92 sea doo gtx bombardier dying

[dmykins]

I just bought the used ski. I took it out on the water a week ago for the first time and everything was great. A week later it just randomly dies, it will start right back up and run for a random amount of time and die. It always will start back up and run. The last time it died and I started it we drove it to shore with no issues...to add also, when we got home I pulled like 3 pounds of seaweed out of the intake so maybe that makes it turn itself off? anyone with any help on the cause would be appreciated...

 

[dmykins]

Also when I got home and removed the seat, the wire boot that is between the 2 spark plugs must have come disconnected...so I am not sure if that will cause it to start and shut off???..there should also be a photo attached...I appreciate all the help

 

[dmykins]

Anyone out there?

 

[RodInEscondido]

Yes, we are out here. Probably, like me, trying to figure out where to start.

Photo did not get to the posting, this will be helpful.

Crud in intake is definitely a problem.

Older ski, but that is all I have so maybe can help if given a little history like in if it was out of operation for a period of time (how long and under what conditions like inside/outside).

Give what information and pictures you have and you will get the help you need here.

Rod

 

[dmykins]

It has been out of the water since october until we put it in the water on sunday the 15th. I live in NY so basically for the winter. It was stored outside covered at the persons house I bought it from and it was winterized. When we looked at it to purchase it in May he started it for about 5 seconds and it started right up. Again i took it in the water on the 15th and had no issues at all. This past sunday I had the issues described above. I will try to upload the picture, the progress bar goes to 100 but thats it, it will just sit there with no options...I am told it is the temperature sensor, I am not sure how it became un plugged but since I got the ski home I have plugged it back in...maybe that is the issue that will let it start but not run???

 

[RodInEscondido]

File size of photo will affect if it uploads.

Doubtful it is the temp sensor because an overtemp means a short to ground thru the thermister. That connection goes directly to the alarm/buzzer thus the test for an operational buzzer is to ground the lead going to it.

Old/cruddy gas maybe? Check/clean/replace fuel filter(s). I have used a brake bleeder connected to the fuel line going into the carb to insure you have clear lines; check both with fuel selector in normal and reserve. Use a short piece of clear fuel, or even vinyl, fuel line so you can check for bubbles in the fuel which means leaks.

Numerous posts here suggest cutting back about 1/4 inch of spark plug wire at the plug end and reinsert in the connector.

Hopefully something here helps, if not, more will follow.

Rod

 

[dmykins]

Sounds good...Where exactly are the filters located? Also if I connect the ski to a hose in my back yard can I run it that way to test things out instead of having to keep launching it in the water?

 

[RodInEscondido]

There are instructions in the shop manual and several threads here regarding running on hose or as the term goes "reverse flushing".

Two very important parts:

1. START ENGINE THEN TURN ON HOSE, TURN OFF HOSE BEFORE STOPPING ENGINE

2. ONLY RUN THIS WAY FOR A MINUTE WITHOUT COOLING/LUBRICATING THRU-HULL SEALS

I believe on your model the stock fuel filter/water separator is under the front hatch, easily seen by standing on your head in the hatch. It is highly recommended on this site by the pros to install a secondary fuel filter just before the carb; available at any auto parts store cheap (I mentioned multiple filters just in case someone had already installed the secondary).

Rod

 

[Coastiejoe]

Stuff in the impeller can get further into the engine. This is why the back-flush adapter is on the ski. It flushes the engine as it routes the water in reverse.

It almost sounds like you have a poor connection. I would check every wire you can get to. Look in the E-boxes for water or corrosion.

 

[dmykins]

I took out the front compartment and took a picture, another note, the person I bought it from disconnected the oil injector and told me to mix the oil and gas 40:1...is the fuel filter the plastic piece that looks like a cup? also where are the e boxes? do I just follow the spark plug wires? Again I appreciate everyones help on here. The first time I took it out it was awesome and this is such a buzz kill.

 

[RodInEscondido]

I took out the front compartment and took a picture, another note, the person I bought it from disconnected the oil injector and told me to mix the oil and gas 40:1...is the fuel filter the plastic piece that looks like a cup? also where are the e boxes? do I just follow the spark plug wires? Again I appreciate everyones help on here. The first time I took it out it was awesome and this is such a buzz kill. View attachment 25987

Yes, that cup is the fuel filter/water separator. Unscrew it and check for gunk, clean it out. Insure o-ring is good.

