The water box, thats the part that is metal in cased in like a fire retardant foam & plastic right? Also what is the best bilge pump? Do I put it on a switch, where do I place the lines, switch, etc. /QUOTE]
The stainless steel J-pipe goes from the exhaust manifold to the waterbox, and yes it's the big round thingy that's strapped down with rubbery cords behind the exhaust side of the engine and it's encased in a black rubbery material (for more sound supression, I think).
I got my SeaSense automatic electric bilge pump from Academy Sports and Outdoors. It was like $29, has a very small footprint and a built-in mechanical float. Find a spot on the bottom of your hull back near the jet pump, rough the spot up with sandpaper then epoxy the plastic bilge pump base to the bottom of your hull (use 2 part liquid epoxy, 15 or 20 minute setup). Allow to dry well! Snap the bilge pump onto it and route the wires (there should be 3, 2 hot lines and a ground line) around the engine up to the battery. Using an inline fuse with a 20-25 amp fuse, connect the automatic hot line to the battery so it's in auto mode full time. Run the other manual hot line up to your glovebox and put a switch in the front of the glovebox (I used a small lighted rocker switch) and hook it up to the same inline fuse you ran the auto hot line to. The glove box come out of the hull btw it's just clipped in there. Get a 90 degree thru-hull fitting same size as the bilge pump discharge hose, mark and drill hole for it in the hull (mine is under the grab handle at the back of the seating area). Measure 3 times, drill just once make sure you'll be satisfied where you drill this hole and there is nothing behind it inside the hull that will conflict cause you don't get any do-overs here!!! Hook up the discharge hose to the thru-hull fitting. Test by using a waterhose to fill the hull with water and verify the automatice bilge pump kicks on and discharges water over the side! Should take about 3 hours start to finish.
- Michael
