Oil pump cycles on and off with no lanyard on post until battery dies. When you put lanyard on post gauges activate it says sensor then flasjes check engine. Engine will nOt turn over and fuel pump does not engauge. Codes are lake temp only. Mechanic said mpem was bad but replaced and did not change anything. It had a blown 15 amp fuse but did not blow again after replacing. All fuses have power on the mpem at all times with or without lanyard on post.
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2004 seadoo gtx sc. Help
- Thread starter Mjacks24
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I had already turned over engine manually. Starter relay does not even click when you press start. Fuel pump does not pump. Only thing that works is gauges initializing and check engine with oil pump motor cycling on and off every 15 or 20 seconds.
mkov608
Active Member
MJ, problems with your post.
1. The oil pump is mechanical, so we (Forum Members) aren't sure what you are talking about when you say the oil pump is cycling. Are you referring to the fuel pump? Do you get two beeps when you put the lanyard on the D.E.S.S. post?
2. Do you know what codes are set in the ECU? "Lake Temp" is not a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
3. What troubleshooting did the mechanic perform to determine the MPEM was the problem? Don' t change any parts until proper fault isolation has been performed. The Sea-Doo service manual has great instructions for fault isolation. You can read or throw money at it ... your choice. Your service manual is available at seadoomanuals dot net. For example: here's a cut and paste from the manual about replacing the MPEM. "Before replacing a MPEM or ECM, always check electrical connections. Make sure that they are very tight and they make good contact and that they are corrosion-free. Particularly check MPEM and ECM ground connections. Ensure that contacts are good and clean. A defective module could possibly be repaired simply by unplugging and replugging the MPEM or ECM."
4. We need to know which fuse blew. There aren't any 15A fuses on an '04 MPEM, and the starter relay fuses are 30A. See pg 800 in the service manual.
5. Have the battery tested and let us know voltage and cold-cranking amps CCA.
6. Test the D.E.S.S. post and let us know if it's working properly.
7. What fault codes are stored in memory?
Let us know your findings.
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There is a electrical motor right beside the oil cap with two metal prongs on top that cycles on and off. Must not be oil pump sorry. I rechecked codes i am nOw getting two codes p1509 and p0231. New sympton is gauges are staying on even after pulling lanyard off the post. I do get two beeps then after check engine starts flashing it beeps like 4 times then 4 more and keeps doing it. I have a good hot battery pretty new in it
mkov608
Active Member
Gauges on when you pull the lanyard off the D.E.S.S. post is a sign of a possible bad post. See item 6 above. As for the battery, "good" and "hot" lack the technical details folks here need to help you. Report back with your findings. Remember, both of your starter relay fuses should be 30A according to the schematic in the manual.
Battery voltage is 12.47 volts with key off. 12.11 with key on amd i think tops pump cycling on and off (sorry i thought it was oil pump since it was beside oil cap). Still not sure why this is cycling with no key. I tested starter sylenoid is being sent signal to turn over. It is bad. Missing a pin from corrosion
Here is the hard part fuel pump fuse was not blown i tested between pins b-29 and 1-26 says i should get 1 ohm it shows open. I cannot get in to fuel pump itself to test directly to sending unit it says test pins a to d but the diagram labels them 1-4. 1 and 4 read 25meg or some high number if im even making good connection reaching in that hole.
Here is the hard part fuel pump fuse was not blown i tested between pins b-29 and 1-26 says i should get 1 ohm it shows open. I cannot get in to fuel pump itself to test directly to sending unit it says test pins a to d but the diagram labels them 1-4. 1 and 4 read 25meg or some high number if im even making good connection reaching in that hole.
mkov608
Active Member
Ok. It appears you have discovered page 413 in the service manual, but you have misread the instructions. B29 and 1-26 are the correct pins at the fuel pump. B-29 is the ground for the fuel pump (provided by the ECU). 1-26 is 12 VDC from the MPEM; you only have power with the lanyard on the post, and you only have it for 2 seconds unless you start the engine. However, you are supposed to check between B-29 and 1-26 for 12 VDC with the lanyard on the D.E.S.S. post; you are attempting to check for continuity.
So, here's what you have to do.
1. Set your meter to VDC, connect the red lead to the fuel pump wire connector (the harness side) Pin A (or 1), and connect the black lead to D (or 4). Put the lanyard on the post, and look for 12 VDC. Again, you will only get 12 VDC for 2 seconds. If you don't get 12 VDC, put the black lead on the engine block and try the test again. If it works, the wire between the pump and the ECU is open; fix the wire and retest. If It doesn't, go to the next step.
2. Check the wire between the fuel pump harness, Pin A (or 1) and the MPEM at pin 1-26. You should read less than 1 ohm. If you don't have continuity, that wire is open. Repair the wire and retest.
Let us know your results. You will need to repair the pin that's missing; let me know which harness connector and pin number it is.
So, here's what you have to do.
1. Set your meter to VDC, connect the red lead to the fuel pump wire connector (the harness side) Pin A (or 1), and connect the black lead to D (or 4). Put the lanyard on the post, and look for 12 VDC. Again, you will only get 12 VDC for 2 seconds. If you don't get 12 VDC, put the black lead on the engine block and try the test again. If it works, the wire between the pump and the ECU is open; fix the wire and retest. If It doesn't, go to the next step.
2. Check the wire between the fuel pump harness, Pin A (or 1) and the MPEM at pin 1-26. You should read less than 1 ohm. If you don't have continuity, that wire is open. Repair the wire and retest.
Let us know your results. You will need to repair the pin that's missing; let me know which harness connector and pin number it is.
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Ok so pin b29 to pin 4 i think is 1ohm. Pin 1 to mpem is 1 ohm. Voltage is constant across pin one and 4 with or without a lanyard on the post. Tops pump still cycling all the time. Gauges are pretty much just powering up as soon as i connect power to the battery. I do get a long beep when no key and the a double beep when i put the key on the post. But power is staying on
So i removed sending unit and fuel pump is open. So no starter amd fuel we have figured out. But the tops pump cycling without a key amd fuel pump voltage and ground staying active without a key i am still wondering about. Guess we will see if it will start when relay and pump show up.
Just an update so i should have pulled the plugs like you originally told me too motir turned over just enough to make me think it was clear. Tops pump was running due to intake and supercharger being slam full of water. Had a bad post making gauges turn back on with no key. Had a bad starter relay and a bad fuel pump. She is running now. Have a new problem i will post in a different thread
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