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2006 rxt issues

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seadoorxt2006

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Hi All,

My 06 rxt is having issues. Knocking noise at low rpms, top speed only gets up to 40-45, throttle very hesitant, feels like it wants to go fast but just can't. Just hit 50 hours and have never serviced my supercharger or replaced the washers. I did have some old untreated gas lying around in it all winter...I am hoping someone will tell me what cleaner/dry gas to put in and clear up this mess cheap. Any thoughts?
 
When a SC fail the ski tops out around 45 mph MAX. Remove the intake hose and see if you can spin the SC with your finger. I am afraid your SC may have failed and the ceramic washers are in the engine. Which could have been the cause of the knock you are hearing...
 
This site does a rebuild service. I think it is right around $450 but i need to find and confirm the link. Are you familiar with the ceramic washer issue?
 
It is not uncommon to loose your engine. Engine don't do well with ceramic bouncing around in it.

Here is what I would do. No matter what the SC needs rebuilt. So pull it and ship it via the link. Pull your plugs and get a scope so you can look into the top of the cylinders. If the ceramic is sitting in too of the pistons you may be able to get it out through the plug holes. Look at the pistons and see if they are beat up. I would also do a compression test.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
 
I just removed the intake hose and good news, I can't turn the sc!!! Can all of this just be bad gas? Do you recommend a particular cleaner?
 
seadoorxt2006 said:
I just removed the intake hose and good news, I can't turn the sc!!! Can all of this just be bad gas? Do you recommend a particular cleaner?
Click to expand...

That is not good news, that is GREAT news.. However, it NEEDS rebuilt anyways. In 09 (late 08 actually) Seadoo got rid of the ceramic washers for the reasons I've explained earlier. They also have an update shaft available again in 09 and newer. You need to rebuild yours to get rid of the washers as they WILL destroy your engine. The knock can be fuel. Are you able to tell if it is on the top end or lower end? I would drain all fluids and replace them if they are old. Being a 4-stroke engine you could use some Sea Foam to clean out the lines and all fuel related items. Rather large controversy to use Sea Foam on 2-strokes, not getting into the details here as they are not important relative your engine. If you can't tell where the knock is, use a wooden broom stick handle and put it against the block and then put your ear on the handle. Move the stick around t see where the noise is coming from.
 
Knock is during idle and take-off. I did drain fluids, filled tank with 93 but I know there was some old gas at the bottom. I have never used sea foam...how much for a 15.9 gallon tank and do I just pour it in the tank?
 
seadoorxt2006 said:
Knock is during idle and take-off. I did drain fluids, filled tank with 93 but I know there was some old gas at the bottom. I have never used sea foam...how much for a 15.9 gallon tank and do I just pour it in the tank?
Click to expand...

There is a formula listed on the container. Don't recall what it is. Many people swear by it and others say it is dangerous. Biggest concern is in the 2-stroke applications. Legit reasons for not using it. Not the same concern for 4-tech engines.
 
seadoorxt2006 said:
Knock is during idle and take-off. I did drain fluids, filled tank with 93 but I know there was some old gas at the bottom. I have never used sea foam...how much for a 15.9 gallon tank and do I just pour it in the tank?
Click to expand...

I use a whole can per tank of fresh fuel. Doesn't take long to get through the system.

A tip....put the Seafoam in first...let the fuel entering the tank do the mixing.

You change out the plugs yet?
 
eh...I use Seafoam. I usually put in the tank before I put her up for the winter. The ski will get started every few weeks or so...come spring with new oil/filter and plugs...fresh grease in the cone...that same old gas...my ski runs like a raped ape.

Never used STP in a ski...only used it in old fords and Chevy's...back in the day...and never noticed any improvement in them...figured I was throwning good money after bad.

NGK DCPR8E's....make sure you take the ends off...if they're on when you get them. Our coil packs like just the threads...heh.
 
If this works, how long can I ride before replacing the ceramic washers or should I do it asap and before I put her back in the water?
 
Personally...I wouldn't fire it up again before I rebuilt that wheel. It's not just the washers...although they were the biggest reason initially....the bearings. The cages that hold them in place around the shaft get brittle with time.

The general concensus...every 100hr or every two years whichever comes first. I've seen lil ol' lady's go for 3-4 years....but they certainly don't ride very hard..ie don't work the sc/clutches..innerds very hard.
 
I have 50 hours but had the ski new since 07...and never touched the sc at all. Do you recommend an upgrade or just rebuilt from original specs? Also, how much of a pain will it be to actually take it out...and what type of tool do I need to get at that last hex?
 
Get the upgraded rebuild kit.

The last being the one on top? I use a 1/4" 12pt box end wrench. Then when I get that bolt out I replaced it with a stainless hex head. Over all it ain't that difficult a job...just be patient...don't lose any tools under the motor...heh.
 
I have around $800 to work with...what gives me the most bang for my buck while also taking care of the sc issues. Not sure if I do a rebuild or just buy new kit and install that one???
 
Purchase the upgraded rebuild kit from a reputable dealer...here or elsewhere and let them rebuild it. With shipping you'll be around $450. with the remainder......I'd replace your air intake with a 4" front...either Fizzle's while still available...or make your own for less. Then...all depends how fast you wanna go. You could then tweek your oem prop to keep yours r's in the sweet spot while at the same time taking advantage of the easier breathing power. Maybe a wedge...around a $100...skegs about the same. All the freebies...relatively inexpensive.

If you didn't wanna go that route...I'd just buy fuel and have a good time.
 
So take mine out and send for a rebuild is the way to go...use same impeller???

Will the air intake make that big of a difference?

What about new grate...worth the money?
 
Two trains of thought re the prop....

Keep the oem prop and tweek it yourself...will only cost you a lil time...and you'll learn something or...

Get yourself a 14/17 (for now) and then tweek it to suit needs.

You're gonna need a prop removal tool...(everyone w/ a ski should have one on hand anyway...get the long one)

You want to keep you ski turnin 8100 or as close as the summer heat will allow. The '06 I thought had a slightly higher rev limiter than the '05.

Yes...a 4" front air intake will net you a 100rpms easy. Others like a rear air will net even greater results...but with needed additional cautions for safe use.

A grate....is a drag...literally...w/o extra ponies it'll slow you a bit top end...however...it will give you better hook-up in the chop. Some even tout tracking/turning/handling...(eh...I haven't found my Riva to do all that for me)
 
OK...
I'll forget the grate and prop for now, and go for an intake system. Aside from money, is there an advantage to putting in a new, sc?
 
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