2006 GTX SC Cutting Out

[Dad Rad]

Picked up a pair of 2006 GTX SC for the kids to bum around on during the summer. One started having issues. Out of the blue it will shut off then back on. More often than not I get the two chirps like the key had been disconnected. Happens mid-speed, full throttle, low speed, and at idle. Sometimes, it does it after 5 minutes of riding. Sometimes after half an hour of riding. Sometimes only twice during the entire ride, sometimes it is incessant. Last ride, it was fine for about an hour then cut off. Would not re-start until DESS key was removed and replaced. Battery is brand new and connections are secure. I have new plugs to put in (haven't pulled the plugs yet to check) but it doesn't seem like any spark issue I've ever known, off then immediately back on.

I've searched the Forum for issues related to cutting out, but they all seem to have different symptoms, and I see everything from DESS post to voltage regulator to MPEM to fuel filter and don't begin to know where to start for diagnosis. Any recommendations for self-help before I fork out the $$ for a Candoo and try to dig deep?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations,

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I would say that having the Candoo here for things like this are worth it.

If you get the chirps, the key has been disconnected from the machine perspective.

I would check all the grounds, the battery terminals, then move to the DESS post. Pull it out and check the condition of the connectors. Also, do you have another key? Again, with the Candoo you can just program the key from your other one for that machine.

 

[Dad Rad]

Thank you. I've been through the grounds and terminals, first thing I ruled out. Then I cleaned and burnished DESS post and key. I'll move to verifying good connections on the DESS post. I have the one key plus the training key for that machine.

With a Seadoo Sportster (no electrical problems ever, never needed to diagnose) and now two GTXs, I can see it is time for the Candoo. Thanks for pushing me over the edge.

 

[Digdog]

Look at the 30 amp relay , or a wiring issue somewhere.

 

[ski-d00]

Seen DESS posts fail that exact same way. It will get worse and more frequent until it won't even recognize the key at all eventually. Just plug in a new post under the hood and test.

Candoo won't help with this issue. The ski thinks you are pulling the key and putting it back on so everything is going to look normal.

 

[Dad Rad]

Look at the 30 amp relay , or a wiring issue somewhere.

Will do, Thanks!

Seen DESS posts fail that exact same way. It will get worse and more frequent until it won't even recognize the key at all eventually. Just plug in a new post under the hood and test.

Candoo won't help with this issue. The ski thinks you are pulling the key and putting it back on so everything is going to look normal.

thank you. Makes perfect sense. I wanted to cover all bases before switching out parts, but this would be an easy troubleshoot.

 

[DualSportDad]

See my thread below, I'm having the exact same issue. I replaced my post but haven't had the time to ride it long enough to know if it's fixed or not.

 

[Dad Rad]

See my thread below, I'm having the exact same issue. I replaced my post but haven't had the time to ride it long enough to know if it's fixed or not.

thx. I may shoot you a PM with my successes and failures. Will be the weekend before I can dive in

 

[DualSportDad]

Cool, I'll do the same. One thing I can suggest if your ski doesn't have it is do the MOSFET rectifier upgrade. I fear whatever I have going on is a byproduct of the ski over charging.

 

[DualSportDad]

So I've come to the conclusion that move is a crank sensor issue. The bonnet for my crankshaft position sensor was so rusted I had to grind it off. It's Ina very hard to see spot so whole grinding I went too far and grounds the bolt down to the point there's nothing left to grab to get the rest out. I ended up using shoe goo to adhere the sensor back in and so far it looks like it is sealed very well. Time will tell how long this will hold up, but at this point I didn't have much to lose as the ski was pretty much un-rideable for anything more than 30 minutes at a time. At least if I can get one time or I can ride the ski for a full day without it shutting off. I will know it's worth investing the time into pulling the PTO cover off and fixing it properly, but in the past I have had extremely good results with shoe goo holding things in.

 

[DualSportDad]

Crank sensor did not fix mine.

 

[Dad Rad]

Grrrr. My Candoo arrived today. I will get on it this week and let you know if anything triggers

 

[DualSportDad]

Have no codes? It's your battery in there front of the ski? If so it's the battery.