93 Seadoo starting issues, please help?

[soccerdad]

So it sounds like your switch is dead. These old skis just have a switch that is pushed down by a lanyard right? IF so, then maybe that switch is bad. FOR TESTING ONLY you can bypass that lanyard switch. Then push your start button again. If that does not work, you can then hotwire the thing to see if it will crank. To do that you would connect 12VDC to the small terminals on your solenoid. Not sure how yours is wired now. First, use your meter and see if you have 12V between your + or - terminal on you battery and either of the small posts on your solenoid. If you get 12v, then run a wire through a switch from the terminal on the battery you were one when you got your reading to the post on the solenoid that you were not on during your 12v reading. Switch your switch and it should at least click. and Hopefully, start cranking.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Have you put the meter on the new switch? With the meter set to ohms and one lead on each post it should be open, when you press the button it should close and start reading. You have the lanyard key for the DESS post right?

Have the wires disconnected if you do an ohms test.


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[Coastiejoe]

ace422, i did what you said, it reads 5.24 on the ohms regardless if I press the start switch or not.. this ski doesnt actually have dess its the old version and i have the lanyard

If you performed this test with the wire disconnected then the switch is bad.


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[RodInEscondido]

I am a little confused by some of the previous, but will leap into the breach ...

do you have service manual/wiring diagram? The below is based on use of the wiring diagram in the 93 service manual I have.

You should have 12v on both low-current connectors on the solenoid without doing anything: tether off and not touching anything. If not, either the 5a fuse is gone or wiring problem in that route (yl/rd wire from fuse to solenoid).

The solenoid is activated by supplying ground to the opposite side of the low-current connector (bk/wh). This path goes back thru tether/safety switch, start switch, stop switch, to engine ground inside mag housing. If you ground the bk/wh side of the solenoid it should activate. I have had an interesting experience chasing this one down.

Hope this helps rather than throwing sand in the gears as is said in the mechanical world.

Rod

 

[jambo79]

Rod, thank you for the advice. I do have a wiring diagram and will take a look at what you mentioned and let you if it worked

 

[RodInEscondido]

When I tracked this one down on an 89 SP it ended up being a bad terminal lug inside the mag housing; the lug looked perfectly fine with nice crimp and all but there was actually no contact with the wire. Figure that! I still have the lug I cut off just to remind me about simple things. This was probably the reason I got the ski/trailer so cheap.

The switches are a variety of NO and NC and several other wiring/plug connections that can become corroded and loose. FISU (this is a highly technical term that is derived by saying "if I was you" very quickly) I would disconnect the + lead on the battery to be on the safe side from cooking your ohmmeter and ohm from the bk/wh lead on the solenoid to ground while messing with the various switches as per the wiring diagram.