I bought a used 05 GTX SC and previous owner said to always pull the 30A fuse because they all drain the battery. Seems weird but I notice once I install the fuse, the oil separator coil clicks/pulls in every 10 sec or so, and never seems to stop (which I'm sure is/was draining the battery), though I'm not sure what happens when its running. I tried unplugging the TOPS sensor and it didn't change, but when I ohm the TOPS sensor, it doesn't read 35 ohm in "up" position, though it does read 10k when down--making me think its bad. Any thoughts if the two are related? The ski seems to run fine (pulls 7600 rpm) so for some reason, it doesn't think its rolled-over, which I thought is what the TOPS should do if reading 10k.
2005 GTX 185 SC Oil Separator Shutoff Coil
- Thread starter Hokiebob
- Start date
- Status
skiasylum
Well-Known Member
We just bought a 2005 GSX 600 limited “ski doo” this winter and the previous owner told us the same story. After some serious trouble shooting and research it turned out to be the Ducati regulator/rectifier. Their are diodes in the rectifier that fail and allow the battery power to go where it’s not suppose to. I am not sure if your 05 GTX shares the same regulator/rectifier as our ski doo but it is possible.
If you are measuring 12V on the tops solenoid when your engine is off, the problem is you have 12V there, not the solenoid itself.
They stopped making these solenoids. When they start acting up people such as myself remove the guts from the solenoid valve and run it without it.
This is OK to do as long as you do not flip it over.
The solenoid opens to recirculate the crank case vapors through the engine air intake duct. It is closed at all other times such as when you tip it over to prevent the engine oil from leaking into the air intake when the engine is upside down.
When it starts to malfunction it does not open when it is supposed to which can cause you to blow a gasket (which happened to my 2004 RXT). Therefore you remove the guts so it is always open.
There is a lot of information in the Seadoo Service Manual about how this operates and some diagnostic information as well.
Unless you are good at diagnosing electrical systems, the simplest solution may be wire a toggle switch in line with the fuse. Fuses are not made to be pulled on a regular basis so sooner or later you will damage the socket it plugs into.
They stopped making these solenoids. When they start acting up people such as myself remove the guts from the solenoid valve and run it without it.
This is OK to do as long as you do not flip it over.
The solenoid opens to recirculate the crank case vapors through the engine air intake duct. It is closed at all other times such as when you tip it over to prevent the engine oil from leaking into the air intake when the engine is upside down.
When it starts to malfunction it does not open when it is supposed to which can cause you to blow a gasket (which happened to my 2004 RXT). Therefore you remove the guts so it is always open.
There is a lot of information in the Seadoo Service Manual about how this operates and some diagnostic information as well.
Unless you are good at diagnosing electrical systems, the simplest solution may be wire a toggle switch in line with the fuse. Fuses are not made to be pulled on a regular basis so sooner or later you will damage the socket it plugs into.
Last edited:
Thanks-fully agree and understand. I believe the valve functions properly when engine is running but it clicks open/closed when off-regardless if DESS is on post or not-hence the battery drain. Maybe theres a bum ground? Aside from the tip-over TOPS sensor, its unclear what other inputs the solenoid 12v has, aside from running/not running.
- Status
Similar threads
