2010 Seadoo GTX 155 driveshaft removal / replace
- Thread starter dogfish
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ski-d00
Well-Known Member
All band clamps basically produce uniform circumferential or radial pressure so it's not a matter of constant pressure. Oetiker clamps can produce higher radial forces at a lower cost per clamp and install than screw clamps which is why they are predominantly used in fuel systems that are higher pressures. There are titanium screw clamps that have extremely high radial forces but they are not cost effective. Oetiker clamps are not necessarily more reliable during use. They are more reliable to visually see if they are tight which is helpful on the production line and they are simpler to get installed properly where a torque wrench is required for screw clamps. This equates to lower overall cost.
Don't confuse cheap hardware store screw clamps with good quality clamps. Good quality screw clamps will have required torque force ranges and will last forever when properly installed as well as have maximum radial pressures. The problem is that people will use a poor quality or not the proper clamp for the proper application.
BRP uses some screw clamps and some Oetiker clamps on the low pressure coolant system we are talking about here. They could have used all of one or all of the other but the reason they didn't is because of cost. Not just clamp cost but final cost including labor cost to install properly and reliably.
I really like Oetiker clamps and they work great but the bottom line is that they are being used because of cost which is true with almost everything in manufacturing.
It is OK to diagree but a screw clamp does not provide an uniform clamping pressure. The Oetiker clamp does this as it is working as a spring. Especially with varying temperatures of the fluids or gases the Oetiker clamp compensate for this. The screw clamp pulls towards the screw and does not compensate at all.
The problem with screw clamps is that people over tighten them and due to vibrations, corrosion they snap after time or they work themselves in the hose material and create leaks. The Oetiker clamp is monkey proof as you can not over tighten.
The problem with screw clamps is that people over tighten them and due to vibrations, corrosion they snap after time or they work themselves in the hose material and create leaks. The Oetiker clamp is monkey proof as you can not over tighten.
A thank you to everyone who has contributed advice and knowledge for me here. The ski is back together and working really well. To the possible disbelief of some, most of the parts installed have been non-genuine. Time will tell if my folly.
Some interesting observations from me: I had a world of hurt getting the alignment correct. I actually have no shims installed and this seemed to give the best alignment. I performed without the ball bearing seal installed, as I found it more to more difficult to conduct the alignment. Hence I had a relatively clear line of sight to the PTO. In the end, it was a firm aligned fit.
Installing the 'c' clip was done using a home made 'c' clip removal tool as described on another website and made from a flat piece of wood with a cut-out for the flange ring to lever it back. I completed the fore aft alignment according to the workshop manual, but was surprised at how far the drive shaft slid back in the next phase of trying to insert the 'c' clip. With the jet pump attached to the ride plate, there is no shaft retaining tool to hold the shaft in place, so the jet pump needs to be temporarily installed to hold the shaft in place. In the end I removed the jet pump and placed some plastic inside the spline area of the impeller to take up some of the free play and then re-installed onto the driveshaft. This worked for me. I then removed and thread locked all the bolts etc.
Everything else went well. So the two things which took the most time for me was the alignment and 'c' clip installation. Engine removal was worth the effort to be able to remove most of the corrosion, patch up the engine paint and cover in corrosion inhibitor. Hope my experience can help others. The advice and help of Ricky001 and ski-d00 and mkov608 much appreciated.
Some interesting observations from me: I had a world of hurt getting the alignment correct. I actually have no shims installed and this seemed to give the best alignment. I performed without the ball bearing seal installed, as I found it more to more difficult to conduct the alignment. Hence I had a relatively clear line of sight to the PTO. In the end, it was a firm aligned fit.
Installing the 'c' clip was done using a home made 'c' clip removal tool as described on another website and made from a flat piece of wood with a cut-out for the flange ring to lever it back. I completed the fore aft alignment according to the workshop manual, but was surprised at how far the drive shaft slid back in the next phase of trying to insert the 'c' clip. With the jet pump attached to the ride plate, there is no shaft retaining tool to hold the shaft in place, so the jet pump needs to be temporarily installed to hold the shaft in place. In the end I removed the jet pump and placed some plastic inside the spline area of the impeller to take up some of the free play and then re-installed onto the driveshaft. This worked for me. I then removed and thread locked all the bolts etc.
Everything else went well. So the two things which took the most time for me was the alignment and 'c' clip installation. Engine removal was worth the effort to be able to remove most of the corrosion, patch up the engine paint and cover in corrosion inhibitor. Hope my experience can help others. The advice and help of Ricky001 and ski-d00 and mkov608 much appreciated.
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