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4tec timing help please...

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Andrew_lbreman

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I am rebuilding my 4tec motor and have set everything to exact spec so far. I have the block complete, the valves all installed. I am ready to set the cam shaft, rockers, and timing. The problem is I seem to need a locking tool for both the cam and the crank. Is there another way to do this? Can I used a screw driver or something? I will buy these tools if I HAVE to but I would like to use what I have, and I do have ALOT of tools. Also can someone on here list out how to properly and best set the timing so I dont smash a valve on first crank. I appreciate the help in advance. Also this build seems to be going well. I bought a sonic parts cleaner from harbor freight and as long as you stick closer to the min water level it works great. I was able to save my fuel injectors. It was definitely worth the 60$.
 
What you can do is get cylinder 3 at TDC and use a screwdriver in the locking hole. To be honest its recommended but not entirely necessary to have the crank locked. The reason I say this is that the crankshaft doesn't rotate very easily. So again get piston 3 so that it is flush with top of the cylinder case then lock it with a screw driver or just leave it, just note that if you move the crankshaft you will be out of time so pay attention. Next the cylinder head, this you definately need to lock this. Again you can use a screwdriver as seen in this thread.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?45881

Get your assembly lube and get all the journals on the cam slide it in and spin it until you can get your locking pin to drop. Once you get your pin in, the cam will be locked at TDC. Now get your NEW rocker stretch bolts out and you can install the rocker assembly ( you do have the manual right?) when that's all torqued down, get your new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder case slowly lay the cylinder head in. Then use a tiewrap or some method to hold the timing chain up to keep it from falling down, its best to keep the flywheel/magneto cup etc uninstalled in case you do drop the chain. Now get your NEW cylinder head bolts all torqued down to spec ... manual blah blah blah.

Now leave the chain tension off, and drop the timing gear down below the cam and get the chain around it. You need to horse around until you get the 1503 lines dead nuts, I mean dead nuts flush with the cylinder case this takes patience but its not very difficult. Once you have that dialed in, get some threadlocker red on the three 5mm allen fastners that hold the timing gear onto the camshaft. Now you can install the chain tensioner and the timing chain guide (it just slides in), now after all this again confirm those 2 lines on timing gear are flush.

Thats about it in a nutshell.
 
also I do have the manual and have done everything so far to spec including new rod bolts but I havent bought the other bolts yet. they are just alot of money for bolts that I already have.
 
Yes you need new bolts. Seriously bro let me tell you what i've been up to for the past week as a result of re-using torque to yield (aka stretch bolts). I had a connecting rod bolt snap (reused with only 12 hrs on motor) ... took out the crank journal, bottom case, piston, connecting rod and both oil pumps. Trust me man, learn from my mistakes. Order up the new bolts.
 
Yes you need new bolts. The bolts are stretch bolts and are for one time use only.
 
While I'm not sure about the BRP head bolts, I can tell you from my automotive experience reusing head bolts will end up costing you a motor in the near future. You NEVER re use head bolts. Ever.
 
The head bolts are stretch bolts and should not be reused, imo. However, the manual states the bolt length dimensions that it can not be exceeded to where they can be reused. I have measured a factory set that has been removed once and the dimensions were still within spec. So, technically, according to SeaDoo, they could have still been used but I wouldn't do it.

You don't really need either of the locking tools as long as the crankshaft and camshaft are in the correct position. You can look through the crankshaft locking hole to center up divot in the crank lobe, it's very easy to see with a flashlight. For the camshaft, I wouldn't use a screwdriver unless it was the exact diameter of the locking hole. There will be too much slop and a little slop means a few degrees off which is not good. You can use the end of a drill bit that is the proper size. When setting the timing gear, make sure all slop is out of the chain using the tensioner and by having the crank drive the chain in the direction of it's running rotation. After you set it, turn the crankshaft by hand a few turns the correct running direction and then very position.
 
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