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2009 Wakpro oil leak :(

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Amoun

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Hey everyone,
Hope you guys are having a great new year.


I am having an issue with my '09 wakepro. There appears to be an oil leak, when the jetski is running and it looks to be towards the rear of the craft. I did quiet a bit of reading and research and the consensus points toward a bad seal on the oil tank but I do not think that is it because at the front of the engine it is 100% clean.

I cleaned the craft and laid the towels under it, ran for a bit, gave it some RPM and oil collects almost under the oil-filter area. I cleaned it some more and going to let it dry now and see if I can point out the problem. Also, I think I saw some oil on top of the block, away from oil filter towards the front of the craft and around oil-pressure switch. I also looked at repair manuals and saw a radiator on the same side where there appears to be an oil leak.

As I said, I am planning to let it dry of water, shove as many towels as I can in cavities and try to point out the problem but I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction of what I should look at first or what might be more likely...

I can not say exactly how fast the oil depletes but it is not a tiny leak, that is for sure. After maybe.....1 minute of running, approximately 1/3 of a paper towel was in oil.


Thanks a lot in advance and happy new year :)


p.s. the craft has been sitting for about 6 months in pretty hot weather, under cover, but was washed down before storage (if this at all helps)
 
On the 2-stroke models the oil seal (grommet) goes bad often and does leak.

On the 4-tech engines there is not a separate oil tank, just the crank case.

If you have a 4-tech, which you should, you will need to clean the engine down well and look for some sort of an oil leak. Use a degreaser and clean everything, it will help you find your issue.
 
Thanks for the quick reply Joe :)

Yup, a 4-tech. Thank you for pointing the oil-tank misunderstanding. Was under the impression there is a separate one from what I have read in the forums.

And that is exactly what I am doing. I am going as far as using a little camera with a flashlight to see if I find anything, was just wondering if there is anything specific I should concentrate on first. But I will and plan to do exactly what you said.
 
the most common oil leak is from the rear driveshaft seal and is easy to determine, just clean well and then run a couple minutes and see if oil collects just under the rubber boot where the driveshaft goes into the motor.
 
Thanks again for all the replies :)

I have a bit of an update:
I did a test and located where the leak is coming from. Apparently the plug screw on the block, which is located on top and just 1 inch approx north (towards the front) of the craft has a broken seal with oil gushing out of it as soon as the craft starts running. I am really glad it is not something crazy or complicated (knocks on wood....)

I am going to take it out and replace the seal of course.
What kind of a seal (or sealing ring) would you recommend? The jetski spends a lot of time in salt water. I wanted to make sure I get a good quality seal that can withstand high temps.

Also, I am thinking about replacing other seals as well, if I can get to them all that is....I figured if this one went, I would rather get the other ones fixed up too....wouldn't want to re-do the same thing over and over again.



Again, thanks for all your help :)
 
Another update:

I removed the plug and there is definite corrosion. I will be ordering a new gasket ring but it will take a while for it to get here. I plan on using the old ring and seal it with a high quality and high-temp liquid gasket. This will of course is just temporary while I wait for the proper part to arrive.

Wanted to get an opinion on whether this is a futile attempt or just may end up being a temporary fix?

p.s. part number is 420430623
 
That's your timing chain tensioner bolt washer and am surprised that it is leaking. The seal is a softer metal washer similar to many cars oil plugs. Did it come loose? Is it really corroded so that it is pitted? Post some pics, I haven't seen that one but I'm pretty far from saltwater. You could use a little high temp gasket sealer, it wouldn't hurt as a temporary fix, but make sure to torque properly.
 
IMG_3005.JPG
IMG_3003.JPG

Here are the pics (hopefully they went through, had some difficulty).

And yes, indeed.

The plug it self was sitting very nicely there. Took a bit of strength to get it loose and the plug it self is in perfect condition.
I am not sure if, what is happening to washer, is corrosion but that is what it looked like to me.

I highlighted the trouble maker in the pics.

A for the torque, how many pounds should it be? I might have a tool but I think it might be too strong. If I were to do it by hand, would getting it snug and tight be enough or should I push it some more after I feel resistance?

Again...thank you
 
Wow, that's really corroded alright. Not sure if gasket sealer will plug that, you should probably fill it with soldier first then sand smooth.

12 ft lbs which is snug and tight, similar to the drain plug in your car.
 
Huh......that's actually quiet ingenious Sportster. I will definitely try that (HOPEFULLY I will not or ever have to...*knock on wood* lol ) to test it.

ski-d00 - Crap.....to be honest I got a little impatient and sealed it with the gasket. I will let it dry over night and test it under high pressure (high RPM) and if it fails, and I really hope it wont, at least temporary, I will solder it. There is sufficient gasket there, probably more than required. I will definitely update you guys either way. This is a temp fix and I am replacing the ring regardless and for sure.
 
Dye kit from your local parts house is awesome also. It told me I had to pull my motor to fix the oil leak on my RXT right after I got it. Somebody left the o-ring off of the crank position sensor. :facepalm: I poured the dye in and ran the ski for about 15 mins. Took the ski back to the garage and looked around with the light. I saw no green film on the motor, but I had bright green oil in the bilge. We yanked the motor and you could tell instantly where the oil was coming from. 25 cent o-ring with some RTV for good measure and it was fixed.
 
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