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93 gtx will idle but dies when I crack the throttle

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jekylczar

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I just purchased a 93 gtx, it's competely stock. The guy said it ran fine when he had it out a month ago, but that it was sometimes hard to start. Put in a new set of NGK plugs (yes i did gap them) and a new battery. I took it out yesterday and it was hard to start, but I was able to feather the throttle and get it up to full speed....and I ran it wide open for about 30 minutes. Then last night, it wouldn't start...it would hit occasionally, but wouldn't run. I gave up. This morning, I tried again..would hit but wouldn't run. Then get this, I pulled a spark plug out to see if I had spark (which I did). Took just a tiny bit of mixed oil and dropped it into the cylinder..put the plug back in, whammo started right up and idled perfectly. It will start and idle fine now, but as soon as I touch the throttle it dies....

any ideas at all????? Also, I took the cover off and looked down the carbs and when I press the throttle, I don't see any spray of gas...should I with these carbs? any help on where to get started would be appreciated.
 
also, as I have been reading over other posts on this site looking for answers, I found out that I do have the gray fuel lines...which I am assuming are original....I'm guessing I will need to change those out!
 
thanks dr. honda. I see instructions on rebuilding carbs, but do you think I would be ok just to clean these? Should I see a spray down the car when I work the throttle?
 
Claen the control valve, water/fuel filter, once you open the carbs and see those small filters you will know why it dies out, do it before you have a lean burnout, and mark the oil tank to be sure it is drinking, using some premix gas in the beginning of the season until you see the oil drinking is fine, then gas and go.
 
I just went to register it and found out it's actually a 94!

I suppose the problem is the fuel delivery based on the replies and what I've read. Last night I went out and looked and saw that I have the old gray lines. I pulled the end off of the carb and it was covered in green goop...so....

I am planning on replacing the fuel lines tonight. Can I clean the carb filters without removing the carbs???
 
nope because the MAG (one in front) has one too... you'll want to break down the carb at this point and fully clean them... i had the green goop in the fuel inlet on mine but it was more like molasses, so i had to clean clean them and the filter... the rest of the carb looked relitavely clean with the exception of a lil tiny bit of sand around the diaphram... no biggy, and you want to do this as much as possible because like voodoo says you run the possibility of having a lean out... and that WILL seize a motor in a rush....
 
You should get the lines, valve, filter cleaned out before you do the carbs - yes they should come off or at least twisted on one screw to remove the cover, it is gonna be a real new vocabulary when something falls below the motor plate, best to take them off where you can open carefully in a cookie sheet, you may not replace anything, just clean out the steel gas can trash and put it back.
 
lol.... absolrutely... well worth the extra 10 minutes it takes to get em all the way out.... and if your super carefull you can even save the intake caskets, making this fix very cost effective...
 
Thanks guys. I'll plan on removing the carbs then. I read somewhere that i should take the 4 bolts that hold the rotary valve cover off and remove it before trying to remove the carbs from the intake. I looked it over, but how in the WORLD do you get to the bottom right bolt???? Also, someone said if the rotary valve comes out i'm up a creek...true?
 
??? why take it off... i just rebuilt my carbs, and just took off the carbs...and if the rotary just falls out your probably already up a creek... what is the purpose of removing it? it may just be the diff in the models? i dunno you tell me
 
I think it's because the access to the carb to manifold bolts is so tight...I don't see how in the world I'd ever get a wrench on them
 
Am I removing the allen head screws or the 4 13mm bolts to remove the cover? I thought from what I had read I had to remove the bolts.

In either case I'll pay someone 20 bucks to come take these things off...I can't see how to get a wrench on them!!!!
 
You will remove the 4 Hex Bolts to get the roatary valve cover off, as mentioned be careful that the actual rotary valve (thin piece of sheet metal) doesnt fall out when you remove the cover, use a small screwdriver to make sure it stays on the shaft. Then mark it once its out with a sharpe just in case.

You have to remove the RV cover becuase you cant get access to the carb nuts to remove them, not enough clearance to wrench.

To get the bottom right, get on the left side of ski, and use your left hand. The best way I could get to it, now putting it back in, thats a whole nother story, be prepared to drop that bolt severeal times and spend many minutes cussing trying to locate it from under the engine. I felt like tieing some thread to it for just that reason
 
Thanks Chris. I actually finished changing out all the fuel lines last night and had just started on the carb removal. I swear I was looking at that lower right bolt thinking "there is no way!". I am hoping to try to get it removed tonight.

I can't wait to get this job finished. The lines were really gooey...and when I was changing the fuel lines out I noticed that the gas seems really old...I'm hoping that with the new fuel lines, new gas and a clean carb that this thing runs really nice.


Thanks so much for the info...and wish me luck!
 
While your in there be sure to check out the 1/8" oil lines that feed the nozzles in the base plate, make sure they are not cracked or anything. My 94 had a cracked line. Yea I had to snake my left arm in through the oil lines and under the carbs. My right arm went around the from the right side. Once you feel where it is it is not bad to remove. But putting it back in get your cuss words ready. You will drop that bolt be ready to figure out how to get it from under engine. I dropped it and had to pull the carbs back out to get to it. Yea that was fun
 
ahhh.... see i didn't have to remove me rotary cover to get my carbs off... got the 787's, good set up... and about the arm snaking...yes, get used to it like i said it took me a full weekend to do everything on both of my doos... along with fiberglass remnants in both arms from hugging the motor all weekend (get ready to laugh) i also had a huge bruise on my forehead from huggin the motor and leaning my head on the hull opening and using my forehead for support, it was bruised for about 4-5 days...lol
 
Ok, I was able to finally get the rv cover off and the carbs out. The carb filters were bad...really bad. The carbs themselves were clean, but had stained areas inside, like where dirty gas had been sitting. I cleaned them out really good with carb cleaner, and I was able to clean out the little filters. Put it all back together and got it all back on the engine. Took me about 4 hours. Lots of straining and bending...not a fun job at all.

Now, before I try this thing out, I want to drain all the gas out and start with fresh gas. My question is, after I fill it up with new gas, do I need to prime the new fuel lines or anything? Seems like I would, however I have no idea how to go about it....
 
teaspoon of premix down the carbs. and a lil dribble in the head (spark plug hole)...that will do it...if you replaced oil lines you gotta bleed them???? did you?
 
Did you leak-down test the carbs after re-assembly? is the pop-off within 1psi of
each other? did you sync the carb butterflys? HSA & LSA to spec? I advise a new
plastic selector valve as well. Bill
 
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