Yes, follow the plug wires; box is on the left side forward of engine. May need to move battery to get it out for inspection. Some use vaseline on the rubber seal, I use a silicon pump lubricant found in pool supply stores.

Did this problem occur when selecting normal or reserve on fuel selector or both? There are separate feeds going down into the fuel tank for each selection, reserve goes deeper into the tank. According to the service manual you have screens at the ends of the pick-ups; these have check balls in them, I have found these both frozen open and frozen shut as well as the pick-up lines in the tank rotted off.

If you find crud in the fuel or fuel filter, you may be faced with cleaning the carb(s). Hopefully not, but it is not a terribly difficult task and much help on this site.

Regarding blocking off oil system and running pre-mix. A lot of folks have done this; look for threads on this site for more detail. The big, important thing is that lubrication is supplied to the rotary valve gears; the best way to do this is leave the oil tank installed and connected with some oil in the tank. One connector to the bottom of the oil tank connects to the connector beneath the rotary valve cover (where the carb(s) are connected), the connector at the top of the oil tank connects to a similar connector over the top of the rv cover.

good luck

Rod

 

[dmykins]

I will check the filter tonight as well as the lines. I'm assuming the tank above the gas tank is the oil correct? And the selector was on normal gas not reserve. And from what I remember if I follow the spark plug wires out of the engine, they go to the front left of the jet ski and it looks like there are only 3 wires going in there. Does that seem correct? I appreciate everyone's

 

[RodInEscondido]

Correct on the oil tank.

when you move the box you will see more wires on the other side/end. You should be able to wiggle the box out and pop off the lid for inspection without disconnecting anything.

Not to challenge your intelligence or claim nobody else out here has done something like this, but .... if only running on normal fuel selector, could it be possible that you are a little low on fuel? Or, as I mentioned above, the fuel pickup in the tank for normal has rotted off making it so the pickup will only pick up fuel from some higher level in the tank? This is relatively easy to check (if you got 3 hands); one hose clamp and wiggle the unit off the top of the tank. There will be (should be) 2 pickups with screen strainers on the ends, one is for normal fuel pickup (shorter one) and the longer one for reserve. As long as you are in there you might as well change out the pick up lines.

Would be great if it were just a broken off pick-up line, but look at all the neat stuff you are learning.

Keep in the back of your mind "fuel selector"; these tend to gunk up and go bad and are not really expensive.

Rod

 

[dmykins]

I wish it was as simple as me being out of fuel, unfortunately I filled it up right before I left. I took out the fuel filter and it looks surprising clean, although I did not see an o-ring, it was just the filter floating in a cup fill of gas...i haven't had a chance to do anything else with my luck it started to rain, so I will be checking the electrical and the fuel pickups as soon as I possibly can. I am attaching 2 pictures, I found a purple wire with a connector on the end not connected to anything and the same with a black wire. In the area I found them, there was no other wires I saw disconnected. They are both coming of a large wire grommet I believe that is connected to the ignition button. I am attaching a picture of the wires along with the grommet...I appreciate all of your help Rod!!! once i get this fixed im going to come to CA and I owe you a few beers lol

 

[RodInEscondido]

I think you missed my point: you may have a full/almost-full fuel tank, but if the fuel pickup in the tank is broken off short you will not be getting to it.

picture shows black oil ring, may have stuck to the upper part on your filter.



Do you have service manual yet? Wiring diagram indicates purple wire goes to alarm/buzzer.

Always up for a couple cold ones.

 

[dmykins]

I will check into the gas lines tonight, it started to pour over here on the east coast yesterday. And I will look for that ring. I got like a 500 page manual that I downloaded yesterday.

 

[dmykins]

As I look into the front there are two separate things going into the gas tank, the one closes to the front of the ski I took off first and it has a float in there that I am assuming is what correlates with the gas gauge...the one deeper and closer to the oil tank has the gas lines into the tank, they shortest one is about 7 inches long and has a screen, the longer one is about 8 inches long and doesn't have a screen...i attached pictures of what I am talking about. I checked and felt the gas lines in the tank and they don't feel cracked or worn...so I am assuming this is a good sign, minus the missing screen....

 

[RodInEscondido]

You say above "started to pour", I guess that means rain! Do not see much of that in my neighborhood and really miss it.

You are correct above relating to connections into top of fuel tank.

