2005 GTX Stalling

[davids]

I have just purchased a 2nd hand 2005 GTX with 64 hrs on clock.

Took it out first time this weekend and seemed to run fine for approx 1 hr but on its second run it would not idle and stalled seemed to have a problem restarting but after three of four goes it would start and stall again but I managed to ride it to the trailer.

I then took it out of the water and left it for mayne 10mins and then it cranked and ran fine.

I had my marine mechanic load tested the battery and it seems fine also tested voltage with multimeter and had 12.7v.

All we think of is maybe bad fuel as I believe the previous owner has not ridden ski for 8 months.

Any thoughts ?????

Thanks
David

 

[seadoosnipe]

Not a lot of questions on these newer models!

Wow, I just typed a nice post and when I hit the submit button, my computer frooze up!.............:ack:
In short, what I said was that from your post, there wasn't a lot of information. It sounds like you got back to the shore because the engine was in limp mode. Your description of the PWC starting after taking it out of the water makes me believe something has gone wrong in your cooling system (water jacket), like a blown head gasket or any other leak from your cooling system into your engine.
I looked at the manuals trouble shooting guide and some of the causes can be, defective idle bypass valve, wrong TPS zero setting, air lock in fuel system, water in intake system (which is what I think may be a cause), defective CAPS (cam position sensor)..........just to name a few.
The ECM and MPEM are the main players for your engine to make adjustments as needed for the changing engine conditions. If one of these sensors is bad, it's sending a bad signal causing an adjustment to the engine that's not needed, stalling or shutting you down. Or the sensor is sending a correct signal and its making the changes to keep you from doing further damage to your engine.
You should do a compression test. This will help detect a blown head gasket. There are way to many things that could have happened to cause this problem. After reading through your engine management section and trouble shooing guide, there is no doubt in my mind that you'll need a manual to try and resolve this problem yourself. We offer manuals for the premium members among other things. The cost is really cheap compared to the return of help and use of the manual library. With a manual, I can better assist you one on one to help you isolate and repair your problem. As long as it isn't a blown engine.
Like I said before, there are very few posts in here on this new a PWC, so my experience on trouble shooting yours is limited. But I have the resources and the know how to help you. In the manuals, this year model had the 2-cycle engine as well. So if your not running the 1503 4-TEC, then let me know what your engine is and I'll look at it again.

 

[davids]

Dont think blown head gasket....

Thanks for the help but I dont think it went into Limp mode just started and all of a sudden idled and ran ok back to to the trailer, I put the flusher kit on and thats when It ran fine out of the water.

Also forgot to mention that later that afternoon I put the ski back in the water and It ran fine and started at least 10 times so I dont think blown head gasket.

It seems to me to be battery related or fuel related but load test on battery was OK.

The engine is a 4 stroke with closed loop cooling and I removed plugs to see if any water in cylinder but plugs look good.

I will purchase manual to see if I can find any info.

Any other ideas based on the above info ???

Thanks for you promp response

 

[seadoosnipe]

Good deal!

Then that does narrow it down alot. Because there are so many sensors that send their input to the mpem, which in turn tells the ecm what to do, I'll bet it's probably just a sensor that's shorted out on you, or may be about to go bad. You don't say whether or not you checked the compression. Just for satisfaction, to give it a clean bill of health, that's the one single most important thing you can check. If the compression is good, then your problem has to be minor.
The electrical system could be a remote possibility. Only reason I say remote is from experience, the Rotax electrical systems are set up that you must have a certain voltage to even engage the electronics. If that or the charging system isn't meeting those demands set by the sensors, then it would shut you down, probably completly, with no limp mode. And you wouldn't be able to restart either. But to look at your charging system further, outside of load testing your battery, you should test your current being supplied back to your battery while the ski is running. It should be between 13.5 and 14 vdc. If your getting to much, then something can be wrong with your rectifier/regulator, not enough, then your magneto.
Also, though your water jacket is closed loop, you still use the open loop on the exhaust system, which if a gasket leak occurs, can put water into your engine like a blown head gasket. But I think the steam created would be a real tell-tell sign that thats what happened. And a lot less likely that it could occur.

 

[davids]

Charging rate OK

I have cheked the ski whilst running and it seems to be charging fine. Thanks for you input and FYI the ski still runs the water tuned exhaust system, which is supplied by the jet pump.
Do you know if an authorised Seadoo dealer can run a diagnosic check on the sensors? If so I will take for a test.
I will run compresion test and let you Know how it goes.
If compression is good do you think I should just keep using for now or take to dealer first.

Thanks for your advice. This Site is Great :hurray:

Regards

David

 

[seadoosnipe]

Ouch!

Just FYI, if it's not under warranty, then you'll be paying about $90 an hour in labor charges to trouble shoot the electricals, which could run into a good bit of change.
From what I've read today on your ski, if anything major happens, then your ECM and MPEM will either shut you down or put you in limp mode. This engine is one of the most protected through the sensor array I've ever seen. Even in your closed loop cooling system. If it gets hot, the sensor sends the signal to the mpem and then tells the ecm to take action.
So to answer your question, as long as the problem is intermittent and the electronics aren't stopping you from running it, then I don't think your in any immediate danger.
If you do no more than pay for one months membership so that you can dig into this manual and ask me or any of the other moderators for answers, if you stumble on something you don't understand, it would be worth it for you in the long run. With the manual, you'll be able to see where all these sensors are, what they do and how to test them. Along with many more facts that will better help you understand this engine.
I would point out, your engine is a very high tech engine and if your not mechanically inclined, you may want to leave the work to a qualified specialist. If you have a good concept of the internal combustion engine and how it works, then you'll probably be able to do most of the trouble shooting yourself. In so doing, you may find your problem and realize that you don't have the proper tools to fix it, but then at least if you have to take it to the dealer, you'll be able to tell him exactly what you want him to do!
BTW, they use what's called a MPEM programmer. It's kinda like taking your car to Autozone and having them come out and plug their OBD computer into your car and telling you what's going on. What ever is happening to your Doo, is being recorded in your MPEM. Forgot to tell you that little bit of info.