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2005 Seadoo RXT 215 C-clip Issue

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Well got my rxt in the water today and went for a ride after a long time of it being out of service. Rode it at around idle speeds for a long while from idle to 4k reverse forward steering all working good. Drive though the canal about 18 minutes. Then come to the end post and ramp up get about 100 yds. And the ski got a huge vibration and started taking on water at n amazing rate thank god my dad was following me in our boat and towed me to the nearest ramp about 500 yds. Away got it on the ramp and waited for him to bring the trailer.... An hour later lol. Got it on the trailer and looked at where the water was dumping out of and stuck my hand in the ski and moved the steel ring back and forth on the drive shaft showing the c clip had come off. It seemed to go on really easy about a week earlier as I redid all of the propulsion system as this had happened before about 6 months ago and I have just gotten to it. Is there an upgrade to this problem or did I just do something wrong and this is a random occurrence as it seemed fine while I was idling and moving around just until I ramped up and the c clip came out and made an imbalance that caused the vib. And water leak.

Any help would be Greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Kurt
 
The C-clip is the upgrade. The O-ring is the old style. It should not go on "easy" per day. It should SNAP into place. Get another one and put s small amount of RTV on it. It will help keep it in place if it gets loose. But it should NOT get loose. Is the carbon ring worn? If so that would allow the collar to move more easily.


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The C-clip is the upgrade. The O-ring is the old style. It should not go on "easy" per day. It should SNAP into place. Get another one and put s small amount of RTV on it. It will help keep it in place if it gets loose. But it should NOT get loose. Is the carbon ring worn? If so that would allow the collar to move more easily.
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Thanks for the quick reply, everything was just replaced so just confused on the ease of putting it in there was a snap but not as hard to get on as I expected the carbon ring and bellows are brand new to fit everything in I stuck the new bellows in the vice overnight to help the install.
Thanks again,
Kurt

Ps is there anyway of dong it anyway other then the c clip like a locking collar or something like that or is the c clip the best way to go with a dab of rtv on it,
Thanks in advance.
 
Did you put the rubber bumpers on the drive shaft? If not, the shaft may float enough to slide past the collar allowing the snap ring to come off.


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Planekiller, I have some questions for you: There are some warnings in the manual that describe what happened to you if certain process steps aren't done correctly.

1. When you say "I redid all of the propulsion system" I assume you removed and reinstalled the drive shaft. If so, was the telltale groove visible when you finished installing the driveshaft?
2. Was the edge of the PTO seal flush with the seal support?
(I found that getting steps 1 & 2 done correctly was a pain in the you know what.)
3. When you removed the floating ring tool, was the c-clip visible or was it covered by the floating ring?
4. Joe has already asked about the bumper.
5. Is there any damage to the PTO housing?

All of these are critical steps as outlined in the '02 manual. I tried to pull the '05 manual, but PPG has changed their website, and I must say it's not for the better. Consequently, I'm not sure if there are any major differences between the '02 and the '05.
 
Not sure on the groove if it was a tell tale groove but there was a groove that I could see.
Was the ease of the PTO seal flush with the seal support... Yes it was if you are talking about the bearing and the floating seal attached to that bearing. If you are talking about the shaft going into the Pto then I wouldn't know as I had the bearing and seal attached before the shaft went in so that when I got a friend to slide it in all I had to do is focus on getting the steel ring in the right place.
Not sure about a rubber bumper or what it is. is this the cap that goes into the pto.
That I installed brand new Pto sounds fine didn't really open it and look just looked at the grooves and oring inside.
Also no I could not see the c clip and the carbon ring was firm against the steel ring.


Thanks again for all the assistance,
Kurt
 
Kurt, I found the manual for your ski; go to this link, download the manual, and go to page 214.


The floating ring is item 1 in the illustration; Item 8 is the bumper that Joe was talking about; it has to be on the driveshaft.

Page 220 show both correct and incorrect PTO seal installations; see page 221 for a better illustration. The picture on the right shows the driveshaft coming through the floating ring; you can see the bumper on the end of the driveshaft.

Where are you in FL? I'm in Pensacola, and I've got all the tools; you can borrow them if you are close.
 
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thanks I'll have a look in a little might take you up on that offer for tools I'll pay shipping... im a little south in punta gorda. But it'll be a while till I'm back in town with business and all. Tuesday I leave Florida for at least 6 months.

Thanks for the help,
Kurt
I'll let you know if I did install the bumper...
 
Yea, that's a 10 hr trip from Pcola. I found all the tools on ebay. Most shipped for free, and I paid less than 1 shop hour for all of them.
 
Ok thanks have a lot of the specialty one I like to work on things on my own don't like when others work on my things I take a sense of pride and feel like it has been done properly the first time...
Kurt
 
Oh, I forgot something, when you go to the web site, select your year and then click on the 4-Tec manual. Once the manual opens you'll need to select the propulsion system (Section 7) on the left side menu. Once that opens, select section 2 (Drive System). The page references I previously listed are not very useful unless you are in the proper section.
 
Oh, I forgot something, when you go to the web site, select your year and then click on the 4-Tec manual. Once the manual opens you'll need to select the propulsion system (Section 7) on the left side menu. Once that opens, select section 2 (Drive System). The page references I previously listed are not very useful unless you are in the proper section.


Ok, I'll go take a look now I have some time
Kurt
 
Ok took some time looking at the manual everything is installed correct tell tale groove is not visible and that is correct, the bumper I still don't see in there if you are referring to the one on the end of the shaft then yes it is installed and was replaced not reused... The c-clip depicted shows that it should go 3/4 around the shaft and from reading up should be a pain to get on and in turn off but ours went on easy and well it came off so guessing it came off easy. I'll replace the c clip with a new one next time I'm here in Florida and put some high torque RTV on the c-clip as advised... Hopefully stopping it from wanting to sink again...
Thanks for all the help I'll be I touch when I get back to fixing and testing it,
Kurt
 
So an update its been forever since I posted so I got all new parts to go in after my shaft tore its self apart on the last run so tomorrow is the big day for getting the c- clip onto the shaft wish me luck
-Kurt
 
New problem directly related to all of the problems from before... The engine mounts are bad so looks like I'm out for the winter here in FL. Things I'll have to do include fixing the mounts by lifting the engine... Fix my SC as it is leaking oil into the intake so not good there and putting everything back together again...
What a day
-Kurt
 
Pulled the intake and am waiting for my new mounts from Torx racing, they have been a pain in my a$$ its been 5 weeks since I ordered so I costa acted paypal after not getting much help from the people there, so looks like im just going to order the regular mounts and not the really nice racing mounts.
 
2. Was the edge of the PTO seal flush with the seal support?
(I found that getting steps 1 & 2 done correctly was a pain in the you know what.)

Just curious to know what would happen if this is not perfectly flush in the boot. Also...Would putting rtv sealant around it help anything if it's not perfectly flush?
 
Check out this picture. This is how the PTO seal should look on a properly installed drive shaft.

PTO Seal Good.JPG

If the seal isn't flush, it's possible the drive shaft isn't properly installed. If the seal is too far toward the stern, it may cover the tell tale grove in the drive shaft making you think you have installed the drive shaft properly. In that scenario, tapping the seal until it's flush with the outer circumference (like in the picture) may reveal the tell tale grove is visible. Running it like this may damage the seal, and you will probably experience an oil leak.

There is relative motion between the shaft and the seal, so RTV will not work
 
So replaced the mounts and everything is really tight, started and ran nice for 60 seconds, then the engine seized, unrelated problem but more to fix, I'm getting tired of this
 
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