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2005 Seadoo ISLANDIA wont start HELP PLZ!!!!

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Carlangas1989

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GUYS I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE..

I have a 2005 Seadoo Islandia i bought not to long ago, the boat fire up really good when i bought it, then one day i took it to the lake and it die on me so i pulled it to shore and after that it havent fire up again.....

I can sit there and crank it, and it sounds like it wants to fire...sometimes it fires fo a sec. and dies..:facepalm:

Am pretty good with engines i been working on all 2 stroke rotax engines but never with a merc...:lol:

Am Changing Spark Plugs today, check compression, fuel pressure, check spark, and if anyone has any idea please help i would like to see some feedback...!!

Can anyone tell me where is the air compressor for my fuel rail....

Mercury Optimax 250 M2
 
Carlangas1989 said:
.....

Am Changing Spark Plugs today, check compression, fuel pressure, check spark,......

Mercury Optimax 250 M2
Click to expand...


Well... before we get too deep... go down your list, and check all of it, and tell us what the readings are.


Your air compressor is directly under the top cover. It's belt driven.

Speaking of that... if the belt broke... the engine won't run.
 
Thanks for the reply.....Well my belt its not broke...but i will go home today and check everything .....do you know what my pressure on my rail supposed be? and air?

Also IDK What my air Compressor Looks like

Thanks
 
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Your fuel pressure should be 90 PSI and the air is 80 PSI (+- 2 psi)

The compressor is the other thing on your belt, that's not the alternator.
 
Thanks Dr. honda

I Checked fuel Pressure and it was 90psi...so i didnt check my air pressure thinking its good...(Correct me if am wrong)
I Checked Compression On the Engine And its 100...Idk if thats low for that engine normally rotax 2 stroke engines run around 145 150...so if anybody knows please let me know..
I Checked for spark and it shock me pretty good lol:cuss:
I put new spark plugs and it finally fire up like it should..

I Have a couple of questions more if yall dont mind helping me...

Is the pick up fuel system the same as the older model jeskis, or challenger boats...reason why am asking its because my gauge its not working and i know the pick up fuel deal its famous for blowing that little fuse inside the tube which i can repair...

Does anybody know what else should i Check on my boat before i start running it....like fuel filter...grease....maybe gear oil on the bottom bc i see the jet its driven by a gear box bellow the engine...Idk if its a gear box i know jetskis shafts are driven by the engine itself...


Thanks Yall always been a BIG help!!!
:cheers:
 
Is this boat new to you? Or are you working on it for someone? Just asking, because I didn't see it over in your signature.


Anyway... No... just because you have fuel pressure, does NOT mean you have air. I would still check it, just so you know. (even if it's running)

100 PSI seems very low for that engine. On the 2.5l engines... we like to see 135 psi. The 250 engine is a 3.0l engine... but I would still think it needs to be in the 125~135 range. But, let me dig into it.

Yes... the fuel pick-up should be the same as other seadoo's. SO... if it's not working... it's most likely the float or the fuse.
 
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Well I have lots of jet skis lol...thats probably why it don't show my boat..i bought the boat thinking it would be more readable than my old 1997 Seadoo Challenger 1800 ...but like I said I don't have any experience with the mercury engines....

Now that's sad about the compression on my boat. .you think it would be fine or you think I should go ahead and get that fix? I know when I put that boat in the water its gonna be a different story...the engine fires right up...and it idles at 1000 rpm

I haven't been able to find any parts for that engine so if you can guide me on the right direction I would appreciate it
 
As far as parts.... don't even talk to a seadoo dealer. They broke relations with Merc in 2004. So... the 2005 Islandia was the last with the Merc engine.

I buy parts from ebay or boats.net. Post up the serial number of your powerhead, and I'll link you back to the parts for that engine.


Since the new sparkplugs got you running... I would say to put it in the water, and see if it will run OK. I dug around a little this morning... and I couldn't find a solid answer on the compression on that engine... but the "250 Optimax outboard" should be in the 135~145 range. The sportjet engines are basically the same as the outboard engines. I have the service manuals for the sportjets... and they give the procedure for the compression check, and say they should be "With-in 15% each other"... but then they don't list the pressure.


As far as getting it fixed (if it's truly low) a shop will want to just swap the powerhead. That will cost you $7k to $10k !!!!!! But... you could pull the engine yourself... hone the Cyl's... and put in a fresh set of rings. If you don't find any other issues inside... it would only cost a couple hundred $$.
 
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OE424767 ENGINE
OE421745 PUMP

I fixed my fuel gauge problem...

I also would like to know why when it fires up it starts beeping? thanks
 
Thanks for the link,,,:thumbsup:

Now, when i fire my engine and let it run for a few sec. i get continuous beeps, so i turn the engine off..and if i let it the key on, it i will beep along when the low fuel light...so i press the light and it would turn off...2 3 min later it will beep again....my gas gauge shows 1/2 of tank..and my oil light its not on....also when it beeps with the engine on i dont get any lights what so ever

Now i was wondering my self if the temp sensor its bad? or maybe another sensor?