The reason I suggested replacing the pickup fuel lines in the tank is that I have found on acquiring my older skis with this type of pickup is that the connection inside the cap (barb) is loose and there has been nothing like a hose clamp thing holding the fuel line on; just replacing the pickup line with new stuff makes for a tighter connection. I have measured to the bottom of the tank and cut the new feed lines appropriately; yours look to not have been replaced so length is probably ok. I am just the type to get a little pissed if I were foolish enough to run fuel down to where I actually needed reserve and really pissed if the reserve pickup was short enough to allow me to stop getting fuel when there was still fuel in the tank.

You can wiggle around the screen at the end of the pickup and should be able to hear the little check ball rattling around. I made an inquiry a while back about the reasoning for the check valve and personally feel, at least for test purposes, that It can be left off the reserve pickup. I am not sure if there is enough iron in the screen to allow for a magnet to pick it up out of the fuel tank but will check the next time I pass by one of these and a magnet in my garage.

You have not found a definite problem yet, but still under suspicion is the fuel selector itself or an air leak somewhere in the fuel delivery system. This of course based on my personal thought that the problem is in the fuel system, which could be wrong. Someone will jump in here and set me straight if I get too off course in my analysis.

 

[dmykins]

Update. I replaced the gas lines and decided to take it out. It died once so we restarted it and it seem to run fine. We started going at a constant 5000rpms and it died. When I tried to restart it the engine would turn over but it would just beep at me. I tried to start it a few times and then just got towed back. I hope I didn't blow anything up. Any help would be appreciated...You guys are life savers.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Same when selecting normal and reserve fuel?

 

[dmykins]

I honestly didn't try to select something else. I was worried the beeping meant I damaged the engine. Is the beeping bad? I can try to start it both regular and on reserve tank in my yard if I won't damage the engine.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Ya need to hold off on your "life savers" comment for a little while, we ain't there yet.

You can start and run the engine for a short time without cooling; most say about a minute, my small experience indicates the thru-hull seal for the drive shaft gets very warm after about 30 seconds. However, if you managed to run for a while before having the problem on the water, you will probably not have enough time in the back yard. Would not hurt, just for the exercise of exercising the fuel selector, to give it a quick test on reserve or leave it on reserve for next water test.

I have gone through the electronic schematic and do not see any feedback into the electronics from the overtemp sensor. If you were a techno-geek like me you would hook an ohmmeter across the temperature sensor and put it in one of your favorite lady's small pots with a thermometer and water; resistance should drop to about 0 at about 200 degrees f. If this proves true it would sound like an actual overtemp problem and the necessity of going thru all the cooling lines; quick test would be in the water where you should get some flow out of the "pee holes" on the back of the seat pedistal at about the level of the deck. I cannot figure how this would shut down the engine except for the bad situation of seizing up.

Almost to the point where one of the experts may need to bail me out here.

But we are having fun, correct?

 

[dmykins]

If it seized up that would be awful. I mean when it died it just lost power it didn't sound funny it sound like it blew up. It just sounded like it would if I pressed the stop button...

 

[dmykins]

Well for a quick update, I went out in the backyard and had it on normal gas selector and it started right up, no priming it or anything. Let it run for about 5 seconds. I turned it off and switched to the reserve tank and it started right up again , no priming or anything, and i let it run for about 5 seconds...so i guess that is a good thing that the engine isn't seized....

 

[RodInEscondido]

You said you had the same problem both with the alarm/beeper connected and disconnected, correct? Just with it connected you actually get an alarm?

Maybe coastiejoe had the better thought, but fuel delivery is always a good place to start.

How are you with reading schematic/wiring diagrams? Hopefully ok, else this will drive you a little crazy.

When you hit the kill switch or yank off the tether you are removing the ground from that circuit (look in the upper right of the wiring diagram). This same path supplies ground to the low current side of the starter solenoid thru the kill switch (normally closed) and the safety/tether switch (closed when tether is connected). What I found when chasing down a no-start problem was that the genuine source ground to the kill switch was actually inside the mag side cover and the terminal lug (even tho looking very good) was not making connection to the wire. These can be a real PITA to track down; the only way I have found to do it is connecting an ohmmeter to ground at one end (battery -) and check continuity at various points along the circuit. Bottom line is if you lose this ground path it will act like either the kill switch is pressed or the tether is yanked off.

Of course, before going to the detailed continuity tests above, insure your battery cables are good and have solid connections; wiggle the large cables around (works for smaller wires too) and if you feel kinda a crunching anywhere in the cable or connection, replace it.

Hope I did not confuse you here.

Rod