2017 GTR 230 Engine Rebuild

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated

mkov608

Active Member
My 2017 GTR 230 melted the piston crown (#1 cylinder). This happened at the 56 hour mark.

Fuel injectors have all been tested and no defects were found on spray pattern or fuel quantity. Injectors were tested a 800, 2500, 6000, and 8000 RPM. Discharge quantity matched the injector from cylinder 2. The damage perforated the liner and melted portion of the block. Tom from SES engines says this is not repairable.

Looking to my forum brothers for there recommended parts suppliers and tips on the rebuild. I have the OEM manual and have already read the entire engine block section. I've also made a spec sheet to check all the tolerances as I disassemble the block. My parts cart at Partzilla is at $2800.00 and that includes a new block, and I need to order some specialty tools from McMaster Carr.

The cylinder head will go to my local machine shop for inspection and testing since the bottom of the head looks like somebody sprayed it with a texture gun ... only the texture was melted aluminum.

Cyl 1 piston, liner, and block damage.jpg
 
I’m concerned about finding root cause before investing in the rebuild. Hate to see the same thing happen again.

Did you check fuel pressure or fuel delivery (kinked fuel line or something that would restrict fuel flow to this cylinder causing it run lean)?

Can the long term fuel trim values be retrieved?

Any chance low octane fuel was used?.. Or any other detonation related causes.

While this cylinder has clearly failed, I’d look at the other cylinders very closely for aluminum specs.

That’s a painful failure to experience in under 100 hours of use.
 
Last edited:
Was this a rebuilt engine? Have not seen a red head gasket before.

A warning if you deide to do yourself- I made the mistake of buying CP brand Piston rings when I did mine. Found out after I bought them they did not fit a stock 2005 Piston (thickness of compression rings was to narrow and oil control was to fat). The rings were probably for aftermarket pistons. I learned the hard way to stick with OEM.

If the engine was rebuilt, maybe a defective aftermarket piston or an aftermarket liner. Manufactures name should be inside the piston.

If you end up replacing one piston only, suggest you weigh each one to make sure the rotating assembly will be balanced.
 
Last edited:
I’m concerned about finding root cause before investing in the rebuild. Hate to see the same thing happen again.

Did you check fuel pressure or fuel delivery (kinked fuel line or something that would restrict fuel flow to this cylinder causing it run lean)?

Can the long term fuel trim values be retrieved?

Any chance low octane fuel was used?.. Or any other detonation related causes.

While this cylinder has clearly failed, I’d look at the other cylinders very closely for aluminum specs.

That’s a painful failure to experience in under 100 hours of use.
Yea ... me too. The fuel system check out. The owner' manual calls for 87 octane. You would think there would be problems in all cylinders if this was related to the fuel. Cylinders 2 & 3 look like new. I still need to disassemble the block and check the piston oil nozzle for cylinder 1.
 
Was this a rebuilt engine? Have not seen a red head gasket before.

A warning if you deide to do yourself- I made the mistake of buying CP brand Piston rings when I did mine. Found out after I bought them they did not fit a stock 2005 Piston (thickness of compression rings was to narrow and oil control was to fat). The rings were probably for aftermarket pistons. I learned the hard way to stick with OEM.

If the engine was rebuilt, maybe a defective aftermarket piston or an aftermarket liner. Manufactures name should be inside the piston.

If you end up replacing one piston only, suggest you weigh each one to make sure the rotating assembly will be balanced.
I do not believe this was a rebuilt engine. I bought it used in 2021 with 52 hours on it. Right now, all the parts in my cart are BRP parts.

I have created a checklist for all the measurements I need to take as the block is disassembled; any parts that are not within spec will be replaced.
 
Back
Top