Dr. Honda it may be a stupid question...but each set of rings are really $170???:svengo:

Thanks again...
 
Carlangas1989 said:
Thanks for the link,,,:thumbsup:

Now, when i fire my engine and let it run for a few sec. i get continuous beeps,
Click to expand...


A continuous beep is "over temp." So... make sure the wires on your temp senders are clean and tight. Also... you may want to check them with a meter, to see if they are in range.

Carlangas1989 said:
Dr. Honda it may be a stupid question...but each set of rings are really $170???:svengo:

Thanks again...
Click to expand...

That should be $170 for all the rings. one set is for 6 pistons.

Carlangas1989 said:
On my temp sensors...do i have to have a NO or NC sensors?
Click to expand...

It's not that simple. The Merc temp senders are variable. So... if it's bad... it's going to meter out of range. Or... there will be a bad connection.

I don't know how hot it is around you... but at a typical summer temp... you should be reading 10K ohms (around 75 deg) to 6.5k ohms (around 95 deg)
 
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Thanks Dr.Honda...am glad they sell them as a set i was worry about it..:lol:

Now i live in Texas and right now its about 94F so i should get about 6.5 Kohms...i will check all sensors ...Thanks again !!!:cheers:
 
Ok i got some good and some bad news lol...

I Checked my temp sensors and they seem to be ok 7.5Kohms on both

Bad news: I was looking for a loose connection and i took the cover of from the intake and i opened the throttle and found a piece of reed inside....Could that be why my boat keeps beeping?

I got pic but i cant upload i get 404 error

You think i should take power head apart??

If yes how reliable are this engines? i see you have one dr honda..

Reason am asking its because i had hell with my old challenger 1800
 
Yes... those reeds should fit your engine.

The broken reed wont' cause it to beep... but it's not good. If you have the ability... I would pull that engine, and freshen it up now. A broken reed will cause running issues... and there could be a chance that there is a chunk of a reed in the engine. Also... since you were questionable on compression... if it was my boat... that engine would be coming apart.


The Merc engines are reliable... but they are high RPM 2-strokes. So... depending on how hard they are run... you will get 5 to 12 years on a power head.

My boat is a 2002, and I bought it with a blown engine. It came from a rental shop.. so I'm sure it saw a hard, 11 year life.
 
Ok what about rings....lets say that the bore size right now its standard..do i put standard rings or do i wanna go next size..??

Also on your opinion how does reeds look to you?

I also need to figure out why is it beeping maybe low compression?

At this point i would need rings, reeds, and a gasket set right??

Is there anything that i need to watch when i pull the engine out?

Thanks..It seems that this tread is not gonna be over any time soon!!:cheers:

I will be taking pic when i take the engine apart and maybe post them in case they come handy to someone
 
Carlangas1989 said:
1) Ok what about rings....lets say that the bore size right now its standard..do i put standard rings or do i wanna go next size..??

2) Also on your opinion how does reeds look to you?

3) I also need to figure out why is it beeping maybe low compression?

4) At this point i would need rings, reeds, and a gasket set right??

5) Is there anything that i need to watch when i pull the engine out?
Click to expand...

I added numbers to keep things in order:

1) If the bores are OK... then a quick hone, and stock sized rings are fine. If they are scratched or warn... then you will need to go bigger. BUT... you will need pistons too.

2) The picture you posted isn't great... but if you found them in the throttle body... something is VERY wrong. Please use a good camera (not a phone) and post them onto something like Photobucket so they can be uploaded at full resolution, and linked to this site.

3) A straight mechanical issue isn't causing the beeping. On your ECU, it detects a lot of different things, and will give you warnings. I'm thinking you have a bad sensor, and the ECU is telling you that. Unfortunately... without an engine scanner... you will have to check everything.

4) I would hold off buying anything until you strip down the engine. But yes... from what I'm seeing... at the min... you will need gaskets, and reeds. BUT... if you dig deep into the engine... you may want to buy a full "Rebuild" kit.

5) Nope... they come out pretty easy.
 
Ill use a camera next time lol..my phone was right in the moment:willy_nilly:

i will be striping the engine down this week...i will look on my shop manual for all sensors

As far as a rebuild kit..what all comes in it??
 
Carlangas1989 said:
.......

As far as a rebuild kit..what all comes in it??
Click to expand...


Some of the major seals, rod bearings, pistons, rings, wrist pins/bearings, clips. If you don't need to go over sized... then you can just buy new rings, and reuse most of your parts. BUT... we will also want to check the crank for rust scars.

Oh... and to your list of "What to buy"... you will want new rod bolts. The torque on them is strange. It's based on the bolt stretching. SO... if your bolts are already stretched, they may snap. So... there is no reason to worry about a failure for $40 worth of bolts. (p/n 94320)


Carlangas1989 said:
You been big help am gonna have to give you like 1000 thumbs up lol :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I try.
 
yea i ran to one of those bolt deals on a 951DI where the air compression piston goes....i decided that it was not important so i didn't change the bolt and next thing you know it snap on the second run :>....

I will keep yall update on this journey
 
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