2006 engine rebuild thread. Looking for some clarification

[68ragtop]

Next up project is a 2006 215 4tec rebuild & I am looking for some confirmation on internals as I am aware this is the year things started to change.

this engine does not have the tops valve setup like the early years. its has just the oil separator/pump with the square oil screen & the plastic fill tube. Does this make it the late 2006 style? I think it might, but I am not sure.

Also, as far as crankshafts go I know there are several numbers from 2002-2006 & most will interchange from a fitment perspective, but I think there is something different with the alignment for pin bore for setting #3 at TDC? & possibly materials used I noticed some cranks looked to have heat treated rod journals & some of the early ones do not. Is this a strength difference & can a std 155 crank withstand the extra 60Hp? Or are these cranks just two different animals?

68RT

 

[68ragtop]

i figured something out on the crankshafts. in addition to physical appearance it would seem the 2006+ style like I have has the trigger wheel re-indexed for the CPS on the side of the case rather than on the top internally. I also thought I read somewhere that SBT sold oversized rod/main bearings, but I called them today & they said they only had oem sizes.

 

[Sea Dood]

I wrote an extensive comparison over on the other forum. All the crankshafts are identical throughout the years as far as the basic forging and grinding, but the 2005 and earlier have a different trigger wheel and bolt/dowel pattern than the 2006 and newer cranks. A lot of guys get by with indexing the trigger wheel two bolt holes when mixing years, but this isn't optimal as it causes a 9 degree offset as the difference isn't exactly two bolt holes. I would never do this.

It is also never recommended to use the 2002 cranks, they had forging issues and a lot of these cranks break in two.

 

[68ragtop]

There's another forum?

So, I was looking at the SBT main bearing kits, anybody know what the "various" sizes actually are? Kind of surprised they don't list the actual sizes. Are these just to accommodate normal wear like .0005 - .002" The crank I have had the ceramic cleansing treatment, so the mains are in spec by measuring, but are lightly scorn & I don't know how much will be taken off if I have it cleaned up at the machine shop. for sure its going to take a few thousands I am guessing.

I called SBT yesterday & the person I talked to said they are all oem sizes which makes no sense based on the description. http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-main-bearing-kit-complete-4-tec-gtx-sc.html

What really interesting is the rod journals have no scoring whatsoever. Kind of weird unless somehow the ceramic sludge gets squeezed out by the mains as it passes into the crankshaft. I was just surprised to see that.

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[68ragtop]

I called SBT again yesterday & talked to another person who said the main bearing kit comes in .0001" increments. (not much) this would be fine for a polished, used crankshaft, but obviously not going to work on a scorn crank that needs .010" to clean up. SBT obviously gets these from a 3rd party, so there must me some mfg's out there making various sizes? I'm probably looking in the wrong places. I also tried the part number stamped on the oem bearings but that didn't reveal anything but a couple of BRP links.

 

[ski-d00]

Always surprised that SBT doesn't even know what they sell. The sizes are -.0005, -.0010, standard, +.0005, +.0010(at least that is what the sizes were from the last one that I bought a few years ago). The SBT bearings aren't really made for repairing cranks. They are made for slight variances in their manufacturing mostly for their own new cranks.

If you have a crank that only has a couple light circular scoring marks, it can be polished so there are no high spots and used. There are a lot of bearings that come with these circular grooves to promote oil flow around the bearing. Now if you have a crank that is all scored up or has longitudinal grooves or looked like it went through a grinder, in theory it can also be welded, ground, and polished but probably better off to get a new crank. I would talk to high performance automotive machine shops that specialize in crank welding, grinding and polishing.

 

[68ragtop]

I'll find a good used crank, less hassle & probably less money in the end. But speaking of money, I Bought this ski with the engine disassembled, now I just realized the ECU was swapped with a fried one from another machine. The head was also swapped & it has severe damage. bent valves (which I knew), but the casting was mishandled & ruined as well. Not the best day. It's hobby, but those are two very expensive parts. seller almost doubled his money & I officially way overpaid

 

[68ragtop]

Some updates:

Found a very nice oem crank & am going to order BRP bearings. The block I have is unfortunately just on the edge of spec limits both in size & out of round. There are also some score marks that not coming out, So I am going to use a 2002 Block I have. I looked both blocks over closely & I am only noticing a couple of differences between the two. One is the obvious oil restrictor valve in the 2002, I believe I just drill that out, so no big deal there. I am also noticing there is a hole in the 2006 block just above the CB shaft gear. Is this some sort of breather, or for oil if the scavenging pump isn't removing enough oil from the PTO side of the case? I really can't see a purpose for it otherwise, Thoughts? easy enough to drill a hole in the 2002 case if it's purposeful.

 

[ski-d00]

The hole is for ventilation for the newer style TOPS system and has to be there.

 

[68ragtop]

Easy enough to add the hole, thanks! So rather than a vent out, its venting the crankcase into the PTO side & escaping up the the cam install hole. Never would have thought of that...

Anything else I might be missing between them?

 

[68ragtop]

Should the oil squirters fit into the clearenced area of the pistons skirts? They are close, but as is they would not be effective at all for that purpose. I don't see any mention of this in the service manual, so I will guess its a coincidence the the notch is in the same corner, or am I missing something here

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[68ragtop]

One other thing I was trying to research. I have two CB shafts, the slightly better of the two is from a 2002 155 & the other is the 2006 215. From what I have found there is no discernable difference between them other than I noticed the 2002 has a plug in the shaft & the 2006 is a passthrough (where the oil pump drive slots are) I have read on the forum somewhere that they all interchange. is that true? no advantage or concerns from one to the other?