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2009 GTX155 carbon seal change
- Thread starter Vince1966
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Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Wow! Those are awefully new machines to already need their carbon rings replaced.... how many hours are on them?
You'll have to pull the pump, and then pull the driveshaft out. There's a C-clip hidden under the lip of the stainless steel disk on the driveshaft that locks the disk in place against the carbon seal... you have to pull the stainless steel disk back towards the stern (it's NOT easy!) to expose the clip, then use a large pair of needle-nose pliers to push it off the shaft. Expect this to be HARD to do. Once you get that clip off, take the clamps loose where the shaft goes into the PTO and then the shaft should slide out the back of the hull. Now you can undo the clamp at the front of the bellows and pull the carbon ring out.
SeaDoo has a tool that makes it easier to remove the C-clip from the shaft, but I do not know how much it costs nor where you can buy it from. This tool is like a lever, makes it easier to pull the stainless steel disk backwards to expose that clip so you can remove it. That clip is the hardest part of getting the shaft outta there!
- Michael
You'll have to pull the pump, and then pull the driveshaft out. There's a C-clip hidden under the lip of the stainless steel disk on the driveshaft that locks the disk in place against the carbon seal... you have to pull the stainless steel disk back towards the stern (it's NOT easy!) to expose the clip, then use a large pair of needle-nose pliers to push it off the shaft. Expect this to be HARD to do. Once you get that clip off, take the clamps loose where the shaft goes into the PTO and then the shaft should slide out the back of the hull. Now you can undo the clamp at the front of the bellows and pull the carbon ring out.
SeaDoo has a tool that makes it easier to remove the C-clip from the shaft, but I do not know how much it costs nor where you can buy it from. This tool is like a lever, makes it easier to pull the stainless steel disk backwards to expose that clip so you can remove it. That clip is the hardest part of getting the shaft outta there!
- Michael
Thanks Michael,
One has 18 hrs and the other has 36 hrs, the carbon seal is where they are leaking from, They would have sank if they were in the water a little longer, I have them at the shop but it will be 2 weeks before they get to them and see if warrantee will cover them, I am quite disgusted in the whole situation. So i figure I will replace the seals myself and install some Bilge pumps while I am at it.
One has 18 hrs and the other has 36 hrs, the carbon seal is where they are leaking from, They would have sank if they were in the water a little longer, I have them at the shop but it will be 2 weeks before they get to them and see if warrantee will cover them, I am quite disgusted in the whole situation. So i figure I will replace the seals myself and install some Bilge pumps while I am at it.
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Automatic electric bilge pumps.... Good Idea! :thumbsup:
Wire the automatic wire directly to the battery so it's on in automatic mode all the time (use an inline fuse of course, 20 amps). Put a manual 2 position rocker switch in your glove box so you can test pump operation periodically... I put an automotive lighted rocker switch in my glove box. Academy stores have a SeaSense 600 gph auto bilge pump with integrated float switch for like $29, it has a very small footprint and very good water flow. I highly recommend it!
Have you run them on the trailer alot? Run time out of water, even if hooked to a waterhose, should not exceed 5 minutes or so... the carbon ring get's hot running dry, it's normally cooled by the waterflow going thru the pump but the water hose does not cool the seal at all. They should have lasted ALOT longer than this, my '06 RXT with 73 hrs now is still running the original carbon ring with no problems whatsoever.
- Michael
Wire the automatic wire directly to the battery so it's on in automatic mode all the time (use an inline fuse of course, 20 amps). Put a manual 2 position rocker switch in your glove box so you can test pump operation periodically... I put an automotive lighted rocker switch in my glove box. Academy stores have a SeaSense 600 gph auto bilge pump with integrated float switch for like $29, it has a very small footprint and very good water flow. I highly recommend it!
Have you run them on the trailer alot? Run time out of water, even if hooked to a waterhose, should not exceed 5 minutes or so... the carbon ring get's hot running dry, it's normally cooled by the waterflow going thru the pump but the water hose does not cool the seal at all. They should have lasted ALOT longer than this, my '06 RXT with 73 hrs now is still running the original carbon ring with no problems whatsoever.
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Vince I was just thinking, you could relieve all that pressure on the stainless steel ring on the driveshaft by loosening the aft clamp on the bellows. This will let the bellows slide backwards, so it'll be much easier to expose the clip that holds that SS disk on the driveshaft! Mark with a carpenter's pencil or felt-tipped marker where the end of the bellows is BEFORE you loosen that aft clamp... you'll want to pull it forward to your mark when you have the carbon-ring changed out and the driveshaft back in! It's critical that the bellows hold the carbon-ring tightly against the SS disk to keep water out of the hull and prevent it sucking air into the pump during hard accelleration!
Doing it this way should eliminate the need for that lever tool SeaDoo uses to pull the SS disk back to expose the C-ring in there. I think you can do this carbon-ring changeout in like 2.5 hrs per machine, either 2 afternoons or 1 day. The 1st will be harder as you won't be sure what you're doing, but the 2nd should be a piece of cake in comparison!
Regards and good luck!
ps. When you put the SS disk back onto the driveshaft, note that there are some o-rings inside of the disk and they can pinch easily... lubricate them with some dishwashing soap before you try sliding it back onto the driveshaft.
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
The entire pump... no need to seperate the nozzle from the pump, it'll all come out as a single unit which you can then set aside. Then to get the driveshaft out, you have to get that C clip off the shaft so the shaft can be slid out the back thru that SS disk (the disk stays in the hull, it cannot go out the back with the shaft). Once you get the shaft out, you can unscrew the forward clamp from the bellows and pull the carbon ring out of the bellows. Carefully reverse the process putting it all back in in the order you got it out! Lube the o-rings you'll find inside the SS disk (and another bearing you'll find at the front of the driveshaft) so that they won't get pinched as you put the shaft back in.
Feel free to ask questions as needed, don't rush and make sure everything goes back in the order it came out!
- Michael
Feel free to ask questions as needed, don't rush and make sure everything goes back in the order it came out!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Here's where I mounted the thru-hull on my RXT. Yours should have a similar spot by the grab handle in the back.
There should be a smooth circular spot right between the waterbox and the jetpump housing, that's where I epoxied my pump to the bottom of the hull (use 2 part, 10 minute epoxy).
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
No, I did not remove the grab rail I was able to drill right thru it without touching it. Does your GTX have the rear storage tray underneith the seat? It conflicts with a straight thru-hull, you have to get a 90 degree thru-hull fitting if you want to retain a rear storage tray.
What 800 GPH pump did you buy and where? I tested my 600 gph pump by pouring water into the hull with a waterhose till it kicked on, and it was like a small fire hydrant! The flow was MUCH faster than the water hose running wide open could keep up with. I felt satisfied that 600 gph would handle most any leak there could possibly be. Of course, bigger is better so there's sure nothing wrong with 800 gph IMO! LOL!
- Michael
What 800 GPH pump did you buy and where? I tested my 600 gph pump by pouring water into the hull with a waterhose till it kicked on, and it was like a small fire hydrant! The flow was MUCH faster than the water hose running wide open could keep up with. I felt satisfied that 600 gph would handle most any leak there could possibly be. Of course, bigger is better so there's sure nothing wrong with 800 gph IMO! LOL!
- Michael
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