Change the oil, oil filter AND spark plugs (whether you think they need it or not!) every year under average usage (at end of boating season before winterizing or at beginning of boating season before 1st outting, your choice)... if you live on the water and use it every single day all summer long then you may need to change it more often, but few can put over 50 hours on 1 in a single boating season. Rebuild or replace the supercharger every 100 hours like clockwork (there is a guy named Jerry at GreenHulk who you can pull your supercharger and mail it to and he'll rebuild it for you if you buy the kit he supplies for a nominal fee, very much worth it and he's got fast turn-around I'm told!).
Finally, unless you store it in a climate controlled garage or storage area you need to be certain to winterize it before the 1st freeze of the winter season, then de-winterize it every spring after you're sure the last freeze has passed! Winterizing involves running antifreeze thru the jetpump and into the intercooler and exhaust system lines so that the water in them doesn't freeze and break things as well as "fogging" the cylinders with fogging-oil to protect them from corrosion during the winter months. Come back here and read posts in the Fall it'll be the primary thing everybody talks about then. Also when winterizing it is a good time to check the jet pump, pop the cone off the back and inspect for water intrusion and make sure there's plenty of marine grease in there things like that.
Also you might want to consider changing the antifreeze every 3 or 4 years... just like an automobile the engine coolant get's corrosive over time and needs to be replaced (some people do, some don't care and just ignore it.... your call if you want your engine to last or not!).
Was the supercharger replaced or was it merely rebuilt do you know? What people are concerned about is did the supercharger fail on this machine was that why the previous owner decided to get a new one? If the supercharger fails, it sheds parts down and into the engine case they can wreak havoc if the parts aren't cleaned out (which requires pulling the engine and splitting it apart to insure every last bit of metal is removed!). If parts are left lying loose inside the engine case they can pile up and block an oil intake screen and suddenly your engine starts to burn itsef up inside due to lack of oil pressure and the next thing you know your engine is toast! This is the concern therefore... you might want to ask the dealership what condition it was in mechanically when it was brought into them by the previous owner just so you know what to expect with it!
These machines are a blast when they're running right, but like any infernal machine they can have their downfalls. Keep reading posts on here, don't get spooked by things knowledge is power and the more you know the better! For instance, yours likely still has the hollow exhaust valve stems that have been known to snap off and destroy the cyclinders it's something you might want to look into like next winter; there's a tiny number stamped on the end of each stem the intake stems will all be stamped 72 and I believe if yours are original your exhaust stems will also be stamped 72 and that's bad it means they're hollow and they can break off (exhaust stems tend to corrode a little bit when the machine is in storage or not being used for awhile because of the residual water in the exhaust system, the corrosion can eat away at the thin hollow stem walls and then you go blasting across the water at WOT and a valve head breaks clean off and goes banging around inside the cyclinder destroying the head if not the entire engine fun stuff that!).
Finally, consider installing an auto-electric bilge pump they can save you from sinking the machine and they don't cost a lot and are pretty easy to install... literally an ounce of prevention is worth a few thousand dollars (the cost of a new engine possibly!) of cure here, and significant peace of mind! Yes there is a built-in water extraction system but it's low volume and only works while the engine is running it doesn't remove a drop of water if you're at anchor or tied to a dock getting lunch AND if the hull does fill with water the last thing you ever want to do is jump on and try to start the engine it can ingest water and lock itself up causing significant damage! People actually forget to put their bilge plugs in when launching, go to park their vehicle and come back to find their SeaDoo sinking... an automatic electric bilge pump will let you know instantly that there's water getting into the hull as you'll see it shooting water out the discharge port AND it buys you more time to rectify the situation!
You have much to learn my young Jedi apprentice! ;-)
- Michael
