turns at a time.
what could this be??
Also tested for spark and no spark..i have a spark tester
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murjiim
New Member
actually took that starter off and put the original one back on.
my batt charged overnight.
there is just no response, sounds or anything when i press start! there should be at least something going on
brock1
New Member
you just stated that the starter will turn the engine over with the plugs out??? If it will turn the engine over then its getting some kind of connection........ your posts are not making sense........ when you put the plugs back in and it turns over real slow like you said then thats either a weak starter or a bad battery regardless if it charged last night or not....it may not be good under a load
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